I picked up an original Manx SR this past weekend with the intent of a minor restoration. Overall it's in very good shape, save for the pans. Motor runs well, tranny is marginal but serviceable.
After looking at how it's put together I've made the decision to remove the body to expose the frame, thereby enabling a proper pan/perimeter fix for the rust that's existing. Now, since the body will be off, I will be installing all new brake lines, M/C, hardware, shoes, etc. just to be on the safe side, and probably re-wiring the thing just because.
What would be on your short list of things to check/replace on a limited budget? Ball joints? Torsion bars? Shocks are a definate replacement; everything else is up for grabs. Budget probably won't exceed $1K at this point, but you never know.
Suggestions?
Rick
What's on your short list?
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Mike T
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2001 12:01 am
Re: What's on your short list?
Replace the rubber brake hoses too. These can swell shut with age.
Don't go too stiff on the front shocks on this light car.
When you rewire make sure you have good grounds.
Use big washers when you bolt the fiberglass panels back together and the body back on the pan. Fender washers work good for that.
Is your shift bushing in the tunnel OK?
How are the tansaxle mounts?
Check that the Bowden tube is installed correctly or your clutch may chatter..
Don't go too stiff on the front shocks on this light car.
When you rewire make sure you have good grounds.
Use big washers when you bolt the fiberglass panels back together and the body back on the pan. Fender washers work good for that.
Is your shift bushing in the tunnel OK?
How are the tansaxle mounts?
Check that the Bowden tube is installed correctly or your clutch may chatter..
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werka
- Posts: 132
- Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 7:44 am
Congrats on the Manx SR pickup. I have one of the first series ones (hinges not on top of the doors).
Check out
http://www.manxsr.com/
if you havent already. I am currently re-assembling the motor (2110 turbo) at a snails pace. I hope to drive it again this summer.
Check out
http://www.manxsr.com/
if you havent already. I am currently re-assembling the motor (2110 turbo) at a snails pace. I hope to drive it again this summer.
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letterman7
- Posts: 484
- Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 8:17 pm
Thanks, guys. Mike, all that is in the works. I plan to pull the motor and replace the clutch and all the mount points just to do it. All the cables will be replaced; I already have stainless braided brake lines in stock, as well as all new brake parts. I'm considering upgrading to front discs, but haven't made that decision final yet. I had to replace the bushing and the shift cage bushings because the PO couldn't get it into reverse - no wonder - no bushing at the shifter!
Werka - Nice - that's the series I just picked up. Do you have a hard top and windows for yours? I have the Manx website bookmarked, but it's not updated regularly, and the webmaster hasn't returned any of my emails!
Rick
Werka - Nice - that's the series I just picked up. Do you have a hard top and windows for yours? I have the Manx website bookmarked, but it's not updated regularly, and the webmaster hasn't returned any of my emails!
Rick
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werka
- Posts: 132
- Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 7:44 am
Thats cool that you got a SR1. There was an article a few years back in Hot VWs or VW trends on the Manx SR. Said there are 28 left and they didn't know about mine (originally my fathers).
I have a canvas top for mine (its as old as the car). It is in good shape, but I don't like how the car looks with it. My dad also "made" some side windows. The more I looked at them the less I liked them. They are now gone. I wanted the car to look somewhat like it is suppose to look. That said, the rear decklid has some grills from a fiero to help vent the heat off the motor. Also has a vent on each side to draw in air for 2 external oil coilers. The turbo dumps a lot of heat.
As for the brakes. I have a set of rear disk breaks and drums up front. I would recommend upgrading to the disk breaks (front or rear). Most of the vehicle weight is in the rear, but in most cars most of the stopping force is up front.
Sorry for the long winded response.
BOB
I have a canvas top for mine (its as old as the car). It is in good shape, but I don't like how the car looks with it. My dad also "made" some side windows. The more I looked at them the less I liked them. They are now gone. I wanted the car to look somewhat like it is suppose to look. That said, the rear decklid has some grills from a fiero to help vent the heat off the motor. Also has a vent on each side to draw in air for 2 external oil coilers. The turbo dumps a lot of heat.
As for the brakes. I have a set of rear disk breaks and drums up front. I would recommend upgrading to the disk breaks (front or rear). Most of the vehicle weight is in the rear, but in most cars most of the stopping force is up front.
Sorry for the long winded response.
BOB
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letterman7
- Posts: 484
- Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 8:17 pm
Damn, Mike! You'll just have to take the seats out, that's all! 
