hello.
im having major runoff on the shaft of my drill press
it goes beyond chuck shaft, its on the housing of bearing.
I would like to repair it, but cant find any spec pdf for this tool
can anybody hint me up?
thanx.
heres video of the press:
ps..i have realized that i dont give good explanation in this video so link is out untill ill re shoot it
Drill press bearing repair help.
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hugging corners
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 12:28 pm
Drill press bearing repair help.
Last edited by hugging corners on Fri Jul 01, 2011 4:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Leatherneck
- Moderator
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- Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2006 6:47 pm
Re: Drill press bearing repair help.
Who is the manufacturer? Have you taken any of it apart yet?
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Steve Arndt
- Posts: 7404
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Re: Drill press bearing repair help.
pics.
the video is too slow and low res to help.
the video is too slow and low res to help.
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Dale M.
- Posts: 1673
- Joined: Mon Oct 05, 2009 8:09 am
Re: Drill press bearing repair help.
I don't think you have a bearing problem, I think you have bent shaft.....
What you need to do is setup a pointer and slowly rotate shaft by hand and see where movement (wobble) is.... If its a bearing problem you can grasp shaft and feel the movement (play) of bad bearing... If it's a bent shaft bearing will be tight (no movement) but wobble will be present......
Dale
What you need to do is setup a pointer and slowly rotate shaft by hand and see where movement (wobble) is.... If its a bearing problem you can grasp shaft and feel the movement (play) of bad bearing... If it's a bent shaft bearing will be tight (no movement) but wobble will be present......
Dale
"Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson
1970 "Kellison Sand Piper Roadster"
1970 "Kellison Sand Piper Roadster"
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hugging corners
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 12:28 pm
Re: Drill press bearing repair help.
thanks guys for input
i will shot better quality video in few days
the press is called sun
it has a victor chuck
That chuck:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqV,!jcE3M ... ~~0_12.JPG
sits on this is whats called shank:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqJ,!iIE1M ... ~~0_12.JPG
now chuck and shank are pressed into casting of cylindrical assembly (that mover up and down for drilling).
On that assembly there is a bearing (bearing on assembly to casting). Bearing has a play in it but i believe that the whole assembly that's waked- so basically its next rotating part after shank
I will sketch it and take better vid after long weekend
Everybody enjoy:)
i will shot better quality video in few days
the press is called sun
it has a victor chuck
That chuck:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqV,!jcE3M ... ~~0_12.JPG
sits on this is whats called shank:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqJ,!iIE1M ... ~~0_12.JPG
now chuck and shank are pressed into casting of cylindrical assembly (that mover up and down for drilling).
On that assembly there is a bearing (bearing on assembly to casting). Bearing has a play in it but i believe that the whole assembly that's waked- so basically its next rotating part after shank
I will sketch it and take better vid after long weekend
Everybody enjoy:)
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Ol'fogasaurus
- Posts: 17756
- Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm
Re: Drill press bearing repair help.
By the look of it, I think I have seen one or two of them before; what is the name on the front plate, there should be one (the name I have seen on the design eludeds me roght now, the word "tools" comes to mind as part of the brand name; something like "Tough Tools" and it was in Blue [or red] GI stencil lettering). There could be several different sellers who buy it from a single source manufacturer and put their name on it, pretty common now-a-days. The flat face/cornered upper housing casting and the round platen is what looks familiar. Is it a 8" or 10", or maybe 12" drill press?
Some questions: did you just buy this or have you had it awhile? If you had this for a while: was it doing this before or did it just start? Have you been having chuck problems (like it falling off or slipping) and have you been having problems keeping the chuck on and had to drive it back on once or several times or add a replacement chuck lately?
From the video of it running, Dale thought it might be a bent shaft which is possible if the drill press was dropped or if too big of a load was applied the spindle could deform. If someone was hitting the chuck from the side, that could also bend the spindle.
I am not sure if Dale is correct but it could be but it looks more like an off-set spindle wobble to me. If so, it could be something as simple as a piece of debris/chip has gotten in there and forced the shaft to be off-set in the bearing. Is it acting the same at the pulley also or just were the chuck fits on the spindle? The reason I don’t think it is bent is the bottom of the spindle seems (not the best video quality to say for sure though) to stay at a horizontal plane.
If it does turnout to be a bearing, then the bearing should have a name/number etched/screened on it so it may be cross-referenced by a bearing supply house (know knowing where you live or if a bearing supply house is close); they should be able to either cross reference or take measurements and come up with a replacement. Most companies design to common parts availability as unless your tool was designed to do something very special, it is almost cost prohibitive to design your own bearings for something like this.
If it is a bent spindle, then it is off to have it straightened by a shop press. You do not want to wail away with a hammer for so many reasons, this is not the kind of tool that will accept that. Also, if it is an AL (or something else) housing, check for cracks or breaks in the casting.
Lee
Some questions: did you just buy this or have you had it awhile? If you had this for a while: was it doing this before or did it just start? Have you been having chuck problems (like it falling off or slipping) and have you been having problems keeping the chuck on and had to drive it back on once or several times or add a replacement chuck lately?
