engine replacement

General tips/tricks/tools that could be utilized on any platform.

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stearman
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engine replacement

Post by stearman » Sun Feb 01, 2015 2:39 pm

Can anbody help with any advice on fitting a upright engine into a t2 which has a cu 2000 engine fitted :?:

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sideshow
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Re: engine replacement

Post by sideshow » Sun Feb 01, 2015 8:34 pm

Well the factory did that in some markets, are you in one of them?
Today that is all most never done, but if you want to spend more money and time than a proper repair ACN offers one of the bits one would need (cooling tin reproduction/clone) leaving you to figure out the rear hanger (the next biggest bitch) and of course the rest of the input shaft/starter issues.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Engine-Con ... -panel.htm
Image

A prior post that may help; viewtopic.php?f=14&t=21913
Yeah some may call it overkill, but you can't have too much overkill.

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Marc
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Re: engine replacement

Post by Marc » Sun Feb 01, 2015 11:20 pm

I put a Type I engine into a `73 Bus years ago and it's still in the family - no regrets at all! In Europe & S.America the Type I was still available for years after the inception of the Type IV in `72, so the sheetmetal and rear mount bar/brackets are common THERE, but rare as hen's teeth in the US.
I got my front & side tinware and moustache bar from a core engine imported from Germany and fabricated my own rear mounts using parts torched out of a scrap IRS Type III (the clevises hanging down from the Type III mounts have to be shortened a bunch to fit over tabs welded atop the Euro moustache bar). Had I not had that bar handy, I'm sure I could've managed to build something that would use either a `68-`71 II or `69-`73 III moustache bar, but the way I did it works very well. For years I didn't have the correct rear breastplate tin and got by with heavy rubber matting pop-riveted to the Type I tin, but eventually I found the right part to clean up the installation.
Since the `72-up Buses all have mounts at the top of the bellhousing, it's not like the rear mount setup has to carry the entire weight of the powertrain like it does in the `68-`71s, but it still should be as robust as you can come up with....just dangling things from the middle mount is horrible, the engine'll dance all over on accel/decel.
Over the years my Bus has had everything from a stock 1600DP to a 1998cc big-valve stroker w/IDA Webers; the stocker really is underpowered but it'll get you around in the flatlands. For several years I ran an 88x69 1679cc with a single 34PICT-3 carb; it was slightly warmed-up (Bugpack 4061 cam, but stock heads and 7¼:1 compression) and compared favorably to the original 90x66 1679cc dual-carb Type IV motor that the Bus came with. The 1998 would push it to 100 MPH but only got around 18 MPG overall even when driven placidly. Based upon my experience, I'd say that a thickwall 1835 with some big dual 1-bbls (like Kadrons) or small 2-bbls (like 40IDF Webers) would make for a pretty nice-driving package, and should have ample torque to pull the 091 trans' gearing. I found that the manifold vacuum available from just one cylinder was marginal to operate the power brakes properly, but once tee'd into two ports (with 2 check valves) that issue was resolved.

Changing the input shaft on the trans is very straightforward; take the bellhousing off and you're just a snapring away...put on an 002 bellhousing and you can use the cheaper SR15 or SR17 starters, too.

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