Will my rotor and cap handle my new coil - Mallory Notes

Every car has an electrical system. Here's the place to learn all about it.
sagaboy
Posts: 1303
Joined: Mon Sep 13, 2004 12:04 am

Post by sagaboy »

Scott Novak....
Can you tell us what cause the copper terminal inside the cap especially at the point where the rotor swipe pass to form a layer of greenish coating and this coating can even swell up as much as 1mm

PS... you are right... the resistorless rotor I have is not by Bosch, but I can faintly see a VW and beside it 4 Audi logo ring.
Scott Novak
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Joined: Mon Nov 08, 2004 1:31 pm

Post by Scott Novak »

sagaboy wrote:Can you tell us what cause the copper terminal inside the cap especially at the point where the rotor swipe pass to form a layer of greenish coating and this coating can even swell up as much as 1mm.
It's copper oxide. Scrape off the build up and don't worry about it.

Do you have the part number for the resistorless rotor?

Scott Novak
sagaboy
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Joined: Mon Sep 13, 2004 12:04 am

Post by sagaboy »

Will examine it again closely and see if the number is readable.
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raygreenwood
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Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am

Post by raygreenwood »

Great info!.
The rotor line-up photo also is a good illustration. You are spot on about the narrower rotor tip allowing easier spark in a weak system.

The same concept holds true for spark plugs. There are numerous spark plugs out there that are what I would call "functioning gimmicks".

That meaning...plugs that take advantage of teh same concept as a small rotor point.

The concept behind this is sound...for the same reason that lightning rods have points. It is easier for current to "saturate" a very fine and small volume/surface area piece of metal.....to ionization point (the point at which spark arcs).

Example of these functioning gimmic plugs are The original Bosch platiums...and allsubsequent very small center electrode plugs...and the split fire plugs.

The splitfire...has a forked ground electrode with sharp points. What it does is arc easier with less current saturation. It masks weak components in old systems....by simply not making the system work so hard to spark. It works...but is simply masking the symptom.

The Bosck platinum was much the same. It used a fine pointy electrode with much less resistive platiunm...at the tip only. The main core inside the ceramic was still copper or nickle.

What both of these types of plugs do is make an easier spark in a weak system...but those sparks tend to be very small because of the electrode size.

At some point you end up with the same problem yo uhave in installing stereo wires to small in gauge for teh power level..and not being able to push current through the cable without resistance.

A better coil or a fully functional ignition system paired with a platinum or splitfire will show no real benefit....as compared to the easily seen benefit that moving from say...a large nickle copper center electrode plug to a platinum skinny electrode....will show.
The spark can get hotter.....when installing a platinum on a non-weak system....as seen by the spark color going from pink to blue...but it will not get much bigger.

You can see the same opposite function when installing a plug with high current demand like a Bosch W7DTP....triple electrode. If anything is weak or over-resistored in your system...this type of plug reall y does not do well. Get a serious coil or electronic system and good wires...and these plugs produce huge, hot and very dependable sparks. Ray
sagaboy
Posts: 1303
Joined: Mon Sep 13, 2004 12:04 am

Post by sagaboy »

Scott Novak, the information you have provided is so easy to apply and cost so little to leverage such impressive improvement in engine power, responsiveness and smoothness that driving my stock 1500 bug is totally a different experience.

Yes, there is a vast difference in setting the plug gap from 0.038 and 0.04

At 0.40 I get further improved engine power responsiveness, smoother
more silent idling, exhaust that sound different while idling and driving.
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