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First, in the states we sometimes "melt magnetic flux" as you in England break biscuits.

Second, I too worked with those at the original ECU-332 project, I raced a Lola-332c F-5000.

That purpose was to educate them on the use of my 60-2 TW.

Today the "gear down" solution effects older engines when used with a modern EOM EMS.
The concept of an internal (inside the ECU) board mounted LASER counter connected with a light pipe to an
engine TW is another method to accurate measure crankshaft position.

THUS my above disclosure.

Lance

I'm leaning toward picking up a 48 or 60 tooth wheel to see how much CPU is uses (and the error% delta) vs 12-1 at distributor speed, assuming Mini sends me something to test

What am I supposed to send?

miniman82 wrote:What am I supposed to send?

Braaaaaaaaaaains....
I have to stop posting when dead tired, I meant to harass Mario.

Sorry, fresh out...

Steve A. has a 48-2 GDTW that should be used with a Hall sensor.

The diameter is about 2.75" though a bit large for a standard 009 body.

He also has the standard 24-1 designed to fit a 009 shaft.
He also has the VR Honda style pickup that fits inside a 009.

Lance

I wanted to log the CPU usage (mainloop time) delta between a 12 tooth gear down and a "proper" wheel with a divisible x4 count wheel.
(based on Redline Webers comments)

12 tooth gear down is 6 tooth at the crank speed, so not divisible by cylinder count, perhaps an issue, perhaps not, I ran 6/1 for ages and only changed it to try other setups

I'm currently running a 36-2, so I guess if all else fails I can set my 6/1 setup back up for a comparison.
(or find a suitable 12 tooth steel wheel, my sensor can "see" 32 pitch just fine with a filled tooth, so that should be relatively cheap and easy)

This pic was posted to Powerhaus VW's facebook page. Looks pretty sweet for a drop in solution to triggering.

I was over his shop Saturday when he was putting that motor together

spring is finally here and I've had a few drives with the new ignition and 12-1 optical cam trigger. I am very pleased with the performance while driving. one thing that is annoying is my cranking time is very long from what it was on a distributor. is there a setting I can change to help it fire up quicker? or is this possible a symptom of the cam speed signal?

I think it may be "Skip pulses" under ignition settings.

Max

I actually set mine up now so it cranks for ~2 seconds to build oil pressure.
(priming delay)

It can be set to run batch/wasted spark when cranking for faster fire-off.
You may have to tweak fuel some for this to work well.
(I later went back to the longer crank to build pressure)

I think I figured out what is going on. as I've been driving it more it is only slow to start when hot. today it fired right up in the morning but it would crank and crank once hot. I noticed the tach was just kinda bumping and not showing any RPM, then a tiny dim light bulb went off in my head the resistors in the harness for the cam sensor are hotter so the voltage signal will be lower. I popped off the cover to my MS2 and turned the pot back about 1/4 turn and it fired right up. I'll try setting up the VR signal when hot and see if that is the fix.

does timing for idle and crank speed effect hot vs cold starting?

juki48 wrote:I think I figured out what is going on. as I've been driving it more it is only slow to start when hot. today it fired right up in the morning but it would crank and crank once hot. I noticed the tach was just kinda bumping and not showing any RPM, then a tiny dim light bulb went off in my head the resistors in the harness for the cam sensor are hotter so the voltage signal will be lower. I popped off the cover to my MS2 and turned the pot back about 1/4 turn and it fired right up. I'll try setting up the VR signal when hot and see if that is the fix.

I'm still having some issues with starting. I want to move my discussions to my wasted spark conversion topic so I don't fill this one up with my issues. viewtopic.php?f=66&t=144696&p=1189482#p1189482