brake warning light

[jdog]

where can i get the little brake warning light in the dash for a 1969 beetle or is it something i can put in there to replace it that will work

[Dale M.]

The LAMP circuit is basically nothing more then a pilot lamp.... One side grounded one side to brake light switch circuit..... Off the hook pilot lamp assembly from FLAPS will work....

BUT you warning lamp assembly may also contain switch assembly for Emergency 4 Way Flashers...

If you want OEM unit you might try here...

http://www.westcoastmetric.com

Dale

[Speedy Jim]

Go:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... ?id=883832



Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

[jdog]

Thanks

[GK73]

Hi all,
I'm having a problem where neither may hazards or brake light are working. Would i need to replace both switches or start w the brake light assembly and see how that effects the hazard?

Thank you,
G

[Marc]

Hi all,
I'm having a problem where neither may hazards or brake light are working. Would i need to replace both switches or start w the brake light assembly and see how that effects the hazard?

Thank you,
G

Assuming this isn't an old Bus, the brakelamps and turn signals only work when the ignition is on but the hazards are enabled at all times, so it's unlikely that there is one single problem affecting both features. There have been some variations on the hazard flasher system over the years - I believe that you have a `73 Karmann-Ghia, which uses the same setup as the `72...you'll find the "semi-pictorial" layout of the `72 wiring diagram to be much easier to follow than the "current-track" style diagram that debuted for `73.

http://www.vintagebus.com/wiring/Karman ... 1971-1.jpg

[Marc]

The LAMP circuit is basically nothing more then a pilot lamp.... One side grounded one side to brake light switch circuit..... Off the hook pilot lamp assembly from FLAPS will work....

The warning lamp assembly used from `68-`71 is considerably more complicated than a mere light bulb - it contains switch contacts and a blocking diode (to keep it from sending power to the brakelamps when pressed). Starting in `72 it became even more complicated in order to conform with new US regs which required a "self-prove-out" feature (no need to push-to-test the bulb).

On `68 and early `69 cars, there was a dedicated mechanical switch mounted on the side of the master cylinder - an hourglass-shaped shuttle piston in an auxiliary passage of the M/C would depress the probe of the switch if there was a hydraulic imbalance between the front and rear circuits. That type of master cylinder has been obsolete for decades.

Late `69 and newer cars use a different setup where the two hydraulic brakelight switches are double-throw (three-prong) and through clever wiring power will backfeed through an idle switch to the warning lamp if only one circuit develops pressure. When this type of M/C is used as a service replacement on an early car, the wiring at the switches must be rearranged in order to retain warning lamp functionality. If you'll go to Speedy Jim's site and check out his explanation of the systems, you'll see what I mean. http://www.speedyjim.net/htm/elec.htm

With either the push-to-test or the self-testing style that's wired into the charging system warning light circuit, the only thing that's "tested" is the light bulb itself and some of the wiring. IMO it's a stupid feature that's only necessary due to a silly NHTSA requirement - if you need a light on the dash to tell you that only half your brakes are working, you should probably turn in your driver's license and get a bus pass.