Seriously, though, one of our club members is 6'4", and his seat in his Sterling is up against the rear bulkhead. He claims to have enough headroom with a dropped pan.....
You're more than welcome to try mine on for fit at Carlisle this year. Look for the green and black car - here's to hoping for no rain!
Rick
Seriously, though, one of our club members is 6'4", and his seat in his Sterling is up against the rear bulkhead. He claims to have enough headroom with a dropped pan.....You're more than welcome to try mine on for fit at Carlisle this year. Look for the green and black car - here's to hoping for no rain!
Rick
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Mike T
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2001 12:01 am
Many years ago I had a Street driven Manx (a real one) and had no special issues with fitting. Of course I was younger and lighter (but no shorter!). I had bucket seats from an Opel Manta in it but later went to some dunebuggy fiberglass shell seats. It was much more fun to drive snugged down into the car instead of perched up on those taller seats. This is why I believe I might fit comfortably in a Manx SR. The internal body and windshield seem very much like a dunebuggy from what I've seen in the assembly manual.
I actually sat in a Sterling once and fit more or less. It did not have a lowered floorpan. I think if I found a good one I'd try the lowered floorpan trick. I think the Sterling is the best looking KitCar by far.
I actually sat in a Sterling once and fit more or less. It did not have a lowered floorpan. I think if I found a good one I'd try the lowered floorpan trick. I think the Sterling is the best looking KitCar by far.
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letterman7
- Posts: 484
- Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 8:17 pm
I've got my floors on the Sterling lowered by 4" full length, and I'm on the hunt for different seats. I have chopped up Jetta seats now, but they don't support my lower back very well...tough on long rides. The SR I plan to keep more or less stock, but since I do have to do the pans, I may drop those a couple inches just for the heck of it. It's a little tight under the dash for my legs!
Let me know if you are serious about finding a Sterling. A Sebring rolling chassis and body just went off on Ebay not 20 miles from me for about $1400 - a steal for someone who wants to play. You could also check out our website (still in infancy) www.nationalsterling.com
You never know what'll show up there!
Rick
Let me know if you are serious about finding a Sterling. A Sebring rolling chassis and body just went off on Ebay not 20 miles from me for about $1400 - a steal for someone who wants to play. You could also check out our website (still in infancy) www.nationalsterling.com
You never know what'll show up there!
Rick
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Mike T
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2001 12:01 am
4" seems like a hefty drop. Does that end up being the lowest part of the car? Skid plate!
Jetta seats? How far is your butt above the floor? If I did the work for a 4" drop I'd chew my leg off before I used a 2 3" tall seat cushion.
My Porsche 914 I use for autocrossing has an aluminum Kirkey race seat bolted flat to the floor. Plenty of headroom that way. No roof anyway but I want to get my bulk as low in the car as I can...
I think I saw that ebay Sebring. Was that the one that was a university solar car?
Jetta seats? How far is your butt above the floor? If I did the work for a 4" drop I'd chew my leg off before I used a 2 3" tall seat cushion.
My Porsche 914 I use for autocrossing has an aluminum Kirkey race seat bolted flat to the floor. Plenty of headroom that way. No roof anyway but I want to get my bulk as low in the car as I can...
I think I saw that ebay Sebring. Was that the one that was a university solar car?
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letterman7
- Posts: 484
- Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 8:17 pm
That was the one. I didn't even know it was there!
The pan drop isn't as drastic as one would think. The first part to bottom out is the front fiberglass "skid" plate under the front beam. The seats are basically bolted to the floor - no subframe on them, just the cushion stapled to a board
, bolted to the pan. I want to find a reclining bucket that will support my back a little more...I'm watching a set of Miata seats on Fleabay now...stay tuned!
I just Mapquested your hometown Mike - damn, you're up there a bit! Carlisle might be a bit of a ride for a day! Though it is a nice ride - right down 81. I had a couple jobs in Elmira this past year...dead of winter...huge snowstorm the day I had to deliver the goods!
Rick
The pan drop isn't as drastic as one would think. The first part to bottom out is the front fiberglass "skid" plate under the front beam. The seats are basically bolted to the floor - no subframe on them, just the cushion stapled to a board
, bolted to the pan. I want to find a reclining bucket that will support my back a little more...I'm watching a set of Miata seats on Fleabay now...stay tuned!I just Mapquested your hometown Mike - damn, you're up there a bit! Carlisle might be a bit of a ride for a day! Though it is a nice ride - right down 81. I had a couple jobs in Elmira this past year...dead of winter...huge snowstorm the day I had to deliver the goods!
Rick