Heavy duty IRS CV joints & axle options for drag & street

[ecksrash]

This is a great thread... I'll be doing a conversion like this for my Ghia. My trans has thing stubs on it and I have 924 outboard stub axles. My trailing arms have been narrowed an inch so I'll be using the LH type 3 auto stick length axles Which CVs will I need to acquire to make this work??

[Bruce2]

Stock Type 2 Bus. Check the width of the inner race.

[ecksrash]

Thanks Bruce T. It's been many years since you gave me the info on the original Cal-Look forum. Needless to say my memory isn't what it used to be...

[The Newf]

I'm using type 2 shafts with 181 stubs on my 2234 with good success.I don't side-step the clutch too often,and my turbo doesn't spool untill it see's a little load,so the launches aren't that brutal.I use a kennedy stage 3 though which is more like an on/off switch than a clutch.The shafts see 24psi of boost on the street & 32 psi at the track,so they're seeing LOTS of hp.I recommend the type 2 for street/some strip use.There are weaker links in the chain than the axles,in my case.

[madmike]

same boat sort of ,but I'm not narrowing anything,
so is Type 181 CV's the same size as type II CV's? or what?? I don't mine using II's but I don't want to clearance the frame horns

[Piledriver]

same boat sort of ,but I'm not narrowing anything,
so is Type 181 CV's the same size as type II CV's? or what?? I don't mine using II's but I don't want to clearance the frame horns

Don't fret, the 100mm cvs will eventually do it for you.
Seriously, T2 and T4 CVs are same diameter, but T4 is a little wider, can deal with more angle.
I'm not sure if Thing CVs are T2 or T4, but they are almost interchangeable, and the same diameter.

The other option is raising the trans.
If you are going to slam the car that's actually a good idea*, but a lot more work than a few minutes of intense workout with a 3 lb sledge...



*you want the axles/cvs at ~zero angle at normal ride height, ideally. Less wear, can take more load.
More common on drag cars.

[madmike]

Drag only for now

[epetrea]

I'm at the same point. I have new type 2 cv joints going in ghia with type 2 flanges and with narrowed trailing arms and type 3 auto LH axles and
understand that the inner race has to be narrowed to fit on end of axle, Milling 4 mm off would be easier to the machinist, but I like the idea of counter boring it and retaining the width for strength. My question is , has anybody had this done and what are the dimensions?

[Marc]

Does this help?:
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=113520

[Piledriver]

I have never seen the splines strip out of a CV joint, even narrowed.
Not even EMPIs. Never the slightest trace.
EMPI axles, OTOH... Heat treating: they've heard of it.

The V8 roundy-round guys running Wide5s, the axles drive flange at the end is usually aluminum, with not much more tooth for the axle connection than a CV joint, they throw many multiples of both power/weight/abuse around than anyone here ~ever will. (the drive flanges are a consumable though, good racing axles are expensive drive flanges can be swapped in a minute without even pulling the tire)

(They do make Wide5 CrMo drive flanges but they are typically "ball drive" flanges so they can run the wheels at a slightly different angle than the axle)

[epetrea]

Thanks for the info gents