2 Post Lift Question regarding use with Type 1

[Tindjin]

For those that use a 2 post lift could you share pictures of where you place the pads for the lift arms? I was lucky to get a good deal on one and I am trying to figure out how far apart to mount the lift pylons. I need to balance lifting the bug (most usage) with once in a while use with my truck. The thing I am not sure of is best spot for placement of the pads so I can measure everything. The manual doesn't really help as it just gives "general" distances for car types. Even the few specific cars they use as examples are all modern and nothing as small as the bug.

Someone on FB said to use the front body bolt location and on the rear the spot where the spring plate bolts to the torsion housing. Sound right?

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Opinion: I would take heed of the jacking points but do not put the lift pads on the pan halves themselves; this is because the floor material is not the strongest around. I did slip miss by the bottom of the tunnel once when doing some slight jacking to get some stands under the torsion tube and put a dent into the pan half.

The body mount channel is probably going to be the strongest area as the body makes contact there for additional strength.

Lee

My opinion is worth slightly less than you paid for it.

[risk]

I don't have pics but..
I put the front pads under where the two big body bolts are on each side. (each side of napoleon hat)
Then the rear pads go under the torsion tubes.
The arms on my lift are stretched all the way out and barely reach under a vw.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

The pads at the two bolts at each end of the Napoleon's hat are good as it is a fairly strong point and has body support. While I am sure the torsion tube location should be OK I am a bit leery mostly based on something a former VW trained mechanic told me as it is a weak spot in the basic design; I am sure it is OK as long as long as you don't drop the lift down too fast .

Lee

[Bruce2]

While I am sure the torsion tube location should be OK I am a bit leery mostly based on something a former VW trained mechanic told me as it is a weak spot in the basic design; I am sure it is OK as long as long as you don't drop the lift down too fast .

The outer end of the torsion housing is the ideal location to lift it by. It is NOT a weak spot, it's supporting the weight of the whole rear of the car all the time.
The lowering speed of the lift applies no extra stress on anything. When the wheel touches down, weight is being transferred to the torsion housing via the wheel exactly as weight is being removed from the lift points. The total stress on the torsion housing is the same.
If the suspension compresses when you drop the car fast, it's no different than if you hit a dip in the road while driving.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

"The outer end of the torsion housing is the ideal location to lift it by. It is NOT a weak spot, it's supporting the weight of the whole rear of the car all the time." Bruce2

Then why is it a problem and is advised to double up on it. I was advised by a former ACVW mechanic to add more than one back up as it was a problem even to VW (based on what he said) in non-stock uses. After dealing with the subject I am working on, it seems to me that the whole assy is OK for show but not for go (an old term).

I said it probably OK but I wouldn't use it if I had the lift he does (I wish I did though which is partly why I made the rotisserie).

Update

Look at page 75 (picture on page 76) of Jeff Hubbard's book Baja Bugs & Buggies.

"The small brace connecting the out-board ends of the torsion tube to the floorpan tends to break, The torsion-tube ends then flex at the welds at their welds at the tunnel. Using an 1/8-in thick steel plate 4 - 5-in long, weld the ends of the torsion tubes to the pan just inside the existing brace." It continues on with more descriptions of this area.

Granted this book is more towards off-road but drag racing, autocross, road racing and so forth also put a lot of stress and strain on the outer ends of the torsion tube.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

pan and torsion tube support 03 (2).jpg

Looking down at the support at an angle.

Pan and torsion tube support 02 (2) - Copy.jpg

Looking from the underside of the pan.

I don't remember the width of the hook but it wasn't that wide. I have seen this hook from the torsion tube to the pan broken numerous times. Kind of brittle as I remember.

[Bruce2]

It's only a problem in your mind. And that VW mechanic that gave you bad advice.
Where else do you suggest to lift it up by, the fender? The running board?

Lifting the car by the outer torsion housing is the BEST place to lift a VW, that's why EVERYONE lifts from there.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Very rude Bruce! Jeff Hibbard also gave a strength fix for the problem so it is not in my mind.

By-the-way, he was a VW trained mechanic and he said the beefing up of the area came from them!

I gave an opinion to where I thought based on what the original German engineers did.

[risk]

You guys crack me up..

A friend of mine has an old in-ground hydraulic lift from a Volkswagen dealership that closed. he uses it in his repair shop everyday. I believe it has lift points at the rear torsions, and the sides of the napoleon hat. I will get a picture next time I go by there.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Murphy's law is an adage or epigram that is typically stated as: "Anything that can go wrong will go wrong".