Original paint configuration (well, how I bought it)
Used spray primer in some places after sanding out rust.
Bad attempts at sanding and stuff. Sanding discs are DANGEROUS with fiberglass, use higher than 100 grit or you'll take it off quick! Also...really not worth it because it takes forever and you go through a ton of discs. Sanding blocks (foamy things) worked well to get the loose paint off, and you can wash them off and reuse for a while.
Trying out the primer/paint gun.
We tarped up the garage (there was lots of stuff in there still, but only the car within the plastic tarps, which cost us probably under $20 total, and under $30 including tape and twine to keep it up), borrowed a friend's painting gun, and used an Ace brand primer. Lovely color, no?
Not a huge amount of room, but it worked. We did probably two coats of primer.
After a couple coats of paint! Probably 2 or 3, I forget actually. Laid down pretty well, no drips. Used a paint from a tractor supply store, and hardener, which was well worth the $7 or so. Should be noted that the underside of the fenders and the wheel wells were cleaned thoroughly and then painted black with Ace-brand spray can of Rust Stop. It looks pretty awesome, I think.
fusername after an afternoon of painting...he only wore the suit for the last coat!
More coats will be needed eventually, after sanding and such, but I only used half a gallon, so it's totally doable, and we rolled up the tarps to use again!
Cheap paintjobs, hooray! Also, thank goodness for friends.
saves on clean up.
With the cost of half gallon of base coat/clear coat upwards of $100 (and maybe a lot more) and the cost of professional painting in the thousands of dollars, you guys did great.