I haven't done much on it yet, but I'm preparing to get started. http://bremenminimark.blogspot.com/
There's a large amount of rust through the passenger floor pan, it needs to be replaced. The rest of the chassis looks ok, damage wise, just needs to be cleaned up and painted (por-15?).
It hasnt been run in 20 years. I'm wondering if I need to rebuild the engine from the ground up or can I get away with just replacing all the stuff thats deteriorated around it (cables, wires, belt, spark plugs, etc)?
Any pointers?
Restoring a Bremmen Mini Mark
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Ol'fogasaurus
- Posts: 17758
- Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm
Re: Restoring a Bremmen Mini Mark
If I remember correctly the Bremen Mini Mark is kind of like a Maxi T but more luxurious. I think there is another version, the Creighton Phaeton, that is very similar to the Bremen (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replica-Kit-Mak ... ars_Trucks).
I am going to assume that this will be a body off restoration as I think it would be worth it in the long run. This will give you a better look at what you have.
From what I have been told pan halves can be replaced with the body on so that might be worth looking into.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=117282
This is what is in the tunnel of your pan now. It is good to know what is in there before you start tearing into things.
In no particular order:
If it has been sitting for a long time you are going to want to go through the whole fuel system to make sure that it is free and clean, that includes the fuel tank and replacing all soft lines (at least two). The hard fuel line starts in the frame head, goes down the tunnel and exits the driver's side transaxle mount. You could run compressed air down the tube but maybe blowing a long string done the tube with a small nylon bristled round brush attached with a string one the other end to pull it both directions, this might be worth it.
The brakes are going to have to be dealt with also. It would be advisable to replace the four soft lines right off the bat and not have to deal with them obstructing servicing the rest of the braking system. You will want to pull the drums and inspect the shoes, springs and wheel cylinders replacing as necessary. Remember to correctly bleed the brakes when new fluid is added.
The engine, should be rotated to see if it is free: if not there are some things that can be done but check that out before we get into that problem.
The carbs most likely are going to be in need of cleaning and adjusting. All the fluids in the transaxle and engine need to be replaced before trying to start it. Points, plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, cap and condenser should be replaced and the coil inspected.
You have a Ball-joint beam so inspect the ball-joints, tie-rod ends and check the play in the steering box. You may want to replace the rag connection on the steering box to steering rod while you are at it.
Check the wiring, especially the grounds as they could be corroded and not doing their jobs. I might be temped to replace the battery cable and especially the woven ground cable from the torsion housing by the passenger side rear shock tower that connects to the engine/transaxle.
This should be most of it but I am sure more stuff is going to show up. If you don't have one get a Bentley's manual which is probably the best and then there is the Haynes manual if you can't afford the Bentleys.
This should be a good start on getting it back into usable condition.
Lee
I am going to assume that this will be a body off restoration as I think it would be worth it in the long run. This will give you a better look at what you have.
From what I have been told pan halves can be replaced with the body on so that might be worth looking into.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=117282
This is what is in the tunnel of your pan now. It is good to know what is in there before you start tearing into things.
In no particular order:
If it has been sitting for a long time you are going to want to go through the whole fuel system to make sure that it is free and clean, that includes the fuel tank and replacing all soft lines (at least two). The hard fuel line starts in the frame head, goes down the tunnel and exits the driver's side transaxle mount. You could run compressed air down the tube but maybe blowing a long string done the tube with a small nylon bristled round brush attached with a string one the other end to pull it both directions, this might be worth it.
The brakes are going to have to be dealt with also. It would be advisable to replace the four soft lines right off the bat and not have to deal with them obstructing servicing the rest of the braking system. You will want to pull the drums and inspect the shoes, springs and wheel cylinders replacing as necessary. Remember to correctly bleed the brakes when new fluid is added.
The engine, should be rotated to see if it is free: if not there are some things that can be done but check that out before we get into that problem.
The carbs most likely are going to be in need of cleaning and adjusting. All the fluids in the transaxle and engine need to be replaced before trying to start it. Points, plugs, spark plug wires, rotor, cap and condenser should be replaced and the coil inspected.
You have a Ball-joint beam so inspect the ball-joints, tie-rod ends and check the play in the steering box. You may want to replace the rag connection on the steering box to steering rod while you are at it.
Check the wiring, especially the grounds as they could be corroded and not doing their jobs. I might be temped to replace the battery cable and especially the woven ground cable from the torsion housing by the passenger side rear shock tower that connects to the engine/transaxle.
This should be most of it but I am sure more stuff is going to show up. If you don't have one get a Bentley's manual which is probably the best and then there is the Haynes manual if you can't afford the Bentleys.
This should be a good start on getting it back into usable condition.
Lee
-
Ol'fogasaurus
- Posts: 17758
- Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm