The Camber Compensator Revisted

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FJCamper
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The Camber Compensator Revisted

Post by FJCamper »

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ABOVE: 261 braking so hard the headlight grille broke loose of its clips and flew off the car. Note that the rear tires are flat and straight, no jacking is occuring.

THE CAMBER COMPENSATOR REVISITED

We field-tested our camber compensator modification at a local SCCA autocross today, to see how it would perform under abrupt turns, accelleration, and braking, all dynamics guaranteed to upset swing axles. For all you with the IRS rear end, please go read something else. This is for us desperate swing axle racers.

Here is the modification, applied to a Sway-A-Way spring.

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The modification is simple, the ends of the spring are U-bolted to the rear axle, with enough slack to not create a preload, and to allow the axle to slide in and out of the U-bolts as it moves up and down.

Porsche introduced what it called the rear axle "compensating spring" with the Super 90 in 1960. Here is what the factory wrote about it:

REAR AXLE COMPENSATING SPRING ON SUPER 90 AND CARRERA

In order to further improve the road holding qualities of our sports car, the Porsche Engineering Department has equipped the rear axle with a compensating spring.

This compensating spring is a single blade steel spring, tapered on both ends, which is supported at the center by the transmission housing, it's ends being connected to the radius arms by means of tie rods and rubber [illegible] It acts as a kind of counter-stabilizer, i.e., inversely to the stabilizer mounted on the front axle, and designed in such a manner that in conjunction with new torsion bars designed to match, with an equal wheel load the rear suspension properties remain unchanged, whereas with an unequal load the suspension will be softer.

How does the rear axle with compensating spring affect the road holding qualities of the Porsche car as compared to the rear axle without compensating spring?

Curves can be taken at greater speed since the tendency to oversteer is reduced and also the rear axles tendency to break away is smaller. As a consequence less steering correction is necessary. Less oversteering signifies that when cornering the front axle now absorbers a greater part of the resultant forces. And finally, skidding of the rear wheels caused by too fast cornering is slower and more even. The car gives a warning and the driver has plenty of time for correction.

When driving on straight uneven roads there is a continuous unilateral thrust movement of the rear wheels which with the rear axle with compensating spring is smaller than the rear axle without compensating spring. The car is thus less subject to jolts especially when driving at high speeds which [illegible] greater stability.

The rear axle with compensating spring is not only advantageous in competition driving, but it also means more comfort in every day driving and more safety in emergencies.

The compensating spring may be optionally installed in all other cars in which transmission with tunnel housing is fitted.


The factory reduced the Super 90 and Carrera rear torsion bars by 1mm (24mm to 23mm) to soften the rear suspension for more roll, making the front axle and front sway bar take more of the load.

So, if the factory wanted a softer rear supension, and our mod with the Sway-A-Way spring would obviously add some roll stiffness by joining the spring to the axles, there was some element of risk involved. We might be creating a scary oversteering or understeering car, especially in violent autocross style manuvers.

But it didn't work out that way. The modification increased overall stability, and predictable understeer. On the fast sweepers, the 1965 Ghia exhibited steady-state understeer, and on zig-zag slaloms, the rear end could be thrown out easily but recovered just as easily.

We think the success of the modification is due to the moderate rate of the Sway-A-Way spring. It is on the softer rather than harder side. But, harder compensator spring rates have been used on Porsche 356's, notably in this privately developed device:

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The end links bolt to the rear axle spring plate assembly, and allow preload.

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ABOVE: Swing axles -- uncontrolled -- allow jacking and "tuck-under" of the rear tires.

Another swing axle taming trick is the simple but effective "flop stops."

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The flop stop is a spacer installed at the base of the spring plate that prevents the spring plate from travelling all the way down, adding a slight amount of negative camber and resisting jacking. We use them on 261 as well. Every little bit helps.

Now, to test a double camber compensator spring like the 356 version shown above ...

FJC

PS: We've never autocrossed 261, and in fact have been away from autocrosses since 2007! And 261 is not a "slalom car" it is a cross country road racer. Be that as it may, the big figure-8 course we ran today (14May11) was set up for Corvettes.

The fastest cars ran 32-34 seconds. The slow cars ran 40+ seconds. Barret drove 261 to a best time of 38 seconds, 261's mild enduro 1600 engine pitted against cars that had three to four times our power.

