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Piledriver, you ever considered marketing your design?
Hint!
Hint!

vwi_dduvall wrote:Piledriver, you ever considered marketing your design?
Hint!
Hint!

Its a hack that I threw together in a couple hours--- Works perfect, great for DIY but not really manufacturable.

You could probably duplicate it with hand tools and an off the shelf sensor.

I was even considering trying a cassette-tape playback or record head as a compact VR sensor just for giggles.

You have a PM.

Piledriver wrote:

vwi_dduvall wrote:Piledriver, you ever considered marketing your design?
Hint!
Hint!

Its a hack that I threw together in a couple hours--- Works perfect, great for DIY but not really manufacturable.

You could probably duplicate it with hand tools and an off the shelf sensor.

I was even considering trying a cassette-tape playback or record head as a compact VR sensor just for giggles.

You have a PM.

You truly do try interesting things.
An old cassette head would be nostalgic to say the least

Question from the uneducated.... Would you lock all advance out of distributor and would that cut down on the inherent timing wobble with vac/cent advance distributor?

Dale

Dale M. wrote:Question from the uneducated.... Would you lock all advance out of distributor and would that cut down on the inherent timing wobble with vac/cent advance distributor?

Dale

Yes.
The most likely thing that could give trouble is a damaged crank drive gear or skipping the drive spring, or have worn out cam thrust bearings.

All the other randomly moving bits with slop in the distributor get locked down or completely go in the trash.

Timing jitter is a significant issue say on a SBC as it drives the oil pump and distributor via the cam with an inherently somewhat sloppy chain. (many engine designs do this)

ACVWs are not built that way.

In my mind the biggest reason to go with this setup is it just drops in and you can set your base timing by simply twisting the distributor if you like.
Plus, its all far away from the dangers of a tossed fan belt or exhaust system heat.

It also works on a T3: Nothing else short of the dual wheel setup I used initially using the backside pressure plate bolt holes in the flywheel as a 6 tooth "crank wheel" is easily viable, and even then you'd have to drill a hole in the cases trans flange on a T3 case. (I did it on a T4 which has a nice access hole in the right place)

Question when wiring in the VR sensor to the Megasquirt is it best to use the MS3X pin 32 or the pin 26 on the MS3?
I have the relay board so it would be the tach VR connector for pin 26.

I'd have to go through the schemaitic to say which jumpers need set, but you want the mainboard tach in and use one of the mainboard amps per usual.

the ms3x input can only be used for cam on ms3.
(MS3x cam input can be routed to tach input on MS2 if using an MS2X adapter board, very useful if you have a pre-v3x mainboard)

Piledriver wrote:I'd have to go through the schemaitic to say which jumpers need set, but you want the mainboard tach in and use one of the mainboard amps per usual.

the ms3x input can only be used for cam on ms3.
(MS3x cam input can be routed to tach input on MS2 if using an MS2X adapter board, very useful if you have a pre-v3x main board)

Thanks I was wondering because the MS3X wiring diagram shows that its a Cam input/VR/hall/opto and the main board list as /hall/vr/tacho.

On a slightly different note I was wondering have a oil pressure sensor switch combo is it possible to have an oil pressure input that i could route to a gauge in the MS3? Just thinking mostly for use as a display on the Tuner studio or other.

vwi_dduvall wrote:

Piledriver wrote:I'd have to go through the schemaitic to say which jumpers need set, but you want the mainboard tach in and use one of the mainboard amps per usual.

the ms3x input can only be used for cam on ms3.
(MS3x cam input can be routed to tach input on MS2 if using an MS2X adapter board, very useful if you have a pre-v3x main board)

Thanks I was wondering because the MS3X wiring diagram shows that its a Cam input/VR/hall/opto and the main board list as /hall/vr/tacho.

On a slightly different note I was wondering have a oil pressure sensor switch combo is it possible to have an oil pressure input that i could route to a gauge in the MS3? Just thinking mostly for use as a display on the Tuner studio or other.

Yes, there is an oil pressure section under the Advanced Engine header. You just need to use one of your spare analog inputs, and purchase a 0-5v pressure sensor.

Chip Birks wrote:

vwi_dduvall wrote:

Piledriver wrote:I'd have to go through the schemaitic to say which jumpers need set, but you want the mainboard tach in and use one of the mainboard amps per usual.

the ms3x input can only be used for cam on ms3.
(MS3x cam input can be routed to tach input on MS2 if using an MS2X adapter board, very useful if you have a pre-v3x main board)

Thanks I was wondering because the MS3X wiring diagram shows that its a Cam input/VR/hall/opto and the main board list as /hall/vr/tacho.

On a slightly different note I was wondering have a oil pressure sensor switch combo is it possible to have an oil pressure input that i could route to a gauge in the MS3? Just thinking mostly for use as a display on the Tuner studio or other.

Yes, there is an oil pressure section under the Advanced Engine header. You just need to use one of your spare analog inputs, and purchase a 0-5v pressure sensor.

Hmm 0-5v O well I will add the extra wire for that matter might add a few extra. Was hoping to use the sensor I have in there its one of the VDO duel sensors (Lite/pressure) I assume it designed for 12v since its running the dish light.

Get rid of it. I let the ms control the light

Chip Birks wrote:Get rid of it. I let the ms control the light

That's probably what will happen but I first need to get this running again then tinker with additions.

vwi_dduvall wrote:

Chip Birks wrote:Get rid of it. I let the ms control the light

That's probably what will happen but I first need to get this running again then tinker with additions.

Agreed, but a 0-5v industrial sensor can be made accurate and even calibrated with the MS, the VDO isn't and cannot be.
I'm probably harder on VDO than they really deserve, but i've become largely unforgiving of crap in my old age.

Piledriver wrote:

vwi_dduvall wrote:

Chip Birks wrote:Get rid of it. I let the ms control the light

That's probably what will happen but I first need to get this running again then tinker with additions.

Agreed, but a 0-5v industrial sensor can be made accurate and even calibrated with the MS, the VDO isn't and cannot be.
I'm probably harder on VDO than they really deserve, but i've become largely unforgiving of crap in my old age.

Do you have a link to what you're talking about?

vwi_dduvall wrote:

Piledriver wrote:

vwi_dduvall wrote:

Chip Birks wrote:Get rid of it. I let the ms control the light

That's probably what will happen but I first need to get this running again then tinker with additions.

Agreed, but a 0-5v industrial sensor can be made accurate and even calibrated with the MS, the VDO isn't and cannot be.
I'm probably harder on VDO than they really deserve, but i've become largely unforgiving of crap in my old age.

Do you have a link to what you're talking about?

Example only: you will have to make sure it is exactly what you need as there are many flavors.
Search for "industrial pressure sensors" or transducers for thousands of choices.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honeywell-SPTMA ... 2338907687

You would want the "4v" (1-5v) version rather than the linked one, probably either 60 or 100psi.
These will rail at spec'd max reading pressure, but most will actually tolerate very high pressure, so you could (for example) run a 30psi rated and not be concerned cold start pressure would damage it. You might do this for better resolution.