Parts list for a turbo build

[Joe vw]

You want to check the deck height left to right on the damaged piston at least to check for a tweaked rod. Compare it to the next cylinder deck too. Was the bottom end rebuilt on this engine? Rebuilt rods with good rod bolts and new rod bearings might be a good idea. Tricky but they can be installed without splitting the case. You do want to measure the rods assembled with bearings and the journals
I wouldn't have a problem using a good used piston, match the weight with the others. All I have seen are 93.98mm - measure the piston at the skirt. I don't know how well the Chinese pistons hold up to boost they may be fine -or not.
Buy quality rings like Hastings or Goetz, hone and inspect the cylinders. Cylinder pressure from boost does a good job of quickly seating rings.

[westypoo]

Well what is the known quality of the Pistons/cylinder kits from gowesty? Is their any other sites that I can get WBX parts from?

[Joe vw]

Go Westy forged pistons are made by J&E and probably the best made for running higher boost levels. I don't think they have a price -size list so you will have to call. These pistons are used in all their builds with re-bored stock cylinders. No need to go much larger than stock (making your cylinders thinner). http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=105
See if you can order them with 22mm wrist pins, then you can use inexpensive aftermarket type1 H-beam rods to increase strength and reduce weight. Beetle rods are the same as waterboxer with the exception of wrist size 22mm vs. 24mm.
http://www.rockyjennings.com/
Builds waterboxers and sells parts like lifter bore sleeves for type1 lifters so you can run a huge selection of solid lifter type 1 cams.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... ?id=727505

[westypoo]

well heres the pics of the spare motors bad piston.




i wanna say that im sorry for the late picture update. i finally got a new laptop. i bought the samsung Chrome book. seems to work very well for what i use a computer for...internet. well back on topic, my plan is to buy a set of pistons/ cylinders in 96mm from gowesty. throw them in the spare motor and hoping i can just throw the motor back together and hope it holds together long enough for me to drive it to vegas in a month. lol. ive never done a full build up on any motor really. i have a bentely manual for the wbx vanagon. would it be a good idea to split the case and measure rods and main bearings? can i split the case and check clearances and if all seem good, just re-essamble the case? i do realise for what little added cost i could just throw new bearings into it if all seems good, but i also know that once i split the case apart, i guess i might as well just go the full monty on a rebuilt bottom end. i think i need to just keep it simple to get the car back on the road, and worry about a full rebuild on the one that broke the valve off. some of my friends are saying to just use the motor that broke the valve off cause i know that the bottom end is in good shape, but my argument for that, is that im thinking that their may be some sort of metal stuff in the bottom end cause of the piston and valve damage. whats everyones thoughts? again i appreciate all the insight and knowledge that this forum brings to the table.

[buildabiggerboxer]

Since you asked, we have to say go through the motor, but if you hadn't asked and just sorted the top end and heads it would likely have been fine, I am constantly staggered at the high mileage condition of crank and bearings on these motors, if there is no Black Death apparent, they usually go on to the stratospheric milages, apart from the owner induced problems mentioned above, so at least pop the rod caps off and re shell the rod bearings, re torque to only 30/ 32 ft/lb with no further added angle, you're cylinder marking numbers are transposed incidentally, the motor has been run low on water causing the det' on that #2. If you live where it never freezes, you could up the boiling point by increasing the coolant content, I run 100 % coolant in race only Wassers, increasing the boiling point to over 160* with almost no pressure in the system due to reduced expansion, it will need a very sound cooling system to contain
It tho'.

[westypoo]

i gotta ask....whats the "black death" you speak of?

[buildabiggerboxer]

The Black Death is a heavy black sludge contaminating the engine internals due to poor or non existent maintenance schedules usually, cooling system problems like a removed t'stat and stop start city driving with the wrong oil and a lazy owner are good clues, it sticks like thick tar in the valve covers and rocker shafts and rocker chambers in the heads so you can't miss it.

[westypoo]

well tonight i got my other motor all put together. i ended up just buying new rings and since my old motor that blew up seemed to have fairly new pistons, i used the 3 pistons from my old motor, and all 4 cylinders. well while building the spasre motor, i broke the oil pump trying to get it out without using a puller. so i just robbed the oil pump from my old blown up motor. well tonight i started it and i realized that after about 3 minutes of it running, and the lifters all loud, i didnt have any oil pressure. and clues as to why? the oil pump outta my old motor i seemed to install correctly i hope. i also hope i didnt to any damage to the motor with no oil pressure.

[AMBROSIA]

Using the wrong pump / cam wheel combo maybe?
Pop the cover off the confirm the drive wheel is locating in the cam wheel properly.

[westypoo]

the problem ended up being that my old pump gears where bad and the fact that i had too thick of a gasket between the pump and the cover. but i went and got a new pump anyhow. all is good now. the spare motor is up and running now and im on low boost of only 5lbs till i get things more sorted with the tune on the car. today im gonna go try and tune it a little when i get done with yard work around the house. lol