flywheel gaskets
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bugtub
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2014 12:00 pm
flywheel gaskets
Hi sorry for the basic question we all have to start somewhere. In the gasket set there are two gaskets one steel one paper that go behind the flywheel when I took the engine apart there was nothing so do I need them and which one goes against the crank
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turboblue
- Posts: 3969
- Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2003 12:01 am
Re: flywheel gaskets
What engine are you working on?
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bugtub
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2014 12:00 pm
Re: flywheel gaskets
Should of said type 1 1600
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Marc
- Moderator
- Posts: 23741
- Joined: Thu May 23, 2002 12:01 am
Re: flywheel gaskets
In mid`66, the crank & flywheel were redesigned to accommodate an O-ring seal, making the gasket superfluous - if you have an O-ring crank/flywheel, no gasket is required (or desired). Check that there are no raised burrs on the flat mating surfaces (knock them down with a whet stone if you find any), and polish off any nicks or corrosion on the snout of the crank so there'll be nothing to damage the O-ring when the flywheel is installed.
Check/set the crankshaft endplay before installing the O-ring or the front seal, put those in (lightly lubricate the seal lips) just before final installation of the flywheel.
If working with an early, non-O-ring, crank you'll need to use a gasket. The metal one is preferred IMO; it adds ~.012" to the endplay while the paper one adds ~.008", so the endplay adjustment must be made with the same type of gasket as will be used for final assembly.
Generally speaking, if you add either gasket to an O-ring crank/flywheel you'll have more endplay than desired unless you resort to using four shims (not that there's anything really wrong with that) but there's typically no circumstance which justifies that combination. Some crank grinders will routinely take material off of the end of the crank to "square" it, an operation that has no adverse consequences on most engines...but on the ACVW it can create a problem when setting the endplay; adding one of those gaskets is a pragmatic quick fix in that situation.
Those aren't the only "extra" gaskets you'll find in the 111 198 007AF gasket set, either. They give you 6 oil cooler seals (2 early Type III, 2 each early & late Type I) and 8 rocker stud seals - the "wedding-band" seals only work on ancient 1500 heads, and on some replacement heads there isn't even room for the smaller O-ring-style ones. There'll be six fatter O-rings for the main case studs, but pre-`68 cases don't accept them. You'll find oil pump gaskets for both early 6mm-stud and late 8mm-stud cases, a strange round paper ring that's only used on Type III cooling fans, and of course both single- and dual-port intake manifold gaskets. Just because they're in the kit doesn't mean you have to use them
...many builders prefer to omit the paper rings under the cylinders and use a thin film of RTV instead - but if you're working with used cylinders that can cause the top piston ring to collide with the "ring-ridge" near the top. Metal shims are available (typically in .010" thickness increments) to use instead to avoid this and/or to set the piston deck height for the desired compression ratio. If you're working on a dualport Type I with the "doghouse" cooler and want to renew all of the cooler seals, you'll need a couple more 021 117 151A; if adapting a large-passage cooler to a small-passage case (or vise-versa) you'll need a conversion-seal kit, 111 198 029.
Check/set the crankshaft endplay before installing the O-ring or the front seal, put those in (lightly lubricate the seal lips) just before final installation of the flywheel.
If working with an early, non-O-ring, crank you'll need to use a gasket. The metal one is preferred IMO; it adds ~.012" to the endplay while the paper one adds ~.008", so the endplay adjustment must be made with the same type of gasket as will be used for final assembly.
Generally speaking, if you add either gasket to an O-ring crank/flywheel you'll have more endplay than desired unless you resort to using four shims (not that there's anything really wrong with that) but there's typically no circumstance which justifies that combination. Some crank grinders will routinely take material off of the end of the crank to "square" it, an operation that has no adverse consequences on most engines...but on the ACVW it can create a problem when setting the endplay; adding one of those gaskets is a pragmatic quick fix in that situation.
Those aren't the only "extra" gaskets you'll find in the 111 198 007AF gasket set, either. They give you 6 oil cooler seals (2 early Type III, 2 each early & late Type I) and 8 rocker stud seals - the "wedding-band" seals only work on ancient 1500 heads, and on some replacement heads there isn't even room for the smaller O-ring-style ones. There'll be six fatter O-rings for the main case studs, but pre-`68 cases don't accept them. You'll find oil pump gaskets for both early 6mm-stud and late 8mm-stud cases, a strange round paper ring that's only used on Type III cooling fans, and of course both single- and dual-port intake manifold gaskets. Just because they're in the kit doesn't mean you have to use them
...many builders prefer to omit the paper rings under the cylinders and use a thin film of RTV instead - but if you're working with used cylinders that can cause the top piston ring to collide with the "ring-ridge" near the top. Metal shims are available (typically in .010" thickness increments) to use instead to avoid this and/or to set the piston deck height for the desired compression ratio. If you're working on a dualport Type I with the "doghouse" cooler and want to renew all of the cooler seals, you'll need a couple more 021 117 151A; if adapting a large-passage cooler to a small-passage case (or vise-versa) you'll need a conversion-seal kit, 111 198 029.