Redline D6 ATF?

[Piledriver]

Redline makes a Dexron VI... ATF that is somehow also 80W(?) GL4 gear oil. (Redline D6)
(And apparently a thicker Dexron IV version called D4)
Have been considering it for both sides of the 003 and 010 automatics due to possible cross contamination from the seal.

Anyone use it/have experience with long term results?
Could I use that on a T1 manual or 901 trans?
(thinking fuel savings)

I don't mind a little more noise, don't want worn out parts.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=115&pcid=7

Possibly useful lube temp vs. viscosity chart on an Honda Odyssey forum
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/attachmen ... hen-40.jpg

[Pablo2]

I'd be afraid to use it in the diff myself .. but if you do, please give us some long term feedback.
I think drivers whose main goal is fuel economy are FAR more sympathetic on heavily stressed components.
My heavy foot (& 240 hp) necessitates 85/90 GL-5.

[Slow 1200]

If I was to use it, I guess I'd run the this fancy ATF as ATF and regular GL5 on the diff side, in the case of leaking seals (which happens all too often) it would imagine it would be less dramatic for the ring and pinion than any generic Dexron III, right?

GL4 on the diff side of a 003 doesn't sound like a good idea

[Piledriver]

Still researching it, I guess if the GL4 ATF gets into the diff in this case it would be pretty compatible.
Earlier versions of the 003 far predate GL5s creation IIRC, so I would be surprised if GL4 wasn't fine.

The D6 seems to be commonly used in manual transmissions these days...
Final drives might feel otherwise though.

The opposite (gear oil on ATF side) is probably fatal for the transmission (friction material anyway)

Not sure which way the autos die, haven't had it happen to me. Yet.

I guess how it does with hypoid gears is the critical question.
(OK, IIRC not hypoid, but similar loadings)

[Slow 1200]

I thought the 003 r&p was hypoid? on 003s VW always called for "EP" or "Hypoid" gear oil on the diff side, I've always though of GL5s to be a synonim of that


not that I know anything about oils! or transmissions by that matter, although I did semi-rebuild my low mileage 003 after a failure due to a leaking seal, regular ATF does NOT lubricate ring and pinions very well

PS Didn't they also spec EP for 004s and 002s?

[Piledriver]

GL4 == extreme pressure lubricant as well, and GL4-rated lube likely what your VW shipped with.

The fact that the D6 Redline ATF is rated as a GL4 gear oil is what makes me wonder...

[Slow 1200]

GL4 == extreme pressure lubricant as well, and GL4-rated lube likely what your VW shipped with.

The fact that the D6 Redline ATF is rated as a GL4 gear oil is what makes me wonder...

AFAIK GL5 offers way better EP protection than GL4, but again, let's hear what the experts have to say

[Slow 1200]

I knew I had seen it somewhere

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/man ... vice/5.jpg

This is from a 1981 Type 3 and 4 service manual

[Piledriver]

A different view on GL4 vs. GL5 re: brass synchros that I hadn't seen before.

Interesting theory...
http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf

Redline D6 is 70W80 GL4, and also Dexron6, ester based.

I'll probably try it with a shot of WS2 in the manual trans at the next change.
(Has Mobil1 syn with 1 oz of .6 micron WS2 now, seems to stay suspended)

[Pablo2]

... VW always called for "EP" or "Hypoid" gear oil on the diff side, I've always though of GL5s to be a synonim of that ...

More or less true. For decades, VW called for Hypoid because of the higher level of EP additives in Hypoid gear lubes. (Even though their R&Ps were NOT of hypoid design, they wanted the best protection possible for the small R&Ps.) They changed this recommendation in '73 ( http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1137489.jpg ) because they were nervous about some of the newer (cheaper to produce) gear lubes with reactive sulfur, and what might happen to older synchro rings with those new (cheap) gear lubes. This was NOT based on long term testing, but rather because they felt with stock engine torque, GL-4 was adequate. (It's interesting to note that they drew the line with the Type 4.)

In every paper explaining the difference between GL-4 and GL-5, and in every argument telling you why GL-4 is the oil you should be using, an old, discolored, bare brass synchro ring is held up as the evidence of why GL-5 should be avoided. (I am still searching for a GL-5 destroyed brass synchro ring in VW world.)

Two reasons why the argument against GL-5 has no validity to us:
1) There are quality GL-5 gear lubes available to us that have ZERO sulfur in them (and most of the rest have LONG AGO changed their formulas to non-reactive sulfur compounds).
2) VW has been coating their brass synchro rings for the past 35 years, so that no longer is any working surface bare brass. One exception: Some 4th gear synchros are still bare brass. HOWEVER: A) these are showing no abnormal wear, and B) the nervous can substitute a moly-coated 3rd gear synchro in 4th gear position. (It's a bean-counter decision to save $2 by installing a bare brass synchro ring in 4th .. and it wouldn't have been done if a "real" problem still existed.)

So .. while I wouldn't be afraid to use a GL-4 in a stock application, in any performance (or high dollar) application, common sense dictates that I use a GL-5, for longevity's sake.