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MarioVelotta wrote:Another option,

1493125_10202817226333778_1970179227_n.jpg

Oh yes, the option for the type 3 guys! I like that.

MarioVelotta wrote:Another option,

1493125_10202817226333778_1970179227_n.jpg

Yessssssss...

Not just T3 folks, that's a sexy stand-alone all in one setup allowing sequential...

if you can set them for a precise 50% duty cycle, you can trigger on both edges of each tooth and double the resolution.
(probably not required)
If you can drill a hole in the board behind your sensor to place the magnet i suspect it may work as a geartooth sensor.
...not 100% certain of the part# you are using as I haven't tried that hard, and lack the itty-bitty spare magnet... the 8tooth stamped washers don't work, possibly due to lack of proper magnet

I would look at putting a varistor in the system to soak up spikes, but it seems to work electrically just fine.

Piledriver wrote:I would look at putting a varistor in the system to soak up spikes, but it seems to work electrically just fine.

Do you have the basic model working in your car then

MarioVelotta wrote:

Piledriver wrote:I would look at putting a varistor in the system to soak up spikes, but it seems to work electrically just fine.

Do you have the basic model working in your car then

Just tried it hooked up on the bench, I need to put the 36-1 wheel setup back on to try it in the car.

I have been running the 16-1 distributor wheel in the Mallory.

Tomorrow I get time to work on the car.

Set it with the wire pointing straight back on the sync, popped the prototype 36-1 setup back on, set TS as it should be and it fired right off and idled, timing only ~3 degrees off.

You should consider a jackscrew as an internal clamp, allowing complete omission of the external clamp, very sano.

I have a little noise issue on the main wheel with my oddball VR amp setup, but the cam sync is as clean as a whistle.
(cam going into the MS3X)

I'm really looking forward to the missing tooth version, that is the ultimate setup as far as I am concerned.

I have some pics but my Iphone cable is MIA and the mailserver doesn't like pictures.
(Work supplied phone, I would never buy one of them, the ~only thing I like is the camera and it makes for a very good MP3 player, esp paired with $6 ReTrak headphones, bought them as they are retractable like the ReTrak cables, but they actually sound ~awesome)

Piledriver wrote:Set it with the wire pointing straight back on the sync, popped the prototype 36-1 setup back on, set TS as it should be and it fired right off and idled, timing only ~3 degrees off.

You should consider a jackscrew as an internal clamp, allowing complete omission of the external clamp, very sano.

I have a little noise issue on the main wheel with my oddball VR amp setup, but the cam sync is as clean as a whistle.
(cam going into the MS3X)

I'm really looking forward to the missing tooth version, that is the ultimate setup as far as I am concerned.

Great news! That 3 degrees should be main wheel though as the sync is just a reference?

I've already got Chip asking about the missing tooth version as well, he want's to use it in his pops car. I'll start doing some more mock up in cad to make the new sensor fit. I can do a 50/50 trigger wheel as well so it would save me a SKU if I get it ti fit. But I alsohave a couple other thing to work out as well.

The Jack screw is a very interesting though, I just don't know how I could implement it while keeping everything sealed up in the final product. I'm also not 100% right now... Just got done tossing a few back at dinner I'll revisit the though tomorrow

The sync just flags the next tooth on the main wheel is #1, recall my prototype wheels were a tiny bit off.
If figured 3 degrees was great setting things up from memory. (couldn't find the thread for the instructions)

MarioVelotta wrote: I've already got Chip asking about the missing tooth version as well, he want's to use it in his pops car. I'll start doing some more mock up in cad to make the new sensor fit. I can do a 50/50 trigger wheel as well so it would save me a SKU if I get it ti fit.

Here's a pic of the beast plugged in. the oring fits so tight and there's no drag, i just lined it up and jammed it in, no clamp yet, looking for a spare clamp.

If I was going to run this setup permanently I'd add another hole to pass the crank sensor cable through the tin.

Belatedly realized I should have hit the car wash.

Piledriver wrote: Belatedly realized I should have hit the car wash.

Don't worry Pile....it's not show season right now......

Piledriver wrote:The sync just flags the next tooth on the main wheel is #1, recall my prototype wheels were a tiny bit off.
If figured 3 degrees was great setting things up from memory. (couldn't find the thread for the instructions)

That's right, that one was a little off. I didn't think you where going to use that one because of your A/C.

Piledriver wrote:Here's a pic of the beast plugged in. the oring fits so tight and there's no drag, i just lined it up and jammed it in, no clamp yet, looking for a spare clamp.

If I was going to run this setup permanently I'd add another hole to pass the crank sensor cable through the tin.

Belatedly realized I should have hit the car wash.

The O-ring pocket has already been shrunk down so it isn't SO tight. When I pushed it into my block I knew that would have to be addressed.

And no show car necessary

It may be wise to duplicate the Mallory oring groove---

Getting something as simple as a proper distributor seal for a VW is a mail order thing for ~anyone not in Socal or other VW heavy locales (or requires buying a complete T1 seal kit), orings can be had anywhere, usually cheap.

I am going to need one of these + crank trigger when I start converting my 914 engine to whatever standalone system I end up using (VEMS, Nira or MaxxEcu are the ones I'm chosing from atm)

Very nice work!

Figured out that the Allegro '667 sensor does not like a (negative) missing tooth at all (it only sees the missing tooth and wants to average the rest), but works great when you fill it in with weld. Must be something to do with the AGC circuit.

falcor wrote:I am going to need one of these + crank trigger when I start converting my 914 engine to whatever standalone system I end up using (VEMS, Nira or MaxxEcu are the ones I'm chosing from atm)

Very nice work!

I'm hurrying!

And thank you! And Thanks to Pile for getting some good mileage on one for us