Deck Lid Interference

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marekv8
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Post by marekv8 » Wed Sep 27, 2006 8:53 am

Doc, that's a fantastic-looking engine/engine compartment you have there. As Jake mentioned earlier, I've had many of the same clearance problems in my earlier Beetle which we're attributing to a slightly whacked rear apron. Beyond gaining clearance at rest and idle-- be sure to give yourself a healthy "high speed" comfort margin. I found that at speeds over 85, the decklid would draw down further against the engine and start removing metal at an alarming rate. Also, quick elevation changes and some hardcore expansion joints would cause the two to meet.

My apron is currently being replaced which I hope will solve my problem. I wish you the best of luck with yours.

Regards, Dave

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doc
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Post by doc » Wed Sep 27, 2006 10:32 am

Dave,

Thanks. I'd like to not get involved in moving the apron. I would probably use standoffs before I start carving.

As you see above, Jake thinks we might gain as much as 1/2" with pulley and backing plate changes. I will try the pulley first, then the backing plate. We'll see where we wind up. I certainly will take special note of your points. Great info! What minimum clearance are you shooting for with the apron adjustment?

I also have a '64 hood, which because of the change to the wider license plate light fixture, is a little flatter through the middle of the deck lid, where my interference point is. This may be another way to gain a little room. But, of course, I would rather go with the original '63 deck lid. Not to mention having to paint the '64.

So, we'll see what happens. I'll post progress.

doc

marekv8
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Post by marekv8 » Wed Sep 27, 2006 12:57 pm

Doc, my apron replacement will attempt to recreate the stock position, although possibly removable with dzus fasteners (that's up to NOH2O Dave). I've also got a '64 decklid (with earlier license plate light) which is offset at the hinges to get as much clearance possible (which looks rather dodgey). As you can see below, the pulley has been chopped down dramaticallly and the tip of the fancy nut has been whacked off-- you can also see where the passenger side air cleaner top and fuel line elbow have been rubbed down considerably. Although these mods have resulted in total clearance around town, when I get running hard on the interstate for an hour it's trouble. I assumed the engine was expanding horizontally as it heated up, but this may not be true.

I'm shooting for a quarter inch of clearance cold before I repaint my poor blistered decklid.

Regards, Dave

Image

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doc
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Post by doc » Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:36 pm

Marekv8,

Most instructive! I will learn a lot from just this one picture. Our builds are very similar in many ways. How long are the oil lines from block to cooler on your car?

What is the braided line running from air cleaner top to air cleaner top?

Good spot for oil sending unit. Might steal that idea. :twisted:

BTW, I have heard that the dzus fasteners on the rear apron set up is the bomb. It would be a piece a cake to remove and install engine if you could just slide it in! I feel like I been lying on the floor for days.

doc

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Post by MASSIVE TYPE IV » Wed Sep 27, 2006 2:05 pm

Doc,
See that pulley? Thats the billet unit that has been turned down..

Dave says it doesn't rub except above 95MPH (he cruises this baby 90+)or so when the fan and carbs are sucking the engine bay dry of air.... His nacaducted lexan quarter windows will solve that issue..

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crocteau
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Post by crocteau » Wed Sep 27, 2006 3:37 pm

doc wrote:Marekv8,

Most instructive! I will learn a lot from just this one picture. (...)

Good spot for oil sending unit. Might steal that idea. :twisted:
Doc, I believe those lines from the air filters go to a breather box you can just make out mounted on the firewall. Not to divert your thread too much, but Marekv8, I agree with Doc; that's a nice shot. Now I understand your comment about real estate in a Ghia engine bay :) Is that a crankcase breather line snaking behind the distributor from the oil fill tube?

I recall a post about a problem with air trapped in the line to the oil pressure sender, and that looks like a good solution...

Thanks!

marekv8
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Post by marekv8 » Wed Sep 27, 2006 4:31 pm

Doc, if it makes you feel better, here's where we started with fuel rail clearance:

Image

Here's a shot without the decklid which shows what Crocteau correctly stated about the breather hoses:

Image

All installlation credit and specs go to DTM Engineering (NOH2O on STF) who really went alll out. The car is actually back in his possession now to cram even more crap back there-- some of which will actually invade the parcel tray area behind the seats. I've got plenty of photos of the conversion, just let me know what you're looking for specifically.

Thanks, Dave

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Post by MASSIVE TYPE IV » Wed Sep 27, 2006 5:16 pm

Yep, we are upgrading the engine to LE 200 heads, adding a dry sump oil system and a few other things at the same time.. And we;ll be swapping his throttle bodies for something SMALLER with my new trick air filter/velocity stack assembly as well as inverting the manifolds to swap the fuel rails and get rid of the interferance issues..

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doc
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Post by doc » Wed Sep 27, 2006 5:24 pm

First, just let me get this little 2.0L up and running and get the car finished up. Then, perhaps, take it apart and go bigger. I'm lettin' all you guys get all the bugs out first.

doc

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Class 11 streeter
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Post by Class 11 streeter » Thu Sep 28, 2006 8:55 pm

doc wrote: Looks like you'd almost have to install an auto kill switch for a zero oil pressure situation.
I have seen a dirt cheap way to do this, actually free.........run the dizzy negative wire thru an oil pressure switch, the kind that closes (turns light on) when oil has almost NO pressure, and this way an oil pressure loss will kill the ignition.

popular idea with off-roaders, until you are climbing a steep hill and loose oil pressure............... :shock:
So you think your project is taking forever eh? Well you've got nothing on me.....

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Plastermaster
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Post by Plastermaster » Wed Oct 04, 2006 8:27 am

what is the 2nd brass fitting on the right air filter top? Not the breather but the other one....

thanks
Ron

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Post by MASSIVE TYPE IV » Wed Oct 04, 2006 8:50 am

Air inlet temp sensor for the EFI arrangement...

Locked