Bug Cabrio body alignment

Doc Jay · Post by **Doc Jay** » Wed Jun 18, 2003 10:56 am

Anybody have any experience with this - getting the gaps around the doors even etc? Does anyone sell a jig to put in place of the doors while you replace the heater channels, in order to get the correct alignment? The car has already sagged to the point where it is no longer possible to judge the alignment of the body and doors, plus the A-pillar bottoms are rotten and the hinges are slack making things even tougher.

Any bodywork gurus out there?

thanks

JC-ATL · Post by **JC-ATL** » Wed Jun 18, 2003 11:51 am

Aw, dude, good luck. You're heading on down a difficult path.

The only thing I could think of to do would be this: Get a long piece of square tube and a jack. Place the square tube along the edge of the car. Jack it up. When all the sag has been taken out of the body, test-fit the door. If it seems right, weld a couple pieces of tube across the door opening, and start doing your heater channel repair.

Disclaimer: I've never tried this, it's merely an idea.

Bobnotch · Post by **Bobnotch** » Wed Jun 18, 2003 10:14 pm

JC-ATL has the right idea, but you need to tie it into the floor too (unless doing a body off). I believe there was a place in Virginia that would sell/ lease a door fixture, but I can't remember their name. The only problem with using one of those fixtures is that you're supposed to weld it in before you start, while ALL your gaps are still good. After the gaps have changed, you're kinda on your own, and you're going to have to jack the body around until you get them like you want them (BTDT). I hope this helps.

thetwisteddragon · Post by **thetwisteddragon** » Wed Jun 18, 2003 11:16 pm

Bobnotch wrote:JC-ATL has the right idea, but you need to tie it into the floor too (unless doing a body off). I believe there was a place in Virginia that would sell/ lease a door fixture, but I can't remember their name. The only problem with using one of those fixtures is that you're supposed to weld it in before you start, while ALL your gaps are still good. After the gaps have changed, you're kinda on your own, and you're going to have to jack the body around until you get them like you want them (BTDT). I hope this helps.

The name of the place is Suplizio's Restorations and Customs. They sell the jig for $75 per side. The address is:

Restorations and Customs
10404 Central Park Drive
Manassas, VA 20110

The phone is :

(703) 361-3374

And finally the site is :

http://www.restocustoms.com (Which doesn't seem to work.

)

There you go.

Doc Jay · Post by **Doc Jay** » Thu Jun 19, 2003 2:52 am

Thanks for the replies guys.

I was thinking a bit further about this last night and I wondered about making up some jigs inside the door gaps of my Bug sedan, out of 1" box section. The doors on that thing close really nicely so maybe that would work. I was only a little worried about making the jigs up and then finding that they wouldn´t fit in the gaps on the Cabrio or something like that!

What do you think?

I wondered why the car was so cheap!!!

JC-ATL · Post by **JC-ATL** » Thu Jun 19, 2003 6:50 am

It might work, but there might be enough difference between the two cars that it doesn't.

Wow, that was a lot of help.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Jun 19, 2003 8:43 am

LOL - Do´nt worry - its all helpful.

Thats what i was wondering though. Are they going to be too different? Made in different factories at different times after all. The cabrio isn´t actually in two halfs (yet!) so I suppose it could be persuaded back into shape with a jack at the back and then welded, but that seems a bit vague somehow, although this isn´t exactly rocket science is it? Its just that the door gaps are usually pretty good on Bugs, its going to really bother me if it looks bad and I don´t want to be doing the job twice. If I do make these jigs and they are fractionally oversize, then they will definitely be able to be made to fit when the old `channels come out.

german rod · Post by **german rod** » Thu Jun 19, 2003 5:25 pm

mine has box tubing welded in an "X" in the door gaps to keep it true..http://www.streetsourcemag.com/viewowne ... leid=19069

quickkafer · Post by **quickkafer** » Fri Jun 20, 2003 12:11 am

The way I fixed mine was that I sold my car in NY (after paying $3500 worth of RUSTORATION), and moved to the dry desert of Las Vegas Nevada. I bought a 64 Vert out here that is SOLID as a rock. Enough smart ass comments...

I do have one problem though. I'm into the high performance Cal-Look scene and some body had a nice 2 liter that bent the frame the other way. Meaning that I don't have door sag, I've got reverse sag. The door gaps are larger at the top then they are at the bottom. A buddy of mine that had the same problem said it needs to be reverse bent with a come-along ratchet rigged up to the top of the door openings.

Scott Faivre

thetwisteddragon wrote:
Bobnotch wrote:
And finally the site is :

http://www.restocustom.com

Drop the "s".

metropoj · Post by **metropoj** » Fri Jun 20, 2003 4:52 am

All good suggestions, especially selling and getting another one !! Ha, but the challenge is turning a complete waste of time into something interesting ( and useable )

I have done both of the following :

1) The Welded X in the door jams works OK. I used this when my Squareback needed major surgery, body off. I tacked in my channels and lowered it down onto the body to ensure it all lined up. Closing the doors will ensure you're in line

2) Take a pair of old beetle doors that fit, cut the door bottoms below the bottom hinge out so that you can weld with the doors closed and tight, then weld in your channels. I like to finish weld once the frame and body are united to ensure my pan will line up correctly.

Good Luck = you're in for a treat ...

Doc Jay · Post by **Doc Jay** » Sun Jul 06, 2003 2:38 pm

[quote="quickkafer"]I do have one problem though. I'm into the high performance Cal-Look scene and some body had a nice 2 liter that bent the frame the other way. Meaning that I don't have door sag, I've got reverse sag. The door gaps are larger at the top then they are at the bottom. A buddy of mine that had the same problem said it needs to be reverse bent with a come-along ratchet rigged up to the top of the door openings.
[quote="thetwisteddragon"][quote="Bobnotch"]

No, I´m afraid they invariably bend that way due to old age - nothing to do with your motor. You are supposed to be able to sort this by putting thicker rubbers in the rear body mounts by the shocks - assuming its not caused by rust in the side strengtheners.

I probably should have bought a better car, but I´m sure never going to find a cheaper one.