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ive looked all over for HP estimates for a 94mm machine in p and c's , all stock , stock 69mm crank, stock dp heads(machines for 94mm) , literally just have it machined to fit and re assemble, is this worthe doing for a 1915, or is it better to go 1835, ive seen the thick wall 92mm cylenders that look good! ..... the only not stock thing i will be using is dual kardon 40/44 ... i just need a rough estimate

Will you be running heater boxes? IMO 1915cc is pushing it with stock 'boxes, even though the engine probably won't be revved above ~4500RPM. What kind of driving, and what's the gearing and rear tire size?

I'd imagine that one reason you've had a hard time finding HP estimates is that it's unusual to bore an engine out and retain the stock cam - with the breathing limitations imposed by that (and stock heads) a larger engine is going to run out of breath at a lower RPM than a stocker. Therefore the peak horsepower won't be impressive, what you're gaining is low-end grunt/throttle response (at the expense of fuel economy, usually).

I'd be inclined to go with the thickwall 92s unless there's a compelling need to get the most torque off-idle possible. They (and the 94s) can be machined to fit into a case cut for late 90.5/classic 92, worth considering if you've got 10mm head studs.

IMO it's a must to have the crank & flywheel 8-dowelled, even an 1835 (or for that matter a 1775) will be capable of separating the stock setup if launched hard. Use an oversized glandnut washer and an undercut glandnut (to keep it from rubbing on the clutch disc with the thicker washer)...Berg's GB202 is $25 well-spent here.

60-70 HP.

Like all engines, when you change one thing others will be affected. Just boring a otherwise stock motor won't gain much peak power. Now a bore and stroke, cam, heads, exhaust, and big carbs will make a huge difference. I'm with Minami, around 60-70hp.

Reminds me of that vid on youtube of this guy that built a big dollar 2332 or maybe it was a 2110, but all it made on the dyno was 102whp, lolololol. He didn't get the combo right.

ok ok , ive decided , after doing much internet research, 8 dowel , full flowed, engle 110 , 92mm thick walls , is the best "budget" build for the money, anyone have this combo? how does it sound to you guys?

don't forget bigger valved heads too, maybe 40x35.5's

There's really no point in using big valve heads, the displacement/cam/exhaust certainly don't call for it IMO...

If you're sticking with a stock (non-counterweighted) crankshaft you shouldn't be planning on over 5500RPM...a stock valvetrain can handle that, but I'd recommend beefing it up a bit. Adding "solid" rockershafts, HD single valvesprings, and CrMo or HD aluminum pushrods now will probably spare you some grief in the future.
Mild intake porting would be worthwhile (at the very least be sure to match-port the heads & manifolds) but again you should be shifting by ~5000RPM so there's no point in going very far here.
You should get the bottom end balanced; if you want to lighten the flywheel by a few pounds, do that before balancing. How heavy's the car, what's the gearing/tire size and usage?
Will you always feed it the fuel octane it needs or might you be prone to "cheaping out" if the price goes up?

For a mild 1915, I like all of marc's suggestions, a engle 110 or maybe just a engle 100, the limitation is going to be the heads. With the kadrons and a regular header it will be a fun little motor for daily'ing.

Check these engine combos and come down to a reality

http://www.johnmaherracing.co.uk/perfor ... maries.htm


Engine Type 1, 1776cc
Cam Engle 110
Carbs Dellorto 40 DRLA x 2
Heads 1600 twin port (35.5 x 32mm)
Compression ratio 7.6:1
Max BHP 101.7bhp @ 5500rpm
Max Torque 110.5ftlbs @ 3500rpm
Ring & Pinion 3.88
Gear Ratios 3.78/2.06/1.26/.92
0 - 60mph 7.4 seconds
1/4 mile 15.86 @ 84.7mph

Stock heads are probably little ported and case may be new. Cam, heads and dual carbs help a lot, maybe at least 30hp. Stock valvesizes are good to about 100-110hp on a streetengine, but you need definetly porting and good valvesprings if aiming over +80hp.


Here is another 1776cc, again cam and heads make big change, +20hp more:

Engine Type 1, 1776cc
Cam Engle 120
Carbs Dellorto 40 DRLA x 2
Heads JMR 044 (40 x 35.5mm)
Compression ratio 8.5:1
Max BHP 124.9 @ 6100rpm
Max Torque 120.1ftlbs @ 5000rpm
Ring & Pinion 4.37
Gear Ratios 3.78/2.06/1.26/.89
0 - 60mph 6.45 secs
1/4 mile 14.98 @ 88.53mph

I bought my 1915cc from GPAS Check http://www.greatplainsas.com/sclgblock.html

looks like minami's numbers were right on the mark.

I've just purchased a 1915cc engine to the following spec for my 550 Spyder replica. Quoted 110/120bhp, does this sound right running on twin 40 idf webers?

Aluminium race case full flow oil and bored to 94mm
Steel back main bearings
Dual thrust cam bearings
Counterweighted 69mm crankshaft
Crankshaft gear assembly kit
12v lightened flywheel 200mm 8 dowel
Balanced rotation assembly
Heavy duty gland nut
I beam concords with 3/8 ARP rod bolts
94mm barrels and pistons
200mm clutch kit
Engle FK8 camshaft
Straight cut cam gears
Scat cam lightweight followers
German oil pick up pipe
3.5 litre deep sump
40 x 35.5 big valve, mini wedge port cylinder heads with dual HD springs
Heavy duty 1.4:1 ratio rockers
Stainless steel push rod tubes
Chromoly push rods
Stainless steel rocker covers
26mm oil pump
Full flow steel oil pump cover
Stage 1 Kennedy clutch with solid friction plate

Cheers.
Al.

That should be in the neighborhood, maybe a bit more than advertised. The FK8 with 1.4s is a lot of lift for that engine (.530 lift and 260 duration or thereabouts). Aggressive ramps. Should peak about 6000 or a little above, assuming the springs are right.

Mine's the same basic engine with an Engle W125 (.460 lift and 260 duration, but with stock ratio rockers), and Weber 44s. Raby made a series of these and they all tested between 120 and 125 hp at 5500 with about the same torque at 4000.