Suspension/chassis fab/setup tools?

[Piledriver]

What tools are folks using for setting up suspensions/chassis building?

Can be for alignment, fabrication or whatever.

This just occurred to me as I'm looking at various digital levels and protractors to aid fabbing some tubular 2" front spindles for my 914 (and on a 928-style rear axle for same), likely at 30-45mm raised spindle while at it, using Boge struts.
My idea has the factory spindle forging staying in stock location (sans stock spindle)

Also linking this into the off road forum as they seems to do a lot of custom work.

Related thread in off-road forum:
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 8&t=145876

[Dale M.]

I have a 24 inch digital lever which for most part is to long (was not purchases for auto fab work).... And a stupid inaccurate magnetic base angle finder.... Think best tool going would be a digital angle finder with at least 2 digits after decimal point.... Was looking at them a while back and the is a plethora of them under $50....

For "level" something like this one, but its too long for some workings...



If I had to choose only one for angle finder, this is all one needs (note accuracy after the decimal point).......



These suck... But will work if you do not care about percentage of accuracy...



That and a really good "level" build table and some "decent" measuring tools (steel rules) should all you need...

Go to GOOGLE "IMAGES" and search "digital level" or "digital angle finder" or "height gauge" to see images of whats out there, then chase them down to their website....

And maybe one of these ... Depending on your build table....



Maybe just one of these... Would do it all....



Dale

[Piledriver]

I was eyeballing that last General unit and similar ones earlier, thinking that with one of those and a good .01 degree digital level, it would cover most bases.

Another little item I stumbled upon awhile back is for cutting tubing (thick wall, sadly just eats exhaust tubing, shame) at random angles, including off axis cuts... not something you can just BUY, though, as no one apparently sells one quite like this, but a HF tubing notcher is a good start, as some of the parts are handy.

You may have to try an build it before it makes sense. Makes for a very nice welding fixture as well with a few clamps.
Behold: The CBH 'Notch-O-Matic' Tubing Notcher
http://www.chopperhandbook.com/notcher.htm

[Ol'fogasaurus]

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-co ... 92471.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-co ... 96791.html

If you don’t like HF there are other companies that sell these.

Right and 45° angles, protractor with either 12” or 24” straight edge and a center finder. This goes a long way towards locating things,

[buildabiggerboxer]

My most used tool for setup is the corner weighting gauge, it moved performance up several notches on the B/j Race cars with the non adjustable axle beam, mainly in improved braking from equal wheel weights, all I could do for those was bend the arms to load the light left front, we are RHD, it would come good for a light driver, the big guys suffered most. the newer brake roller test machines give a digital wheel load read out which may help those without the equipment to corner weigh their own stuff.
I race with a more liberal rule set these days, so now my axle has dual Swayaways to set the corner weights accurately.

[raygreenwood]

The best angle finder for the buck I have found and use every day is this one: The pro-360 digital finder..
Compact, tough good to .1 degrees, has alternate "0" function is recalibrate-able in the field. Not dirt cheap but certainly not bad for a really useful tool.

These use a unique liquid filled internal digital cell for taking their readings. Best $198 tool I have.

The only drawback is that the tool itself is not magnetic but there is a magnetic attachment accessory for it

Here are some pictures.

http://s1186.photobucket.com/user/raygr ... slideshow/

This is the same tool by the same company packaged under SPI name....for extra bucks. The magnetic attachment tool is listed. At $266 its a little pricier than what I paid. Beware of Chinese knock-off that run on lithium batteries. These run on 9 volts and are made in USA

Same one I have: http://www.smarttooltech.com/category.php?category=1

These also come with an NIST certification if needed. yes...they are good levels.

I got mine at Mcmater carr for $198 with box. They also sell another version for $337 that is accurate to .01 degrees but only has display range of 0-10 degrees.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#21465a81/=uh9d7a


I figure for a car for do it yourself....if you need more than .1 degree accuracy you should be on some shops frame jig already.

BEWARE: here is a link to the common Chinese knockoff that looks very similar and calls itself "Pro-360"....but is nowhere near as tough or made as well and runs on CR2032 lithium batteries. It has the magnetic groove built in....and is about half the price. I have used them. Battery life is short, they damage easily as compared to the real deal.



If it makes any difference in your mind....the real brand (Pro-360).....also makes this same rebadged part for Mitutoyo and Starrett
http://ecatalog.mitutoyo.com/Digital-Pr ... C1438.aspx

Buy the original Pro 360 branded part and save $$$


Ray

[Dale M.]

This is kinda sexy for HF tool...

http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-square-1701.html

Wonder if someone makes better quality one...

Dale

[Piledriver]

My most used tool for setup is the corner weighting gauge, it moved performance up several notches on the B/j Race cars with the non adjustable axle beam, mainly in improved braking from equal wheel weights, all I could do for those was bend the arms to load the light left front, we are RHD, it would come good for a light driver, the big guys suffered most. the newer brake roller test machines give a digital wheel load read out which may help those without the equipment to corner weigh their own stuff.
I race with a more liberal rule set these days, so now my axle has dual Swayaways to set the corner weights accurately.

Considering bending the upper arms back a bit (~6mm/6mm back) on my T3, this would add some badly needed negative camber, while also adding some badly needed caster, as well as reducing caster change a little as the upper arm is shorter.
It it just a matter of heating it up and apply press or is there a recommended procedure?
Would it be better done cold or hot?