From the video of it running, Dale thought it might be a bent shaft which is possible if the drill press was dropped or if too big of a load was applied the spindle could deform. If someone was hitting the chuck from the side, that could also bend the spindle.
I am not sure if Dale is correct but it could be but it looks more like an off-set spindle wobble to me. If so, it could be something as simple as a piece of debris/chip has gotten in there and forced the shaft to be off-set in the bearing. Is it acting the same at the pulley also or just were the chuck fits on the spindle? The reason I don’t think it is bent is the bottom of the spindle seems (not the best video quality to say for sure though) to stay at a horizontal plane.
If it does turnout to be a bearing, then the bearing should have a name/number etched/screened on it so it may be cross-referenced by a bearing supply house (know knowing where you live or if a bearing supply house is close); they should be able to either cross reference or take measurements and come up with a replacement. Most companies design to common parts availability as unless your tool was designed to do something very special, it is almost cost prohibitive to design your own bearings for something like this.
If it is a bent spindle, then it is off to have it straightened by a shop press. You do not want to wail away with a hammer for so many reasons, this is not the kind of tool that will accept that. Also, if it is an AL (or something else) housing, check for cracks or breaks in the casting.
Lee
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Dale M.
- Posts: 1673
- Joined: Mon Oct 05, 2009 8:09 am
Re: Drill press bearing repair help.
If the "shank" is bent or not seated properly it will give you indication video shows....
My first inclination would be to use tapered piece into slot of housing and release "shank".... Roll it on smooth flat surface and observe if there is a wobble in small end as it rolls.... If it is bent its either very poor quality shank or been subjected to some serious abuse, because these are usually ground and hardened steel.....
Generally these have standard "Morse taper" (#1-3-3 etc: ) and are easily replaceable....
IF shank appears OK.... You have more serious problem in "column" assembly....
Dale
My first inclination would be to use tapered piece into slot of housing and release "shank".... Roll it on smooth flat surface and observe if there is a wobble in small end as it rolls.... If it is bent its either very poor quality shank or been subjected to some serious abuse, because these are usually ground and hardened steel.....
Generally these have standard "Morse taper" (#1-3-3 etc: ) and are easily replaceable....
IF shank appears OK.... You have more serious problem in "column" assembly....
Dale
"Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson
1970 "Kellison Sand Piper Roadster"
1970 "Kellison Sand Piper Roadster"
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hugging corners
- Posts: 164
- Joined: Thu Jun 24, 2010 12:28 pm
Re: Drill press bearing repair help.
hey Dale, Ol'F, Steve and Leather.
I made second vidio , with attention to details.
Chuck is OK
shank is straight
the shaft that's in column assembly has either play at bearings or is bend and i need to get it out.
It ts an old SUN drill press that has been sitting in basement of my work for years, It is nice heavy duty cast, and i am trying to bring it back straightness since i have bunch of cutting and drilling work pending for new 1600 turbo project i pulled out of scrap yard.
I dont expect miracles with this press, but for sure it is worth trying.
Here's video
http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s182 ... I_4141.mp4
I made second vidio , with attention to details.
Chuck is OK
shank is straight
the shaft that's in column assembly has either play at bearings or is bend and i need to get it out.
It ts an old SUN drill press that has been sitting in basement of my work for years, It is nice heavy duty cast, and i am trying to bring it back straightness since i have bunch of cutting and drilling work pending for new 1600 turbo project i pulled out of scrap yard.
I dont expect miracles with this press, but for sure it is worth trying.
Here's video
http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s182 ... I_4141.mp4
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Ol'fogasaurus
- Posts: 17756
- Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm
Re: Drill press bearing repair help.
Good video.
If you have a dial indicator check the top and the bottom of the main shaft, the one that transmits the power to the chuck shaft, for run-out as you rotate the shaft. That could tell you if you have a bent shaft (unless someone dropped it, I don’t see how it could have gotten bent), the lower and upper shafts will have different readings, or not. I would also check for end to end play on the shaft. When I saw the first video, it looked to me like the shaft was not wobbling like a bent shaft but more like it was rotating off-center that is another reason why I am recommending that you check run-out at both the top and the bottom of the shaft; if there is any movement then, if there is off-set, then you should get similar readings at both ends (I hope this makes sense). I forgot to ask, was the power pulley wobbling also?
The nuts you pointed out look to be the clamping for the raising and lowering mechanism for the housing of the shaft, if it is, then one would suspect that it has to be removed to remove the rest of the assembly.
With roller bearings in the lower shaft, I would also look/check for the landings for the bearing in the casting to be damaged. That roller bearing, if not “C”-clipped in is probably pressed in and will need to be pressed out if it is bad. The bearing probably has number either silk screened (too old for other methods that they use now days) on it so they maybe interchanged via an interchange book or a good bearing store (if you have one locally) should be able to measure what you have and come up with a replacement.
