I'm excited to see this come together TOOF. Definitely off the "main stream" style build path.
To offset the higher CG of the Bug, you might consider sectioning the body, removing a couple of inches from the bottom, lowering the whole thing down. I once saw a Baja pickup that this was done to and it looked bad to the bone! At first I couldn't figure out what had happened, it was definitely lowered with the suspension, but the roof top was still much lower than normal, but the roof itself and windows looked normal. It had to have been sectioned. Wide Fuchs and low profile rubber, wide-eye front end and a trick pick-up bed fitted and big Weber motor sticking up out of it. That image was seared into my mind!
It'll be interesting to see how you flesh it out.
Jeff
Front Suspension Frankensteins?
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TOOF
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Tue Jun 28, 2016 12:34 pm
Re: Front Suspension Frankensteins?
That sounds like SEMA level build! When you watch this one come along, think "Rat Rod".GS guy wrote:I'm excited to see this come together TOOF. Definitely off the "main stream" style build path.
To offset the higher CG of the Bug, you might consider sectioning the body, removing a couple of inches from the bottom, lowering the whole thing down. I once saw a Baja pickup that this was done to and it looked bad to the bone! At first I couldn't figure out what had happened, it was definitely lowered with the suspension, but the roof top was still much lower than normal, but the roof itself and windows looked normal. It had to have been sectioned. Wide Fuchs and low profile rubber, wide-eye front end and a trick pick-up bed fitted and big Weber motor sticking up out of it. That image was seared into my mind!
It'll be interesting to see how you flesh it out.
Jeff
Tomorrow I am removing the front subframe and some sheetmetal that I may want to keep for the build.
Next, I'm making an alignment jig so I can mock the subframe up in relation to the rear IRS tube. I ran out of 2" angle iron so Ill have to get some this week after work.
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TOOF
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Tue Jun 28, 2016 12:34 pm
Re: Front Suspension Frankensteins?
Took a bunch of measurements then cut the front clip off off the miata. I did this kind of hastily since I needed to get the miata out of my driveway before HOA catches wind. Since I was in a rush I kept a ton of the supporting metal.
Also cut the front head off the bug.
You can tell from the pic that it doesn't quite "bolt-in".
Once I get this cabinet project finished in the laundry room I'll have more space and can make the positioning jigs.
Also cut the front head off the bug.
You can tell from the pic that it doesn't quite "bolt-in".
Once I get this cabinet project finished in the laundry room I'll have more space and can make the positioning jigs.
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ChadH
- Posts: 254
- Joined: Wed Mar 30, 2016 4:55 pm
Re: Front Suspension Frankensteins?
Keep posting pictures and progress. I'm glad to see this actually happening, and we need more activity here. This looks like it can turn into a cool build.
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TOOF
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Tue Jun 28, 2016 12:34 pm
Re: Front Suspension Frankensteins?
Wills do! Its going a little slow since I'm teaching my nephew some basic metal working skills but its a lot of having him around.ChadH wrote:Keep posting pictures and progress. I'm glad to see this actually happening, and we need more activity here. This looks like it can turn into a cool build.
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ProctorSilex
- Posts: 228
- Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:09 pm
Re: Front Suspension Frankensteins?
As for the spring rates, you can get coilover sleeves for less than $100 or so.
cheap miata coilover info here. Take a look at the first page then start from the end to find the latest recommendations. You then have access to tons of cheap and expensive springs in addition to ride height adjustments. For racing, especially on the cheap, you will likely find that the stock front spring RATES are good for you when you don't have an engine on it. The problem would be the ride height. If you're really cheap, cut the stock springs. The Miata springs are rather soft for a sports car. The consensus of "experts" both armchair and businesses alike (such as FCM and 949 Racing) is that Mazda designed the Miata to ride on the bumpstops for performance. It is suboptimal, of course, but good for a fun street car. Speaking of which, you will likely want to cut or replace the bumpstops because you will get better handling at the racing limit if you can keep the car off them.
You will probably get better results if you ditch the anti sway bar whatever you do with springs. I went to a stiffer front bar in my 2002. Now that I have been increasing spring rates, I would like to consider going back to stock, nothing, or maybe a less stiff one (if I had the time). If your springs are stiff enough in the Miata, then it will handle better if you make the wheels independent by removing the bar.
If you can make the width match without changing steering rack placement and tie rod lengths, then you will have a good front end. I do not know the camber characteristics of the Pinto et al mentioned here but I do know that the Miata has very good characteristics.
Even the weakest stock brakes of the NA/NB Miatas should be great on a race VW. I use G-Loc pads now with cheap rotors.
VIR with my 2002 on 616#F/448#R (11kg/8kg). The Bilsteins were revalved by FCM for 500/375.
You're treading in crazy realms though I can probably answer any parts specific questions you might have.
cheap miata coilover info here. Take a look at the first page then start from the end to find the latest recommendations. You then have access to tons of cheap and expensive springs in addition to ride height adjustments. For racing, especially on the cheap, you will likely find that the stock front spring RATES are good for you when you don't have an engine on it. The problem would be the ride height. If you're really cheap, cut the stock springs. The Miata springs are rather soft for a sports car. The consensus of "experts" both armchair and businesses alike (such as FCM and 949 Racing) is that Mazda designed the Miata to ride on the bumpstops for performance. It is suboptimal, of course, but good for a fun street car. Speaking of which, you will likely want to cut or replace the bumpstops because you will get better handling at the racing limit if you can keep the car off them.
You will probably get better results if you ditch the anti sway bar whatever you do with springs. I went to a stiffer front bar in my 2002. Now that I have been increasing spring rates, I would like to consider going back to stock, nothing, or maybe a less stiff one (if I had the time). If your springs are stiff enough in the Miata, then it will handle better if you make the wheels independent by removing the bar.
If you can make the width match without changing steering rack placement and tie rod lengths, then you will have a good front end. I do not know the camber characteristics of the Pinto et al mentioned here but I do know that the Miata has very good characteristics.
Even the weakest stock brakes of the NA/NB Miatas should be great on a race VW. I use G-Loc pads now with cheap rotors.
VIR with my 2002 on 616#F/448#R (11kg/8kg). The Bilsteins were revalved by FCM for 500/375.
You're treading in crazy realms though I can probably answer any parts specific questions you might have.