seam sealer

[Chuco]

i was going to buy a seam sealer from eastwood. Will one tube be enough to seal the seams of my new pans.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I think so. These are the instructions I was given and how I have seen it done on the “how to” shows.

Prime the areas to sealed and put some paint on them to making sure that you get paint in any potential areas that there is or may be a gap. That is for rust proofing... just in case. Remember you want to do both sides of the pan as you are going to have seams on both sides.

Next, clean the area using compressed air, a dusting rag and then degrease with a high speed solvent such as acetone making sure you don’t remove the paint you just applied. Tape the areas off that you don't want seam sealer or paint on. You don’t need a wide area for the sealant.

Have a fairly short stiff brush and Acetone ready: squeeze a length of sealant where you want it then, using the acetone on the brush, push it into the seams and spread it out; try not to get a buildup on the tape as it will leave a ridge. You don't need a lot of sealer, just enough to close out the area. After you finish, remove the tape and admire what you have done.

I have a couple more things to add then this is the way I will attack it. Hopefully Ben from Ben’s collision will correct me if I am wrong on this.

Lee

[doc]

Seems to me, I bought a quart and it was way more than I needed to do everything. You might check your local auto parts store. Likely to be cheaper than eastwood and still a recognizable brand name. That's what i did. Forgotten brand. Eastwood stuff will certainly work.

doc

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Doc, I forgot to mention that the seam sealer I got was from NAPA (I'm looking at it as I write); it comes in a tube to be used in a calking gun. The p/n is 4301 and it is part of their PRO adhesives/sealants line. "Universal White Firm Seam Sealer"; is has a lot of descriptions such as flexible, firm gun grad sealant (I don't know what that means other than it could be that is it designed to be used in a calking gun), adheres to bare or primed metal, seals out air, moisture and dust. interior/exterior.. Since it is incased tube form is quite a bit different than in a can as you can (no pun intended) better estimate how far it would go.

It would not surprise me that other stores also carry it in a tube form also.

Just for the record.

Lee

Update: This stuff says it cures "firm setting" in 30 - 60 minutes, stays flexible, is toolable and sandable much different than what I have seen before. One of the product that a rodder/restorer recommended to me. Anyway, one of the products that is out there to consider.

[doc]

Seam sealer has been around for a 100 years and technological improvements in materials surely have made the product even better over the decades. I'm no expert, but it seems to me it's probably hard to make a bad choice here.

It's a messy job (of course, not so odd for me) so you might think about some gloves and a solvent soaked rag to keep things half way contained. Otherwise, it's just insuring that you get the sealer in every little crack. More is kinda better here. The stuff sorta "lays down" as it cures. Don't cut any corners. You're only gonna do this once for the rest of your life.

doc

[Randall Ramsey]

3M 83000 is the best I have ever seen. It is paintable and doesn't get hard. I picked mine up at the local paint shop.

Good luck

Randall

[bens collision]

Lee why would I correct you your dead on on brother! I would get two or three tubes though just cause that stuff can go quicker than u think and its not that expensive