Ghia Road Course Setup

For road racing, autocrossing, or just taking that curve in style. Oh yea, and stopping!
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Piledriver
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Location: Van Alstyne, Texas

Re: Ghia Road Course Setup

Post by Piledriver » Sat Jun 24, 2017 10:11 pm

New high density OE progressive foam bump stops on my square, courtesy of Ford Racing, ~$35 shipped for the F&R set.
2005-2014 MUSTANG FORD RACING JOUNCE BUMPER KIT M-5570-A

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2014-MUSTA ... 2749.l2649

Had them in 2 days.

They are technically for late model Mustangs with the racing lowering springs, but fit with only minor alteration and work freaking awesome. These will fit a T1. They are meant to be part of your suspension.
The fronts are actually for struts, but they work out on std T1/T3, but Super Beetle ready.

Trust me, you want these if you have an even slightly lowered car, and maybe even stock.
I went for a 15 mile drive over the nastiest roads/potholes I know of and the difference between these and rubber or urethane is like day vs. night, I only heard square edged potholes that were previously knocking the trans out of gear...
I though I had missed the first pothole. I didn't. Its like a different car...

If you want a little taller/stiffer the std late Mustang bumps are similar,. taller and stiffer foam, might be able to junkyard score them but as these are actually cheaper than urethane bumps new, and work like you wish urethane bumps would...

I almost sprang for the EVS foam snubbers for shocks but I really, really despise using shocks as bump stops, even if they have teflon/kevlar lined heim ends. These are the same sort of foam.

I only managed to take a pic of the front, the rear foam snubber is mostly solid foam, looks and size is almost same as the stock T1 rubber bullet, once you peel it out of the bolt-on bracket Ford uses.
The rears you will have to drill/grind the middle hole a bit to pop over the mushroom, fronts work out.
(Mine are simply glued into the bump stop "cups" of the early aluminum 944 trailing arms)

The lower half of the front is tapered and hollow, upper half is ~solid foam with a big hole in the middle for a strut shaft, popped over the factory nub and cut around the periphery about 1/4" so the foam fits inside and fills the factory snubber mount.

I used some Plastic Welder to secure them, even though they are basically only in pure compression.
(Duro Plastic Welder, always comes in a black double barrel syringe, several brands sell it under license, Locktite is NOT one of them and their "plastix bonder" royally sucks in comparison)
foam-bumps-ford.JPG
In case you are wondering, I don't run extension stops as that's as far as the torsion bars allow the front end to droop.
The 6" travel coil overs have another 1/2" of travel. (very modified Bilstein S6Gs with shortened bodies and revalved 2010/digressive pistons, KYB "supplied" the ext. reservoirs, Home Depot res. mounts, -4 Goodridge SS/Teflon brake lines from Smileys Racing for the hose, Redline likewater shock oil)
The bars are installed unloaded at ~std ride height and act ~like "4-way" coil over springs.(T3 front bars are splined)
Rear setup is ~same.
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I, for one, regularly embrace our new robot overlords, as I am the guy fixing the robots...

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CobraJet
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Re: Ghia Road Course Setup

Post by CobraJet » Sat Jun 24, 2017 11:44 pm

What I'm looking at here is the vented disk brakes you have installed. Tell us more about the brake setup you're running and what it takes to get that installed!

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Piledriver
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Re: Ghia Road Course Setup

Post by Piledriver » Sun Jun 25, 2017 1:58 am

CobraJet wrote:
Sat Jun 24, 2017 11:44 pm
What I'm looking at here is the vented disk brakes you have installed. Tell us more about the brake setup you're running and what it takes to get that installed!
That's well documented in fjcampers "wilwood brakes" thread or in my sort of build thread in the T3 forum.
It all weighs ~same as stock give or take a few ounces from the spindles to the rubber on the road.
The pads weigh almost as much as the calipers.

I'd now go with the CB aluminum 5x130 hubs with rear mount adapters, or the Coleman aluminum hats in 2.5", they can be turned down a bit offset wise. The steel hats are only available in 3" offset, cheaper, but it made for a lot more work.

The foam bump stops almost make more of a difference and are a cheap no brainer, that can be installed in under a hour.
I wish I'd thought of that years ago.

Pretty much any modern production car uses similar foam bump stops for many years now, for very good reason.
I, for one, regularly embrace our new robot overlords, as I am the guy fixing the robots...

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itawolf
Posts: 294
Joined: Thu Sep 02, 2010 8:07 pm
Location: vestavia alabama

Re: Ghia Road Course Setup

Post by itawolf » Mon Jul 03, 2017 1:29 pm

Piledriver wrote:
Sat Jun 24, 2017 10:11 pm
New high density OE progressive foam bump stops on my square, courtesy of Ford Racing, ~$35 shipped for the F&R set.
2005-2014 MUSTANG FORD RACING JOUNCE BUMPER KIT M-5570-A

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2014-MUSTA ... 2749.l2649

Had them in 2 days.

They are technically for late model Mustangs with the racing lowering springs, but fit with only minor alteration and work freaking awesome. These will fit a T1. They are meant to be part of your suspension.
The fronts are actually for struts, but they work out on std T1/T3, but Super Beetle ready.

Trust me, you want these if you have an even slightly lowered car, and maybe even stock.
I went for a 15 mile drive over the nastiest roads/potholes I know of and the difference between these and rubber or urethane is like day vs. night, I only heard square edged potholes that were previously knocking the trans out of gear...
I though I had missed the first pothole. I didn't. Its like a different car...

If you want a little taller/stiffer the std late Mustang bumps are similar,. taller and stiffer foam, might be able to junkyard score them but as these are actually cheaper than urethane bumps new, and work like you wish urethane bumps would...

I almost sprang for the EVS foam snubbers for shocks but I really, really despise using shocks as bump stops, even if they have teflon/kevlar lined heim ends. These are the same sort of foam.

I only managed to take a pic of the front, the rear foam snubber is mostly solid foam, looks and size is almost same as the stock T1 rubber bullet, once you peel it out of the bolt-on bracket Ford uses.
The rears you will have to drill/grind the middle hole a bit to pop over the mushroom, fronts work out.
(Mine are simply glued into the bump stop "cups" of the early aluminum 944 trailing arms)

The lower half of the front is tapered and hollow, upper half is ~solid foam with a big hole in the middle for a strut shaft, popped over the factory nub and cut around the periphery about 1/4" so the foam fits inside and fills the factory snubber mount.

I used some Plastic Welder to secure them, even though they are basically only in pure compression.
(Duro Plastic Welder, always comes in a black double barrel syringe, several brands sell it under license, Locktite is NOT one of them and their "plastix bonder" royally sucks in comparison)foam-bumps-ford.JPG

In case you are wondering, I don't run extension stops as that's as far as the torsion bars allow the front end to droop.
The 6" travel coil overs have another 1/2" of travel. (very modified Bilstein S6Gs with shortened bodies and revalved 2010/digressive pistons, KYB "supplied" the ext. reservoirs, Home Depot res. mounts, -4 Goodridge SS/Teflon brake lines from Smileys Racing for the hose, Redline likewater shock oil)
The bars are installed unloaded at ~std ride height and act ~like "4-way" coil over springs.(T3 front bars are splined)
Rear setup is ~same.
thx Pile for the "add" to my list of must get

nice find
RET Marine 0317 --with VW on the lobe!!
Lots of iron in the fire

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