2276cc, 12:1 CR, Roller-Cammed Daily Driven Oxyboxer

Stripped66 · Post by **Stripped66** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 1:36 am

Passatman wrote:I have been reading this post for sometime now but forgot to ask, strippe what are the sleeves like do they still have any signs of the cross hatching on the sleeves.

Yeah, you can still see the cross-hatching inside the cylinders. I was planning on selling this set, but after I went out to the garage to inspect them (and answer your question), I found 1 cylinder had a huge crack from the bottom up to the area that seats against the case...probably resulting from having the cylinder turned down to fit the raised deck of the wasser case.

Good thing I have a new set...

Unkl Ian · Post by **Unkl Ian** » Fri Oct 24, 2008 6:17 pm

Stripped66 wrote: ... I found 1 cylinder had a huge crack from the bottom up to the area that seats against the case...probably resulting from having the cylinder turned down to fit the raised deck of the wasser case.

Is this a common problem ?

Stripped66 · Post by **Stripped66** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 12:19 am

Unkl Ian wrote:
Stripped66 wrote: ... I found 1 cylinder had a huge crack from the bottom up to the area that seats against the case...probably resulting from having the cylinder turned down to fit the raised deck of the wasser case.

Is this a common problem ?

The Mahle cylinders are pretty brittle. It's probably not common on a Type 1 case. But, the raised deck of the WBX case requires the cylinder to be turned about 0.700"...that's quite a lot and I'm not terribly surprised at the outcome considering the quality of these cylinders.

Stripped66 · Post by **Stripped66** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 12:19 am

...finally making some progress. I think.

My friend August welded up a set of CB Performance EFI end-castings for me. This guy has bailed me out of a few jams (since I've yet to learn how to weld) and is arguably the nicest guy I've met in the hobby. It was his first attempt at welding manifolds; I'm quite pleased how they turned out:

Everything from here on out is my handiwork...if it looks shoddy, call me out. This is my first try at manifold/cylinder head porting and chamber work. I've got an assortment of cartridge rolls, mandrels, and flap-wheels (60 to 180 grit). However, I wish I had a rotary file with a longer mandrel, and a longer mandrel for my flap wheels; this limits how far I can get into the port or manifold before the chuck of the die-grinder is blocking my view (and rubbing on the aluminum).

One manifold match-ported for the oval ports on my DRD L6's:

The inlet to the manifold is opened up and the wall between the ports has been pushed back and tapered. FWIW, the inner walls are not as lumpy as they appear (they are quite smooth, I must say). My smudgy finger marks and the "grain" left over from variable passes of the flap wheel give the appearance of lump/flat spots.

Exhaust valve guides have been cut down. The hump between the valve seats (opposite to the spark plug) has been removed, and the walls around the seats have been pulled back near the floor and made steeper. Overall, the quench area remains nearly the same (I pulled the wall around the exhaust valve slightly towards the cylinder). I picked up 3cc's in volume. Not much, but every little bit helps. The heads have since been bead-blasted and returned from the shop with a fresh valve-job. (sorry the picture quality isn't better...and carbon deposits are obscuring some of the contours around the seats, etc...oh well).

Unkl Ian · Post by **Unkl Ian** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 8:58 am

Do you need to drop the compression ?

Stripped66 · Post by **Stripped66** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 1:37 pm

Unkl Ian wrote:Do you need to drop the compression ?

Yes. Shooting for 9:1 and about 10-12 lbs of boost.

Passatman · Post by **Passatman** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 8:02 pm

Stripped this time you have to give us hp numbers.

Unkl Ian · Post by **Unkl Ian** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 9:08 pm

Stripped66 wrote: Yes. Shooting for 9:1 and about 10-12 lbs of boost.

Cool, guess I missed the turbo part.

Stripped66 · Post by **Stripped66** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 9:10 pm

What's HP worth to a giant e-hotshot like myself?

Yeah...maybe I'll get it dyno'd this time around.

Wally · Post by **Wally** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 2:50 am

That will be an awesome engine: big oxyboxer with turbo!
Nice pic of the roller lifters too. What do there pauter rollers weigh?
I was thinking about that sharp edge where the ' T' meets the flat side of the lifter; does this work (not wear out too soon) for longer running (street) engines? Was thinking if you would make it a thicker rounded piece, it may wear less.

What roller turbo cam did pauter advise?

Tnx!

Stripped66 · Post by **Stripped66** » Mon Nov 10, 2008 9:14 pm

Wally wrote:That will be an awesome engine: big oxyboxer with turbo!
Nice pic of the roller lifters too. What do there pauter rollers weigh?

I haven't weighed them; have to get back to you on that.

I was thinking about that sharp edge where the ' T' meets the flat side of the lifter; does this work (not wear out too soon) for longer running (street) engines? Was thinking if you would make it a thicker rounded piece, it may wear less.

It was the same design we used with the Isky's and there was no noticable wear due to the guide bar. Keep in mind, that bar is only indexing the lifters on the heel of the cam; when the lifter is under pressure, it pretty much indexes itself.

What roller turbo cam did pauter advise?
Tnx!

I've been running what Don's been running on his big-block powered Ghia. He recently stepped down to a smaller cam (248 @ 0.050", 0.510" lift) when he replaced his IDAs with fuel-injection. The RPM range of that cam seemed to suit what I was looking for with this rebuild, so I had them grind that same cam on 112 LCs.

Wally · Post by **Wally** » Wed Nov 12, 2008 12:38 am

Stripped66 wrote: It was the same design we used with the Isky's and there was no noticable wear due to the guide bar. Keep in mind, that bar is only indexing the lifters on the heel of the cam; when the lifter is under pressure, it pretty much indexes itself.

I didn't think of it in that way, but thats so true of course. Thanks for enlightening me

Very cool; one of the best/interesting builds I have seen in a long time!!

Stripped66 · Post by **Stripped66** » Wed Nov 12, 2008 9:45 am

Wally wrote:
Stripped66 wrote: It was the same design we used with the Isky's and there was no noticable wear due to the guide bar. Keep in mind, that bar is only indexing the lifters on the heel of the cam; when the lifter is under pressure, it pretty much indexes itself.
I didn't think of it in that way, but thats so true of course. Thanks for enlightening me

It's certainly not something I stumbled on by myself

Talking with Rocky and Don has certainly been an educational experience!

Very cool; one of the best/interesting builds I have seen in a long time!!

I appreciate the compliment. Hopefully this build will serve as a reference for those interested in trying something similar. I'd really like to see more people running roller cams on the street and some day establishing a large base of information (instead of simply a handful of combos that have been tested).

Unkl Ian · Post by **Unkl Ian** » Sun May 31, 2009 6:13 pm

How is the motor running ?

Stripped66 · Post by **Stripped66** » Wed Jun 03, 2009 2:27 pm

Unkl Ian wrote:How is the motor running ?

I've been having major tuning issues with the EFI to get it to run through the RPM range under full power. Because of that, I haven't gone beyond 7 psi of boost. That said, I still drive it regularly, and occasionally commute (~120-150 miles per week)...the milder roller cam seems to purr at freeway speeds much better than the last cam.