Heater Channel Repair using partial panels

RennWaffe67 · Post by **RennWaffe67** » Sat Jul 05, 2003 9:10 am

Hi Folks, I'm about to boldly go where I have only dreamed. My heater channels are sick, the outer running board edge is rotted as is part of the bottom plate. The cause is the front of the rear wheel well and the back of the front wheel well with small half dollar size rust through allowing water in. Both sides need the rear section surrounding the jack support replaced. Here's the Question, Is it a good idea to use the replacement pannels listed in the Rocky Mountain MotorWorks catalog to just fix the bottom plate and the outer rocker pannel, with proper rust control done once I am inside the heater channels. Or is it easier and better to just replace the whole channel. The inner structure (across the door jam and the curved section inside the car) is solid, and I thought the body would keep it's alignment better to just replace the rust but it seems like maybe less welding to put the whole channel in. What does the Forum think? Also I'm in Portsmouth VA and anyone in the area that would like to see the car and give me some pointers would be welcome. Also what are the recommended tools to trim the rusted metal away, Saws-all and a grinder? last, the pans are pretty beat too and can I drop the pan off one side fix the channel then replace the pan without actuall seperating the two or should I go all out put the body on a stand and all that. Also can I do this with a mig welder from Lowe's or am I getting in entirely over my head? The car is my driver and toy, not a restoration I hope to sell for top dollar.
Thanks, Ethan
1967 Sedan "The Rennwaffe"

Bobnotch · Post by **Bobnotch** » Sat Jul 05, 2003 9:03 pm

It sounds like you answered some of your own questions. Personally I'd replace the whole heater channel, but first I'd tack weld in some cross braces so the door gaps don't change. I only say that because once you cut the channel out you lose the support at the bottom holding them in place. You can do this in an "X" or just straight across. Also you might want to tie this into the tunnel section of the floor so the body stays put. After you replace the channels (checking the alignment of the bolts that go thru the pan), then you can do the pan work on that side, the remove (cut) your braces out and move them to the other side. One other piece of advice, try to get the best parts you can, some of the really cheap stuff out there is really cheap (quality), and most of it is very thin. Also as far as welding goes, try to get one that uses gas, NOT the gasless ones, as they require more work after you've already welded your stuff together. I hope this helps and gives you a couple of ideas on how to attack it.

RennWaffe67 · Post by **RennWaffe67** » Sun Jul 06, 2003 6:37 pm

Thanks Bob, I'll be buying a welder with Gas for sure. I've read posts that said using flux core with gas gives a really clean weld, I thought I'd test than out on my practice pieces. I'm reading my HP Books "Welder's handbook" again and getting ready to order good channels and pans. I'm sure I've got more rust than it appears so I am going to do the whole channel on each side, and fix the other spots in the wheel wells, of course.
I'm sure I'll be okay once i get started.

snowave · Post by **snowave** » Mon Jul 07, 2003 12:43 pm

Ethan,

I am currently replacing the heater channels on my 63 sedan. I have already replaced the floor pans. Originally I wanted to only replace the problems that I could see. Upon further evaluation and digging deeper I am glad I went for a total pan and heater channel replacement. I have attacked the rust problems with a body-off restoration. This has allowed better access for the pan replacement. Upon removal of the body I found many more rust problems on the inside (underside) of the door pillars. Bob's advice is right on for supporting the body while removing the heater channels themselves. I purchased my heater channels from Wolfsburg West and they appear to be of great quality. The floor pans were purchased from a separate vendor and they don't match as well as I would like to the heater channels. I recommend you purchase your parts from the same vendor, and make sure they are of good quality. Good luck, I should be welding my heater channels in place tonight.

RennWaffe67 · Post by **RennWaffe67** » Thu Jul 10, 2003 2:49 pm

So How'd you do Snowave? Got them Channels in? I'm changing my plan of attack. I don't have a garage to separate the body and protect the gas-mig welding so I'll be using flux core outside in the drive and doing a patch job on the rusted areas. This ain't no beauty queen. simply trying to preserve it more than restoration. I contemplated simply brazing patches on for now, but this is a really great excuse, erhh, reason to buy a welder. I found a site that detailed the repair of a 37 plymouth purchased in A1 restored condition but a later repaint to the original color revealed 8 patches were brazed together to form the rockers and lower A pillar, all over rust! My job should be quite a bit better than that. Hope your project is going well. Later, E

ghiahed · Post by **ghiahed** » Fri Jul 11, 2003 9:49 am

i'm tackling the same project right now also. i've got a 72 ghia and am replacing the drivers side heater channel this weekend and hopefull will have the second one ready next weekend. i'm going with flux only because i don't have the money right now to spend on a bottle and i need to get this car running asap... i'll post pics and progress as it happens..
seth

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Jul 11, 2003 10:44 pm

I am doing the same thing . I am replacing the heater channels and the front firewall of my bug. I think it would be better idea to go ahead and replace them instead of the patch work, there are a lot of spots you can not see until you remove them. I don't have a garage myself so i am just doing it in my driveway , removing the body and also using the gas set-up for welding. Few weeks ago replaced the front clip , i was in an accident and there is a very big different from using the flux core set-up , than using the gas set-up. Used both to try it out , i am definitely a first timer but you can notice the difference. Good luck with your repairs.