And for that third of the field we beat overall, ponder tonight a swing axle did it to you.
Roadcow
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Re: The Camber Compensator Revisted

Post by Roadcow »

That's a great result! We ran a camber compensator on our 356B Cabriolet with great results.
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superstar
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Re: The Camber Compensator Revisted

Post by superstar »

FJ, what make and size tires are you running?
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FJCamper
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Re: The Camber Compensator Revisted

Post by FJCamper »

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Hi Superstar,

Nothing exotic. The photo of 261 shows our 5.5" chromed Mangle wheels, 4-bolt pattern, with 50-series 165x15 Federal Formoza FD-1 tires. They lower us 2" front and rear.

We are just learing how to "tune" the Fed Formozas, our first outing with them being Road Atlanta in the rain in December. With the cold, wet conditions then, we tried 24psi front and 26 psi rear there, and found we still needed more rear pressure.

So, this last weekend (first autocross on the FF's) we started with 30-30, thinking that was enough. Next time we start with 30/36. Even at 30psi rear, Barret said they still felt like cushions. A 50-series sidewall is not much, but the rollover scuffing was almost half the sidewall.

By comparison, our 175x15 Avon racing radials (70 series) took 26/28 for really hard tires.

The camber compensator mod was providing us with understeer, which works the front tires more, but 38-second runs and cool asphalt were not enough to raise much heat and tire pressure.

Porsche provided an adjustment on its factory compensating spring, in the bolt attachments to the axle brackets.

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Above: Original factory "compensating spring."

The bolts allowed some preload. There were two adjustments, full slack ("limosine") and full tight ("sport").

Our U-bolts allow for no adjustment other than "race."

FJC
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ericsbracer
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Re: The Camber Compensator Revisted

Post by ericsbracer »

If that Sway-Away is like the one one my 60 Beetle that I raced in Vintage, I'd be very careful with the "U" shapped attachments to the transmission. The mounting bracket does not mount well to the side covers and the whole unit CAN be 'forced' off - I know because I had one 'slip' off the side cover bolts and it ended up costing me a car. For my next one I welded washers to the mounting bracket so it could not slip off.
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FJCamper
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Re: The Camber Compensator Revisted

Post by FJCamper »

Hi Ericsbracer,

Yes, the Sway-A-Way pictured here has the slotted transmission mount. Your suggestion of welding washers over the slots is very important. The Porsche factory mount had holes, not slots.

I have not yet had washers welded to ours, but it will be done.

That said, we mounted this compensator in 2007 for Mexico, checked it's tightness a few times during the PanAm, and have used it in a few track events since. It has always stayed solid for us, but we expected it to loosen like yours did.

The only thing I can think of that might affect our mount (in a good way) is we have a Kafer brace, and that really stops movement in the entire rear end. But we're not counting on it. We're welding washers.

FJC
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Re: The Camber Compensator Revisted

Post by j-bro »

FJ. I've followed some of your posts in this forum and I believe I recall you saying that you thought a Z-bar may work better than the leaf spring style camber compensators.

Do you have any plans to test a Z-bar on the track?
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FJCamper
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Re: The Camber Compensator Revisted

Post by FJCamper »

Hi J-Bro,

Yes, most racers would agree that the Z-bar is better in the overall, especially at 10/10ths. The FV guys have proved it.

US import VW's were fitted with Z-bars in 1967 and 1968, with the four-joint IRS rear end being introduced in 1969. The Z-bar mounting holes remained in the bodies even after 1969.

We have two Ghias, a 1965 and a 1970. The '65 has no factory Z-bar mounting locations, while the '70 does, but doesn't need it! We have no Z-bar test bed right now.

What we are trying to show in our camber compensator testing is that we can improve handling despite the side effect of the compensator increasing rear roll resistance, which is bad for swing axles. So far so good.

You know that rear sway bars for swing axles exist, and the purpose of a rear sway bar is to increase rear roll resistance. I have a lot of experience with swing axles and rear sway bars. They can and do in fact work well together, and are not the accident waiting to happen most people think they are. The big advantage of the rear swaybar on a swing axle is axle movement control. A 19mm bar works very well at that.

We plan to have a stiffer compensating spring made, a la Vic's "356 Camber Regulator" style, just to see how it does.

FJC
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