If the shaft is bent, then it may be able to be straightened but I don’t think you will want to put heat to it or hammer it back into shape. Tool steel can be worked with a press to a certain extent but there is quickly a point of no return too. Some of the metals that were made years ago were not of that good of quality, hopefully yours is of better quality.
I hope this helps some. It is kind of hard to do things long distance.
Lee
If you have a dial indicator check the top and the bottom of the main shaft, the one that transmits the power to the chuck shaft, for run-out as you rotate the shaft. That could tell you if you have a bent shaft (unless someone dropped it, I don’t see how it could have gotten bent), the lower and upper shafts will have different readings, or not. I would also check for end to end play on the shaft. When I saw the first video, it looked to me like the shaft was not wobbling like a bent shaft but more like it was rotating off-center that is another reason why I am recommending that you check run-out at both the top and the bottom of the shaft; if there is any movement then, if there is off-set, then you should get similar readings at both ends (I hope this makes sense). I forgot to ask, was the power pulley wobbling also?
The nuts you pointed out look to be the clamping for the raising and lowering mechanism for the housing of the shaft, if it is, then one would suspect that it has to be removed to remove the rest of the assembly.
With roller bearings in the lower shaft, I would also look/check for the landings for the bearing in the casting to be damaged. That roller bearing, if not “C”-clipped in is probably pressed in and will need to be pressed out if it is bad. The bearing probably has number either silk screened (too old for other methods that they use now days) on it so they maybe interchanged via an interchange book or a good bearing store (if you have one locally) should be able to measure what you have and come up with a replacement.
If the shaft is bent, then it may be able to be straightened but I don’t think you will want to put heat to it or hammer it back into shape. Tool steel can be worked with a press to a certain extent but there is quickly a point of no return too. Some of the metals that were made years ago were not of that good of quality, hopefully yours is of better quality.
I hope this helps some. It is kind of hard to do things long distance.
Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
- Posts: 17756
- Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm
Re: Drill press bearing repair help.
Good video.
If you have a dial indicator check the top and the bottom of the main shaft, the one that transmits the power to the chuck shaft, for run-out as you rotate the shaft. That could tell you if you have a bent shaft (unless someone dropped it, I don’t see how it could have gotten bent), the lower and upper shafts will have different readings, or not. I would also check for end to end play on the shaft. When I saw the first video, it looked to me like the shaft was not wobbling like a bent shaft but more like it was rotating off-center that is another reason why I am recommending that you check run-out at both the top and the bottom of the shaft; if there is any movement then, if there is off-set, then you should get similar readings at both ends (I hope this makes sense). I forgot to ask, was the power pulley wobbling also?
The nuts you pointed out look to be the clamping for the raising and lowering mechanism for the housing of the shaft, if it is, then one would suspect that it has to be removed to remove the rest of the assembly.
With roller bearings in the lower shaft, I would also look/check for the landings for the bearing in the casting to be damaged. That roller bearing, if not “C”-clipped in is probably pressed in and will need to be pressed out if it is bad. The bearing probably has number either silk screened (too old for other methods that they use now days) on it so they maybe interchanged via an interchange book or a good bearing store (if you have one locally) should be able to measure what you have and come up with a replacement.
If the shaft is bent, then it may be able to be straightened but I don’t think you will want to put heat to it or hammer it back into shape. Tool steel can be worked with a press to a certain extent but there is quickly a point of no return too. Some of the metals that were made years ago were not of that good of quality, hopefully yours is of better quality.
I hope this helps some. It is kind of hard to do things long distance.
Lee
If you have a dial indicator check the top and the bottom of the main shaft, the one that transmits the power to the chuck shaft, for run-out as you rotate the shaft. That could tell you if you have a bent shaft (unless someone dropped it, I don’t see how it could have gotten bent), the lower and upper shafts will have different readings, or not. I would also check for end to end play on the shaft. When I saw the first video, it looked to me like the shaft was not wobbling like a bent shaft but more like it was rotating off-center that is another reason why I am recommending that you check run-out at both the top and the bottom of the shaft; if there is any movement then, if there is off-set, then you should get similar readings at both ends (I hope this makes sense). I forgot to ask, was the power pulley wobbling also?
The nuts you pointed out look to be the clamping for the raising and lowering mechanism for the housing of the shaft, if it is, then one would suspect that it has to be removed to remove the rest of the assembly.
With roller bearings in the lower shaft, I would also look/check for the landings for the bearing in the casting to be damaged. That roller bearing, if not “C”-clipped in is probably pressed in and will need to be pressed out if it is bad. The bearing probably has number either silk screened (too old for other methods that they use now days) on it so they maybe interchanged via an interchange book or a good bearing store (if you have one locally) should be able to measure what you have and come up with a replacement.
If the shaft is bent, then it may be able to be straightened but I don’t think you will want to put heat to it or hammer it back into shape. Tool steel can be worked with a press to a certain extent but there is quickly a point of no return too. Some of the metals that were made years ago were not of that good of quality, hopefully yours is of better quality.
I hope this helps some. It is kind of hard to do things long distance.
Lee