FORD Starter Solenoids - Upgrade/Conversion
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david58
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FORD Starter Solenoids - Upgrade/Conversion
No one has mentioned the Ford Starter Solenoid upgrade so far if so I missed it. I plan on using one on my Baja for a couple reasons. The first one is easy excess to start the car if I lose the key out in the middle of nowhere. The second reason is the simple fact that I am getting to old to crawl under it when I can stand up and see what I am doing without getting dirt in my eyes. Seriously it has pro’s and con’s like everything else. I try to look on the plus side. Mine will be mounted very accessibly for my own convinces. Close to the starter and battery as possible, I know it will be easy to hot wire, which is a draw back seriously though if someone wants to hot wire a car you can’t stop them. Finally if the Ford type solenoid fails you can still make the starter work pretty easily, and do a lot of tests without having to climb in and find the battery or the OEM stater soleniod.
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
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Marc
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I prefer a Bosch relay, they draw less current than the Ford type and use all slip-on connectors. Principle's the same, installation is similar:
http://www.glenn-ring.com/tech/relay_starter.htm
My first choice remains to isolate and repair the real source of the problem, but on some cars (6V, buses, etc.) that could develop into a major project, while the addition of a relay is a quick "fix".
http://www.glenn-ring.com/tech/relay_starter.htm
My first choice remains to isolate and repair the real source of the problem, but on some cars (6V, buses, etc.) that could develop into a major project, while the addition of a relay is a quick "fix".
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david58
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I am not saying your post isn't a good idea, but it still uses the OEM soleniod. Am I correct or wrong on that point? My reasoning for using the Ford Type soleniod was so the OEM soleniod could be by-passed.Marc wrote:I prefer a Bosch relay, they draw less current than the Ford type and use all slip-on connectors. Principle's the same, installation is similar:
http://www.glenn-ring.com/tech/relay_starter.htm
My first choice remains to isolate and repair the real source of the problem, but on some cars (6V, buses, etc.) that could develop into a major project, while the addition of a relay is a quick "fix".
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
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Speedy Jim
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- Joined: Sat Feb 15, 2003 12:01 am
You can't simply bypass the existing solenoid.
Unlike the Fords of yesteryear, the VW starter doesn't have
a "Bendix" to "throw" the gear out into the flywheel.
The motion is performed by the solenoid in addition to
closing the battery circuit contacts.
Dragenwagen has some nice explanations (with pics) here:
http://www.ramva.org/dragenwagen/starter.html
Unlike the Fords of yesteryear, the VW starter doesn't have
a "Bendix" to "throw" the gear out into the flywheel.
The motion is performed by the solenoid in addition to
closing the battery circuit contacts.
Dragenwagen has some nice explanations (with pics) here:
http://www.ramva.org/dragenwagen/starter.html
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david58
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The above solenoid can be rewired into the system so a OEM starter solenoid doesn’t get it’s excitement to the Start terminal any more per say, but gets it to the BATTERY terminal on the solenoid. Which bypasses the OEM solenoid. The POSITIVE cable goes to the Ford TYPE solenoid first it should connect to the big terminal on the right side in the picture, then the wire that went to the START side on the OEM solenoid goes to the S terminal on the Ford Solenoid, then the left side starter cable is connected between the Ford Type Solenoid and the starter.
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
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Marc
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I can't seem to follow your description...but if you in fact leave the stock solenoid completely out of the picture, it'll make the starter motor spin OK but there'll be nothing to pull the pinion into engagement with the flywheel - as Speedy Jim explained, that's a secondary function of the VW solenoid, performed by a mechanical linkage between the solenoid plunger and the pinion gear:
To actually start the car you'd have to also apply power to Term 50 on the stock solenoid so it could pull the pinion gear into position...if the problem with the stock solenoid were high contact resistance I can see where there could be something to gain by adding a Ford solenoid to take over the motor current, but it's FAR more common for the problem with the VW solenoid to be a failure to actuate at all - and adding the extra current draw of the Ford solenoid to the 50 circuit would make that even more likely to be a problem.
To actually start the car you'd have to also apply power to Term 50 on the stock solenoid so it could pull the pinion gear into position...if the problem with the stock solenoid were high contact resistance I can see where there could be something to gain by adding a Ford solenoid to take over the motor current, but it's FAR more common for the problem with the VW solenoid to be a failure to actuate at all - and adding the extra current draw of the Ford solenoid to the 50 circuit would make that even more likely to be a problem.