OK, the motor runs hot in general. I have a CHT gauge, and it reads about 350 cruising at 3000rpm. And the dipstick is hot to the touch when its up to operating temp. I have EVERY piece of tin in place, and new engine seals in too.
I know the 10psi for 1k rpm rule, and with my engine running around 20psi at 3k rpm, that is what raised the final flag for me, even after the deep sump.
The relief valve idea may be valid. I have had this problem for a while, and actually took both pistons and springs out and made sure they fit and slide up and down freely, but there may have been a few pieces of crap that got stuck in there for what ever reason after the cleaning, and now holding them up.
For some reason i feel that it is the oil pick up tube that has a leak in it from the tube to the case, and is now sucking air. Also it could be that i didn't tap and plug the case, only the oil pump. It could also be a bad batch of Shadek oil pumps that don't have a good seal on them in the case that a lot of people are talking about. It could also be...a few other things i guess.
I can't not believe the oil light/psi readings because they go hand in hand. When the psi gets to around 8 the light kicks on, and it wont go away till i rev it up to 2k rpm and then get about 10psi (when at operating temp). Im about the stick the original oil pressure sender on there and see what happens. http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... DO-360-009
this is the sender unit i have, and the notched part that is facing us is the part that i have facing up (on top). I did it that way because that is the way the letters are oriented correctly.