Webber help

[5.9northwest]

Im not a pro on these carbs, what i have is a Webber (not sure on the size) and for the life of me i cant get my motor to stay running. I pump the gas and it runs for a bit but then shuts down. The cab pumps gas into the motor but it doesn't stay running long. So can i get some help on this????

[5.9northwest]

here is some shot os the carb

[blind bat]

Looks like a fairly common DFEV kit. Although the one I had back in the day had a different style linkage. Has it run at all in recent history? If not, the carb is probably all gummed up inside. You'll want to buy a carb kit, tear it down clean all the passages with carb cleaner (WEAR SAFETY GLASSES) and reassemble. You may want to take pactures when you tear down the carb so you can get all the little bits back in the right spots.

Good luck. I don't recall liking the webber very much. It didn't run well out of the box and the intake would ice up pretty fast in the winter. A buddy had one on his convertible that was tuned by a carb specialist and only driven during the summer. His car always ran fantastic.

[5.9northwest]

ok, i did take the top of the carb off just to see inside of the bowl and it looked clean. maybe i'll just get me a rebuild kit. thanks...

How do i find out what kit i need or what size the carb is?

[Piledriver]

If it looks clean, pull the main jets (two, in bottom fuel bowl) and idle fuel jets (two, upper front and back of carb)
Clean with carb spray and blow out. Also pull and clean up the inlet valve the float operates.

Note these carbs need 3 PSI or less fuel pressure, 3 PSI is really pushing it.
Without manifold heat these carbs are a waste of time and money.

If you have the bits for manifold heat, ensure it's really working.

The choke power is right up against the fan housing on these, I like to attach a bit of hard plastic in between it and the fan shroud for some short circuit protection.

If the car is wired as it left the factory (no fuse) these will burn your car down reliably.

Adding an inline fuse highly suggested.

[5.9northwest]

If it looks clean, pull the main jets (two, in bottom fuel bowl) and idle fuel jets (two, upper front and back of carb)
Clean with carb spray and blow out. Also pull and clean up the inlet valve the float operates.

Note these carbs need 3 PSI or less fuel pressure, 3 PSI is really pushing it.
Without manifold heat these carbs are a waste of time and money.

If you have the bits for manifold heat, ensure it's really working.

The choke power is right up against the fan housing on these, I like to attach a bit of hard plastic in between it and the fan shroud for some short circuit protection.

If the car is wired as it left the factory (no fuse) these will burn your car down reliably.

Adding an inline fuse highly suggested.

good info... i pulled the jets and did just what you said.... the fuel pump is broke so i have a bottle with gas gravity feeding the carb and i now know why it didn't run long.... the motor would suck the bowl dry before the gas could refill. the manifold has the tubes hooked up to the exhaust so im assuming thats where it gets it heat from. the choke is hooked up to the + on the coil, i can and will hook up a fuse. im thinking of running an electric fuel pump...

[Piledriver]

Frequently folks will skip drilling out the header or install blockoff plates to prevent the heat risers from working for added "performance"

In reality it starts running like garbage unless it's always 100F where you live.

Once you get your fuel pump working, make sure those riser pipes get toasty fast.

[blind bat]

I remember an old timer laughing at the heat riser ports on my header type exhaust. (I had a bug spray manifold that would ice up worse than the webber). According to Mr. Old Guy, at best I'd have exhaust pulses fighting each other. In order to get good flow through the intake, one port needs to be connected to a low pressure part of the exhaust, like the collector. I seem to recall the stock pea shooter mufflers have one port connected internally to the main part of the muffler rather than the exhaust "manifold" port.

[Piledriver]

I remember an old timer laughing at the heat riser ports on my header type exhaust. (I had a bug spray manifold that would ice up worse than the webber). According to Mr. Old Guy, at best I'd have exhaust pulses fighting each other. In order to get good flow through the intake, one port needs to be connected to a low pressure part of the exhaust, like the collector. I seem to recall the stock pea shooter mufflers have one port connected internally to the main part of the muffler rather than the exhaust "manifold" port.

As the pulses are 180 degress out, the header heat risers will flow//work just fine as long as they are cleaned out properly.

Some of the later stock mufflers used the line to the muffler but I suspect that was as much for ease of installation as heat riser performance.