1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

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Dean...
Posts: 118
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:44 pm

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Mon Sep 25, 2017 8:09 pm

Distributors are interesting things!

It's a electric fuel pump, remember? I also installed a new filter and I've even tried running the engine with the gas cap off.



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Ol'fogasaurus
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Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 1:17 am
Location: Just north of Seattle

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Ol'fogasaurus » Mon Sep 25, 2017 9:36 pm

No, I had forgotten otherwise I would have checked on the pressure limiter too. :lol:

I'm in a lot of pain right now besides being old :roll: . There's a new strain of cold going around here and it is really, really panful. Sorry

Dean...
Posts: 118
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:44 pm

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Mon Sep 25, 2017 10:01 pm

Lee mate, all good!!

There is a virus going around here, my wife has been sick for a couple weeks. Yesterday was the first time she has been out of bed for more than a couple minutes!

Take care of yourself!

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Dean...
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Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Wed Sep 27, 2017 3:51 am

I think it's official..... I'm poop at this

Fuel pump arrived so I installed it. Fuel pressure on the new gauge shows zero so it's obviously poop too.

It's late here now, getting dark. Before I called it quits the engine was just dying for no apparent reason, it seemed to me to be electrical but who knows, I'm poop at this so it is just as easily be because I walked around the car in an anti-clockwise fashion rather than clockwise.

Ok rant over, but seriously this is sending me mad.

I am finding that when I am setting the mixture for number one, I screw it in and it's starting to run better and then I can't screw it in any further.

I thought it had it set pretty good at one stage, I could rev it most of the time pretty nice, so I took it for a quick drive and it drove like poop, it won't rev because it bogs down and likes to do a backfiring.

Lee, I hope you're feeling better mate!

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Dean...
Posts: 118
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:44 pm

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Wed Sep 27, 2017 3:52 am

Haha it censored my post lol

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Dean...
Posts: 118
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Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Wed Sep 27, 2017 4:41 am

Is there a way to buy a couple cheap sensors, weld them on each pipe coming from each cylinder, and then use a multimeter to see what the mixture is?

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Ol'fogasaurus
Posts: 13103
Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 1:17 am
Location: Just north of Seattle

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Ol'fogasaurus » Wed Sep 27, 2017 12:25 pm

"Lee, I hope you're feeling better mate!"

Thanks for the concern. What I have is either the flu or a new version of a cold; what ever... is it very, very uncomfortable.

Looking at the spark plug's tips, what are they telling you; e.g., wet, dry, black, brown, white? I n the "old days" we would pull them and look at them after every change/correction you make. Did you do a test on your plug and high tension wires/leads to make sure that they are in the best of shapes (I have had them bad out of the box before. I try not to assume as accident can happen and so can poor workmanship. I have sat in on problem solving meetings when the reason for the problem suddenly came from an out of the blue based; something that should not have been considered being done in the first place. Mistakes are always there, free for the taking :lol: ).

Dean...
Posts: 118
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:44 pm

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Sat Sep 30, 2017 8:44 pm

Update!

Leads have been tested and are all good. Not anymore though..... I was pulling leads off to test how much each cylinder was firing, and a lead got caught in the fan belt. It also took with it the top of the Magnaspark 2 distributor cap!!

Anyways, here is where I am: I took the fuel cap off and now I have decent fuel pressure! I get all the cylinders tuned but can't set number one right. No matter what I do it runs rich. I screw in the mixture screw and when it's about an eighth or so out from all in, the revs go up. I screw it all the way in, and it's running faster but you can tell that it wants more lean adjustment, but there isn't any left.

But here is another issue that I just realised..... Say I start at number 2, then go to number 4, then to 3 and then to 1; I adjust number 2 and the revs go up a fair bit. I adjust 4 and it doesn't really go up as such, it's really just matching number 2. This is the same for number 3, BUT number 1 wants to rev a lot more than all the rest, yet the air flow is almost the same according to the snail gauge. Is this significant?

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66brm
Posts: 186
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Location: Perth, Western Australia, The Southern Hemisphere

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by 66brm » Sat Sep 30, 2017 11:49 pm

What rpm is it doing at idle? You may have the progression ports open, also need to make sure that each throat reads the same or you may have a twisted throttle shaft.

Dean...
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Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Sat Sep 30, 2017 11:59 pm

It's idling at about 850. Number 2&4 suck the same, 1&3 probably suck 0.5 more which should be fine

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Dean...
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Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Sun Oct 01, 2017 3:18 am

I just found what is probably a significant issue... The auxiliary vents have been installed upsidedown

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Ol'fogasaurus
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Location: Just north of Seattle

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Ol'fogasaurus » Sun Oct 01, 2017 7:08 am

Dean... wrote:
Sun Oct 01, 2017 3:18 am
I just found what is probably a significant issue... The auxiliary vents have been installed upsidedown

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So... instead of things going out they come in? :roll: :lol: I hope it is something as simple as that.

Lee

Dean...
Posts: 118
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:44 pm

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Mon Oct 02, 2017 3:28 am

Things weren't that simple unfortunately...

The auxiliary vents were definitely installed upsidedown, but I still can't tune cylinder number 1.

Here is a video I just took : https://youtu.be/5CgcMF03FpI

I was just watching the old videos I posted and it seems to me that it's doing exactly the same thing.

If I have a problem with the gap of the tappets, would that cause the issue with cylinder number 1?

The things I really don't think could be causing the issue, and why:

Leads - I have tested them, but I'm now using another set
Distributor - issue was there when the Magnaspark setup was being used, and now I'm back to the 009
Timing - set at 32 degrees full advance
Fuel pump - I'm currently using the third electric pump
Fuel filter - has been replaced twice
Fuel lines - no problems from the tank to the fuel pump, I got soaked once when I changed the pump. The line from the pump to the engine has been cleaned using compressed air
I have set the float many times

As you can see in the video, it appears to be running rich, which is cylinder number one, but I can't get it any leaner. But I didn't have that issue before, yet the engine seems to be running exactly the same way.

I don't remember ever trying a different ignition coil, so that will probably be the next thing I'll try. I'll also check the valves tomorrow morning and pull the spark plugs. But I'm not sure how any of this will relate to the issue regarding cylinder number one.

I feel I'm very quickly running out of options, and with me currently out of work, that doesn't leave much money for a mechanic. I feel the issue must be right in front of me, but I just can't see it...

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Dean...
Posts: 118
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:44 pm

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Mon Oct 02, 2017 3:45 am

I just had a thought! I'll try to explain

This all started because we had heaps of rain and the carbs filled up with water and then so did the cylinders. When the engine is turned off, the carb butterflies are closed, just below those little holes, I think they are called progressive circuit or something. This section of the carb is not easy to clean, I've sprayed carb cleaner in that area and blew compressed air in the holes, but is it possible that inside/behind The holes it's still full of crap?

Anyways, the plan for tomorrow is this:

Go over the set of 40's I have and install them, check tappets, and then try to get the car running. If it doesn't work right, I'll swap the coil.

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66brm
Posts: 186
Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2010 8:55 pm
Location: Perth, Western Australia, The Southern Hemisphere

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by 66brm » Mon Oct 02, 2017 9:11 pm

Are the fuel enrichment circuits OK? Check that the plungers are still up on that carb. It would explain the richness on that cylinder and can be caused by water getting in
Keep your chin up mate I was out of work for 10 months last year, it'll turn right

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