1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Who is the best person to rebuild your engine? You...

Moderator: sparkmaster1

Dean...
Posts: 122
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:44 pm

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Wed Sep 06, 2017 12:41 am

Thank you for your advice!

The carbs have been cleaned, but they are at the mechanics to get done properly by someone other then me lol

The same mechanic is going to let me borrow his tool to retorque the flywheel, so I'm covered there

I was going to give the engine a good flush on the inside, but I'm really running out of time, and the car has had a couple oil changes since the water incident, so I think I'll have to give that a miss.

I'll be able to pick the heads up in about 21 hours so hopefully the engine will be done and in the car in the next 48 hours!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


Dean...
Posts: 122
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:44 pm

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Thu Sep 07, 2017 1:46 am

I picked up the heads today. The mechanic again talked about how they were in really good condition before he did any work to them, so that again was comforting. This is a VW Mechanic who is he regarded in my area, so it was good hearing him say that! He said the valves were good, and that they didn't look like they had had much action. He repaired number 1 spark plug hole too and checked the others.

So I'm home now beginning to put things back together. Right now though I'm playing around with the tinware, patching holes and giving them a quick coat of paint. Which reminds me... I know there are many people who say that Chrome tinware is not the way to go, but I've been thinking about it and I think it actually makes sense. You don't want the heat from underneath the engine to come through to the top, and chrome is reflective so it would stop some heat from getting through, whereas most people, including me, paint the tinware black, which will actually help soak the heat from underneath to the top area, which is where we don't want it. Any thoughts?

Anyways, here is a pic of what I'm working on right now Image

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


Dean...
Posts: 122
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:44 pm

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Thu Sep 07, 2017 6:45 am

This can't be good : https://youtu.be/nC3aFe8-KN4

I managed to stop it from moving a bit, but it still does move. The oil pressure gauge has always shown low pressure, but I always thought it was the gauge because I haven't had any other symptoms. Now I think it's been sucking in air all along. I am able to blow through the pipe and can hear the air coming from somewhere, but I don't think that really means anything. It isn't easy to blow.

Right now I'm thinking that I'm going to have to split the case, just to fix this up ️

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


Dean...
Posts: 122
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:44 pm

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Thu Sep 07, 2017 7:34 am

Can anyone point me in the right direction for instructions to apply the case just enough to fix this issue? I would like to try and make sure that no bearings etc fall out.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


Ol'fogasaurus
Posts: 13221
Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 1:17 am
Location: Just north of Seattle

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Ol'fogasaurus » Thu Sep 07, 2017 1:22 pm

If I remember correctly at hot idle the oil pressure should be around 10#s and going up about 10#s per 1000 rpms to a top of 60#s. The red light comes on/flickers at ~7#s (depending on various things).

As far as hearing an air leak or the tube "wandering" I don't think I have ever heard that discussed before but, as I remember (its been well over 10 years since I had to pull a VW engine apart), the pickup tube is supported by a tab going to one of the drain cover bolts which could have loosened up (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xfAxH_ysP0).

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view ... ajaxhist=0

Stripped bolt in the above URL

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view ... ajaxhist=0

I hope this helps.

Dean...
Posts: 122
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:44 pm

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Thu Sep 07, 2017 7:58 pm

Thanks Lee

Oil pressure has never been to spec, but the oil pressure light has never come on when it shouldn't, Anna there have never been any worrying noises, so I blamed the gauge.

The case has been split. It's my first time doing this and I was really worried I'd have bearing dropping everywhere, etc, but once I spotted the nut I forgot lol it was all good. Even the lifters played nice and fell in order!

I checked the clearances of the pump, and the lash between the gears is more than double what is allowed, so I'm currently driving to pick up a new pump.

Slowly getting there Image

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


Dean...
Posts: 122
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:44 pm

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Fri Sep 08, 2017 3:34 am

Things were going good for a while. I got home with the new pump and started building the case again. I put it all together, and just as I get to the torque for the first nut, I hear a crack! The stud is pulling out of the case. It's the first one you have to torque, the one right next to the cam.

Tomorrow I'll drill the hole and tap it. Then hopefully I'll be back on my way.

By the way, anyone seen the gears I have on the cam? Weird looking ImageImage

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


66brm
Posts: 192
Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2010 8:55 pm
Location: Perth, Western Australia, The Southern Hemisphere

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by 66brm » Fri Sep 08, 2017 7:22 am

Cam gear is an old school racers trick

Dean...
Posts: 122
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:44 pm

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Fri Sep 08, 2017 8:28 am

In what way?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


heli-easy
Posts: 87
Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 8:29 pm
Contact:

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by heli-easy » Fri Sep 08, 2017 3:40 pm

On a stock gear the centrifugal force pushes the oil out the side along the gear teeth. The two grooves allow the oil to get trapped and follow the gear till it hits the other gear again. I could be wrong, but that thats my best guess.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

66brm
Posts: 192
Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2010 8:55 pm
Location: Perth, Western Australia, The Southern Hemisphere

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by 66brm » Sat Sep 09, 2017 6:55 am

Who built the engine originally? Do a Google image search for gene berg cam gears...

Dean...
Posts: 122
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:44 pm

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Sat Sep 09, 2017 6:48 pm

The second pic I find!

The engine was build by Richard HolzlImage

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


66brm
Posts: 192
Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2010 8:55 pm
Location: Perth, Western Australia, The Southern Hemisphere

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by 66brm » Sun Sep 10, 2017 8:22 am

I guessed Richard had some input as soon as I saw the vforce sticker and berg mod on the gear, it's possible the crank is also an early welded berg unit

Dean...
Posts: 122
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:44 pm

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Sun Sep 10, 2017 3:39 pm



The crank is a Pobjoy crank.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


Dean...
Posts: 122
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 4:44 pm

Re: 1916 Top end rebuild - what should I look out for?

Post by Dean... » Mon Sep 11, 2017 6:30 am

I was really progressing, and then I realised I forgot the pieces of tin that sit under the cylinders just above the pushrod tubes. Image

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


Post Reply