Oxyboxer Few Clarification Questions

[zbo]

I swear I have read and searched, probably to the point I'm going to be fired!
But I think I like the Type 5 option a little more than the Type 4 due to parts
availability, interchangeability, exhaust, etc. etc...


So I'm going to purchase a Wasser Motor to convert to Oxy. I have read pages and pages of information dating back to 2003 or so.
I realize that this is not a cheap motor to build and that the case is far superior to the early cases and perhaps not much more superior
than the aftermarket type 1 cases available today. This motor will be a street motor used to intimidate hondas and the like
Type 5 Joe or Rocky will be contacted and contracted to do the required machine work.
That being said....Few Questions I have
(1) I have an opportunity to buy either a 1.9 or 2.1. I assume that you may as well start with the 2.1 for the 76mm stroke, correct?
(2) Bearings, there has been alot of talk about bearings and the availability or lack there of. Has this issue been resolved? I have read
using type 4 bearings, type 1 bearings, bmw bearings with a steel spacer or some such...just a little confused.
(3) I have seen where people are running larger bores above 94mm. I assume that they are using special heads, I have seen some running
aircraft heads, which apparently dont cool as well for a street application. If I wanted to go larger than the 94mm which heads are recommended?
(4) Is there anything in particular I should look for while inspecting the motors for puchase? I have (3) options lined up. #1 (1.9)- said that he had some
lifter noise and was tearing down to rebuild and decided to go Subi $150 complete, #2- (2.1)said he had water mixing with oil $150 complete, #3 (2.1)also had lifter noise $150 block and crank only
(5) Are there engine codes I should shy away from for any reason, or do all wassers from 1983 on lend thereselves to the conversion.

I think these questions get me to a point I can purchase the starting point. I really appreciate anyone who takes the time to respond.

Thanks,
Marc

[grelland]

I am by no means an expert, as my own build is moving at a very slow pace, but I can at least share the infor I have, then others will hopefulle chime in with more info.

1 Yes
2 I do not really know the current status, but when I sourced my bearings a couple of years back, a fellow Norwegian enthusiast had some sets on his shelf, so I bought a set of KS bearings from him
3 Others need to respond, as I have limited myself (and my budget) to 94mm barrels, and will probably end up with CB 044 type1 heads
4 From what I was informed when I was looking for a short-block, the issues with water/oil mixing is related to the heads, and if you will be replacing the heads anyways, that should not be of a major concern. Line-boring and crank-grinding is normally not an issue with this engines (which is the reason I go this route in the first place), and when it comes to lifters, I will replace them with solid T4 style ones, so unless you plan to keep the original hydro-lifters, I personally would not be too concerned. I paid the equivalent of $70 for my short block, and so far, everything is good in the bottom end.
5 I found some useful information on ThsSamba, but cant find the link. From what I understand, there was a change around '85 to a 3way split main bearing by the flywheel, but again I am no expert. My engine is a DJ, and according to the guys "in the know" this is a good starting point. Here is a summary of the features of that engine:

DJ Engine - 2.1l Waterboxer - FI
Technical Specifications

Vehicle Identification

capacity: 2109cc
production run: 2/1985 - 10/1992
output: 82kW - 112bhp DIN @4800 RPM
torque: 174Nm - 128 lb-ft @2800 RPM
bore: 94 mm
stroke: 76 mm
compression ratio: 10.5:1
fuel system: Bosch Digijet Injection
type: multi-point fuel injection - intermittient
air metering: flow

firing order: 1 - 4 - 3 - 2

Lubricants and capacities
engine oil: 10w30 (sf)
oil capacity with filter: 4.5 litres

[zbo]

Thanks Grelland....I'm probably only going to be able to afford some 044's as well.
I believe the engine code I'm looking at purchasing is MV. Can anyone confirm
for me that this block is a good start? It would be my luch to buy the one block that
nobody recommends.

thanks
Marc

[ajdenette]

I am prity sure we did not get the DJ in the US the engine the vanagons got after 85 was the 2.1 liter MV Engine

[zbo]

Thanks aj

[pocketrocket]

I would look at the MV engine code here in the USA, as the 1.9 engines have the old thrust brg. set up. The 2.1 and you get a 76mm WBX crank inside of the MV block so the 2.1 is the best deal. Put a Waterboxer crank next to any T-1 crank and you will see how much better the Waterboxer crank is. It comes semi counterweighted from the factory. I have two 2100cc drag engines running now that turn 7,500 rpm that run great, have one apart to check brg wear and the brgs all looked new.The thrust plates inner & outer with shims is the best thrust setup VW ever made. There is alot of talk in the T-1 crowd about the #2 brg being steel backed, heck in the 2.1 MV brgs the #1,2 & 3 main brgs are all steel backed.
If you want to use the t-1 doghouse fan housing on your oxy conversion, I have a oil cooler adapter on the thesamba.com look up (oxyboxer tower). Thanks Rocky

[zbo]

Thanks guys...pick my 2.1MV up October 6th..
Rocky I'll take a look at your add ...thanks for the info

[zbo]

Picked up the motor yesterday and it appears really clean. Any particular pics you guys would want to see? Now to start gathering parts.....this will be a street/ occasional strip build so I need to hammer a few things out.
1) heads
2) cam
3) pistons- planning on running AA 94's
4) carbs- thinking Cads but may go 40's or 44's
5) lifters

Then of course all of the required machine work....
I'll post some pics later
Marc

[zbo]

any thoughts on the Scat C45 Cam for an oxy 76x94?

[zbo]

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=140644
Have some of the parts from the wasser available...fair offer

[zbo]

So the spacer you use between the block and the type 1 cylinders for the oxy convserion is just so the cylinders sit right on the block and not a sealing point?

Thinking gonna do the T1 lifter conversion.

ON the cylinders, you have to buy B cylinders for strokers, correct?

On the essentric offset inserts to relocate the head studs, are the factory holes just enlarged and then these inserts welded in?


Thanks in advance
Marc

[grelland]

I dont have all the right asnwers, but here's my response:
So the spacer you use between the block and the type 1 cylinders for the oxy convserion is just so the cylinders sit right on the block and not a sealing point?
Answer: I will not be using a spacer, but machine the cylinders so they are just slightly smaller than the opening in the case

Thinking gonna do the T1 lifter conversion.

ON the cylinders, you have to buy B cylinders for strokers, correct?
I will be using A pistons ( I assume you mean pistons, not cylinders.. ) as I understand A types are ok up til 82mm stroke.

On the essentric offset inserts to relocate the head studs, are the factory holes just enlarged and then these inserts welded in?
Yes, again that is at least my plan, then others have to correct us if we are wrong

[58Dub]

good info. I would love to do one of these conversions.. Looking for a reasonably priced donor engine right now

[grelland]

I got my shortblock for the equivalent of $80.

[58Dub]

I got my shortblock for the equivalent of $80.

good job on that!