==best penetrating oil---

[EZGZ]

Geez I feel old.

Ask any old Navy BT and he will tell you "Oil of Wintergreen"

Thats right, the stuff your mom or wife has in her kitchen cooking stuff.
Just use an eyedropper and put it on the rusty stuck item and leave it over night if you can.

The side benifit is it will make your garage smell good.

another old trick the Model "A" FORD guys used was to get pure coke syrup. Just flat coka cola soda pop doesn't work well but the folks that have the machines that mix the syrup with the CO2 will usually give you some.
It is real high in acid scale and will eat threw frozen rusty parts.

[RT]

Lloyd's make some good products such as Loobit and Moovit which is a penetrating oil. They are thicker and foam when you spray it. Good for their lasting effect. Good for around the shop.

But if you're looking for something to get down into threads, try a "penetrating solvent" (do a Google search). There are lots of different brands. I use Kleen-Flo's Quik penetrating solvent. The stuff is thinner than water and actually stands a chance of wicking down into threads. Most of the common brands bantered about don't penetrate well.

[geddes66]

I use and love PB Blaster. one of the most common uses in my shop is to mark and soften the grip the end connector bolts have on M1A1 tanks prior to changing the tracks out.

[pocketrocket]

I have to remove head studs out of waterboxer blocks the best I have found is Kroil. Rocky

[Bugfuel]

CRC Rost Flash.

Love that stuff, it's a penetrating solvent/lubricant that chills down to -40F when it shoots out of the can. The thermal shrinking breaks the rust bond, and it's more efefctive if you can heat the part a little with a torch too. Huge temp differences make the parts expand and retract. POP!

Just had an intake manifold stud snap on me that hadn't been removed in 20 years. Came out with vice grips and Rost Flash.

Jan

[jwvert]

PB Blaster as already stated, works very well and easy to find.
JW

[Scott Novak]

Ditto on the Kroil. The only think I like better is SiliKroil which has a little silicone lube added to the mix. I've been using it for over 30 years with great results. It worked on things that none of the other penetrating lubes would loosen.

A friend had been using every penetrating lube he could find for over a week to try to free up his kinpins. It took two hands to turn the steering wheel. A squirt of Kroil, and 15 minutes it started to free up. The next day you could turn the steering wheel with one finger.

Scott Novak

[Wizzard]

I've always been fond of Marvel Mystery Oil .
Must be an old guy thing .........
Regards, Wizzard

[Can Drive Soon]

All the stuff you guys metioned is great stuff, but you cant beat one thing...

My air/acetylene torch!



If in doubt use a bigger tip!

[buggin']

[/quote]Ask any old Navy BT and he will tell you "Oil of Wintergreen"
I work on Canadian Navy boats , and remember when I first started my apprenticeship wondering why the hell there were bottles of tobasco all over the engine room- they use it to loosen rusted deckplate bolts! Thought it was crazy until I tried and it actually worked
Myself, I like the ol' heat wrench.

[low69ghia]

PB is good, but the two best I have ever used were LPS which is not sold at typical auto stores, and Kroil. You have to look for a commercial supply place for LPS like a place that supplies AC and other construction stuff. Kroil is sold in some VW shops, but you can get it online. Search Kano Industries.
I started using LPS which sells a lot of specialty types of oil, chain lube (great for motorcycles) and diff penetrants. I NEVER broke an exhaust stud with this. Let it sit for 30-45 min and you can undo anything.
BUT, even better is Kroil. This stuff is the S**t. It will walk up the threads of a vertical bolt. It gets into a 10 micron crack. I have tried to remove rusted wheel bolts with a 6' cheater bar with no luck. Put on Kroil, waited 30 min and it came off so easy that my head almost hit the ground.
Worth every penny - about $8 for a 12 or 16 oz spray can.

[SCOTTRODS]

I realize this is an old thread, but I keep running across these old discussions and finding I have suggestions or better info to offer.... This is a copy and paste from another forum, but describes in effort, which brand or type of Penetrating oils work... I have been using the acetone/ATF mix for a while. Smells awful (like soured fruit of some kind), but works amazingly well.... I guess I've been using it since about 2009

Some reading for you guys. Yeah,... I know the copy is old. It has proven correct in my experience, that the order is pretty much spot on too. I've used 'em all.

"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."

[Leatherneck]

What is average load referring to?

[Piledriver]

What is average load referring to?

Turning force on removal most likely, test setup must have been huge based on the dry tq value.

I've tried the Acetone/ATF mix, works peachy and very inexpensive, I repurposed an old Berrymans bottle. (metal)

(Actually, I cheated and used 50% Berrymans B12 which contains acetone, toluene, MEK and isopropyl alcohol, can also be used to strip paint or to clean up a fuel system in a hurry, ~$2/pint at wally world)

B12 alone works great but evaporates very quickly, plus it's easier to see where it goes with the ATF color/thickener.

[Veriar]

Just my two cents...

I believe that PB Blaster is the best available PENETRANT.I first found it about 3 years ago and it is all that I use now.

It uses capillary action to "follow" threads on a stuck object such as spark plugs,pipes,nuts/bolts,hub caps etc.It breaks the surface tension of a rust bond-that's how it is able to seep past stuck rings in a cylinder,it also works excellent if you have a stuck journal bearing because it will "pull" itself upward to the top of the bearing if you can only spray into the side of it and it creeps throughout the whole seizure with the capillary action to break the rust bond.

I don't think it is expensive at all because of the results you get,you dont have to mix anything together,you just point and spray and it has a pinpoint stream,not a mist.Some places may have liquid wrench cheaper than PB but when I last bought LW it was around $3 for 9 or 10 oz. and PB cost's me $4 (+ -) for about 15 oz. and it come's in a spray can while LW comes in a small tin dropper can.I like LW for small jobs where I can't have a mess or need only a drop or 2.

All in all it's good stuff and at a fair price for the results it delivers,it IS expensive compared to spray lubricants,but they are 2 different things,for 2 different jobs.

Try a can on your "Really tough projects" and post your results.And as with any PENETRANT give it reasonable time to do it's job.It took it a LONG time to get seized...schramm...

It doesn't compare to WD-40- because that's a lubricant.WD-40 is great for lubricating mechanisms and lite moving parts,but it is not really in the class of penetrants...