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I have a 1973 Beetle.
Any tips on applying spray on Permatex rust treatment to the Frame Head Bottom Pan area under the master cylinder and on the opposite side?
This is the stuff that converts rust into a black finish.
I read the label and followed directions.
It says to keep away from moisture.
I thought a top coat would be a good idea.
Would Krylon white spray paint be OK without using a primer first?
TIA!

I looked on the Eastwood site about rust converter. It said to apply a top coat or the rust will return.
If I had used their rust encapsulator I would not have to apply a top coat.

I need to look into this. The 73 I'm towering at this very moment has some rusty spots that will need dealt with.

Bonemaro wrote:I need to look into this. The 73 I'm towering at this very moment has some rusty spots that will need dealt with.

I wish I had these products:
http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator-28585.html
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame- ... le-qt.html
POR 15 is a really good one but, it is harder to apply.
I used the POR 15 Fuel System Restoration and POR-20 high temp paint for a muffler
with good results.
http://www.por15.com/

This subject came up a while back: I have a can of Permatex/NAPA rust treatment and did use it per the instruction on the can:;instruction no.s 4 an 5 must be followed: apply 2 or 3 thin coats allowing no more than 2 minutes drying time between coats; then top coat after 24 hours. Keeping the coated parts away from "moisture and humidity" per the can's instructions in some places is kind of hard to do. As has been said, you are trying to seal out/keep oxygen out of the scenario (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust)

I plan on eventually soda blasting the entire car when the big restoration starts, but for now, I'd like to stop as much rust as I can get to.

Soda blasting is very interesting process to watch being done... when you can see through the white cloud as when they run out of soda in the tank and are refilling the tank. One of the guys I worked with had his MII Ghia (? it was a coupe anyway) soda blasted and I could find his house from quite a ways away by following the white pillar of dust hovering in the air (almost like a religious experience aka Moses).

When finished, the outside of the car was clean of paint, no damage to the glass; it was a slower process than I thought it would be though but bent over a blast cabinet is not that fast either . It also took quite a few bags of soda to do the job on a car similar in size to a bug. I never did hear if he ever finished the car after, I should do that one-of-these-days.

Lee

I had some rust on my floor pan project. Soda blasting with a hand held speedy blaster didn't really cut through the tough rust. It works great on soft parts like tail light sockets though.

I also tried a can of loctite rust converter they have it at home depot. It sprays on clear and wet. Two coats are supposed to neutralize rust then the surface is ready for cleaning and priming.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/s_trmt ... -Spray.htm

Hello all
I have used Mid America's Rust Converter on the front bumper of my RV (I replaced it with what the guy said was a painted bumper but turned out to be only primered) Put it on and forgot about it...needless to say it surfaced rusted. So far the converter is working great, only time will tell. I have used this stuff on an enclosed trailer and other small projects. But not the Super ...YET!! But so far so good.