Pan replacement options?
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- Posts: 567
- Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2001 12:01 am
Pan replacement options?
Before I commit to purchasing a full tube chassis for my Manx clone I thought I would investigate fixing what I have. I have a '65 pan that is not short enough so it needs to be reshortned and I would also like to replace the pan halfs and perimeter frame with something stronger (so I have somewhere to tie my cage to) - keeping as much of the stock backbone as possible.
Has anyone done this? Have any pictures to share?
Thanks,
Bill
Has anyone done this? Have any pictures to share?
Thanks,
Bill
- Lo Cash John
- Posts: 1089
- Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2001 12:01 am
I'll take some pics of my buddy's project and email them to you in a few days. If I forget, email me to remind me.
For his car, I used 1/16 inch diamond plate and 3/4 inch thick wall tube to establish a perimeter. It still isn't finished, but you'll get the idea. When I do it again (for my buggy project), I'll use 1/2 X 1 1/2 square tube for the perimeter, but I'll use the thin diamond plate in the same way. It should look bad-ass once it's powder coated satin black.
For his car, I used 1/16 inch diamond plate and 3/4 inch thick wall tube to establish a perimeter. It still isn't finished, but you'll get the idea. When I do it again (for my buggy project), I'll use 1/2 X 1 1/2 square tube for the perimeter, but I'll use the thin diamond plate in the same way. It should look bad-ass once it's powder coated satin black.
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- Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2003 1:24 pm
Bill I was thinking of doing the same thing, run some boxed tubing around the outside perimeter for added strength and a place to mount things to. I haven't gotten this far yet but I was thinking of some thing heavier then I'd need, like maybe 2 X 3 square tubing and laying it so the wider part would be what the body rests on. This way there would be a little more over hang then needed to mount the cage and seat supports to and not have to cut to much into the body flange.
John I'd also like to see some pics. I like the diamond plate idea, might have to use it.
John I'd also like to see some pics. I like the diamond plate idea, might have to use it.
- Lo Cash John
- Posts: 1089
- Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2001 12:01 am
Sorry guys. It'll be next weekend before I can post pics. The floor pan is covered with a lot of stuff in my garage and next Saturday is going to be garage clean-up day. It looks about like the pics posted, but in diamond plate. Notice how the floor pan stays dead flat all the way back...I did the same thing. Nice and easy to do, plus it'll make adding a roll bar easier.
Murzi, nice work!
I think for my next buggy project, I may use the square tubing as pictured, but use aluminum diamond plate for floors.
Murzi, nice work!
I think for my next buggy project, I may use the square tubing as pictured, but use aluminum diamond plate for floors.
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- Posts: 466
- Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2003 1:24 pm
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- Posts: 567
- Joined: Tue Jul 31, 2001 12:01 am
John, Would like to see pictures of the project as well.
What thickness of tube would you suggest?
I have been thinking of notching the ends of the tubes to fit the bulkheads but to weld them from the bottom to keep the top all level - what do you think?
Also, I have been looking into going with 1 x 3 tube so as to have a good foot print for mounting a cage - problem is I can only find .080 wall locally.
Bill
What thickness of tube would you suggest?
I have been thinking of notching the ends of the tubes to fit the bulkheads but to weld them from the bottom to keep the top all level - what do you think?
Also, I have been looking into going with 1 x 3 tube so as to have a good foot print for mounting a cage - problem is I can only find .080 wall locally.
Bill
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- Posts: 90
- Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 1:46 am
I.ve done about 12 of these pans in the last two years and have three more orders. don't use .080 (.083) for lawn chairs , min of .095, best .120. If it's a street car use 1 1/2" x 2" up off road car 1 1/2" x 3" up. don't lay the tube sideways, you will be losing the strenght. don,t weld the roll bar to this, make the roll bar or cage so that it bolts down to the new frame work. Most pans are done just like in the pic, but if you want a lift. this is where the 3" come in. start the tube on top of the pan, Then make a front and rear piece. I only use 1 1/2" because most bodys have an 1 1/4" mounting flange with a over hanging lip. This fits 1 1/2" pretty good. Then by the time you weld in gussets you have mounting tabs for a cage. To mount the body to 3" stock, I drill mounting holes @ 5/8" on top of the tube. let the drill down and mark the inside bottom of the tube, but do not drill a hole. finish the bottom with a 3/8 drill bit. I make these, but you can buy thread couplers. now use a ball pein hammer and dimple the 5/8 hole set the coulper in the hole and weld in at the dimple. oh ya screw a bolt in the coupler 1st. when you have all these in place , weld the bottom 3/8 hole solid. now you can bolt the body on from the top, no nuts to get screwed up or trying to make your arms longer. At the front of the 1 1/2" tube you can use a piece of 1 1/2" round tube, slip this about 10" into the side rails, plug weld , run this to the front beam with a beam clamp for a beam stiffener. At the rear run the tube to the torsion housing and weld it to that. Now you have the base for a full tube frame. My last frame like this is still here, but has a body on it and the pic's are gone. if I took more pic's I don't think you could see much of what I'am talking about. All this welding in threaded slugs takes a hella lot more time. But is well worth it in the end
I like the idea about the threaded inserts. I wonder if you could drill the 5/8 hole from the underside and the 3/8 on top and insert the "threaded plug" from the underside. It seems like then the 5/8 plug would have to pull through the 3/8 hole now to fail. Weld up the bottom...... Six one way, a half a dozen another. That is what I like about building these things, everybody has different ideas.
MURZ
MURZ