Weber 32/36

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greenbajamachine
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Weber 32/36

Post by greenbajamachine » Tue Feb 07, 2012 11:24 pm

I have a weber 32/36 progressive carb id like to put on a 1835 motor.

how good is this carb what jettings should i have. any info on this carb would be helpful thanks.

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Marc
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Re: Weber 32/36

Post by Marc » Tue Feb 07, 2012 11:41 pm


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Piledriver
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Re: Weber 32/36

Post by Piledriver » Tue Feb 07, 2012 11:49 pm

Dodge Omni TC3 (the swoopy Omnis) had an air cleaner for a progressive that is ~easy to mod for T4 use, cold/warm air feed etc.

I still much prefer Jake Raby's "solution" for the progressive carbs though :twisted:
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Re: Weber 32/36

Post by Marc » Wed Feb 08, 2012 12:26 am

If you don't have functional heatrisers on your intake manifold it's pretty much a lost cause (unless the car is quite light and/or only driven on warm days).
If you've got manifold heat and some form of warm air ducting to the aircleaner you may be able to get it to run well enough to live with year-round.

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 5&t=113626
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 34&t=54254
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=42824

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Re: Weber 32/36

Post by greenbajamachine » Wed Feb 08, 2012 12:42 am

I also have a holley 2110 bugspray would this be better than my weber. gas wise,power,performance

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Re: Weber 32/36

Post by Piledriver » Wed Feb 08, 2012 12:45 am

Any single carb will have icing/rich running issues unless you have manifold heat.
This is simply due to the way the manifolds have to be with a single carb and the engine layout.

Dual carbs--- ~ANY dual carb setup--- will work MUCH better.
Last edited by Piledriver on Wed Feb 08, 2012 12:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
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greenbajamachine
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Re: Weber 32/36

Post by greenbajamachine » Wed Feb 08, 2012 12:47 am

Had duals sold them. they had a lot of problems with me soo i decided to get rid of them.

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Re: Weber 32/36

Post by Marc » Wed Feb 08, 2012 1:08 am

Proggys have long been popular with the off-road crowd. Not that they work especially well there...they have no big float-level control issues and the lack of synchronization worries going for them, but in an open engine bay they're even more susceptible to icing/flatspot problems. The only explanation is that those people tend to have different (lower) standards for driveability.

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Re: Weber 32/36

Post by Piledriver » Wed Feb 08, 2012 1:15 am

At one point when I had hair, dual bug sprays were considered a hot setup.
I think they fit the same manifolds as Zenith 32NDIX.

I have no idea how Bugsprays work off road, but ANYTHING would be an improvement over the skeet target,...
...even dual progressives work well if you can find the manifolds CB used to make.
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Re: Weber 32/36

Post by Marc » Wed Feb 08, 2012 1:29 am

greenbajamachine wrote:I also have a holley 2110 bugspray would this be better than my weber. gas wise,power,performance
For an 1835? Either the 200 or 300CFM model would work but you MUST use a manifold with no plenum chamber (a small equalizing slot is OK) or it'll be an on/off switch with no low end - you cannot use a plenum manifold made for a 32NDIX. Rebuild kits are still around for them, but not as easy to find as those for the Weber. Still a centermount carb so it has the same preheat/warmair needs, too - read my last post here:

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 18&t=50536


EMPI has a rebuild kit for them, P/N 00-2238-0. If you find one that's been on the shelf collecting dust for 30 years it should cost about $12-15. Current retail is more like $35. The inner box has P/N 15553A from the actual manufacturer, which crosses to Echlin CRB 25532 at NAPA - ~$20 there.
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