Does anyone else out there have a Fierro 600?

[Darryl Castone]

ok guys here is my video i mentioned
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BBcsmebZduk

just mentioning, my ears rung for a min or two after revving this engine. it looks small and junky but it's so loud. i wish my camera had good audio.

[djm58]

darryl, this is danny a.k.a. djm58. your car is coming along great, you might have to find someone in your area to help you with the wiring as that can become a nightmare with blinker,tail,brakelights all work in conjunction with each other through the steering column turn signal switch. get that part of it and the rest is pretty straight forward as long as you have some knowledge of wiring. you have a very simple fuse box which i would update to a mini fuse system. those little levers that say heat(bad subject-lol) on them lead under the car and dump out near the front of the heater boxes encasing your exhaust manifolds on both sides(lever per side). as long as the cables are free and heaters flaps are free they should work decently. go to a vw or dune buggy site and you will probably find a reverse lock-out short throw shifter like the one on my car, i've got 17 pics today and still trying to download them on this site. i've also had my headliner out while installing a new hidden antenna and your double bar on top is the same as mine. your doors may be off of a mercury bobcat as they had elec. window options where the pinto doors usually didn't. your license plate holder is off of a bmw, side marker lights are fiat, tail lights are 280-z, chevy vega hatch, pinto(early)windsheild, vw scirocco hood latch, and my car uses a pontiac grand prix column, yours may be different. you can go bigger tires as long as your rim width will accommodate it and the rim offset don't put the tire against the inside or outside body under a heavy lean (curve). i took the "dorsal fins" off the bottom of my car and it cleaned the looks up since i have no intention of putting a grille back on that area of the car. a also made a flexible air dam out of a long strip of heavy black rubber which is of 3 pieces and then riveted on and trimmed to the curvature of the front wheel well. the post that your door locks to i have seen in o'reilly parts stores in the help section and should have a plastic sleeve on it. you have a single carb, probably single port head that is fairly easy to tune. the engine doesn't really sound bad from what i could hear and the feed i got was pretty clear. sounded more like a cold engine starving for gas. does it run better the warmer the engine gets? possibly have weak plugs. the rattling i heard sounded like loose tin while the engine was trying to level out. once it did i heard no more rattling. i had a lot of little issues with mine when i first got it, as the previous owner(good guy, musician-not a mech.)didn't know how to work on it to an extent, one local towtruck friend of mine said he used to be on his speed dial.lol do you know what size engine you have? again, vw or dune buggy sites have some nice engines... a little pricey, but there's a certain amount of confidence with a new motor. car really looks good with that fresh paint on it! well, i am going to try and get some of my pics off the folder and back over to this site. if you don't see any accompanying this bit, it's because the computer is given me the runaround.

[Piledriver]

I've been lurking on this thread awhile, those are really very beautiful cars.
(Ferrari should be proud )

To upload, pics max size 800x600 256kB, jpeg or png works best.
Limit 3 per post.

(png or text/drawing, jpeg works great for photos of real things but murders text/diagrams)

[djm58]

when you have a pic like that piledriver, lurking takes on a whole new meaning.lol what's the t3 that you have early and late of. and thanks for the info on uploading, still probably have 3 or 4 (million) things to learn about these computers.

[dfhtrhjn]

Darryl that metal post thing that your door closes on that you hate so much is missing the Teflon ring that goes on it. If you kinda have to slam the door to get it shut, then that's why. It's a ford part you can order but I don't remember what it's called.

I'd replace your fuse box, you can go to the auto parts store and pick up a good new one for a few dollars. Like this:



I have two of these in my car and they're great. You hook the power to the chrome screw and your devices on those connectors.

[Darryl Castone]

For pictures... what I usually do is upload them at picturetrail.com (or any place with photo albums) then I post the link to the photo on my forum posts

[djm58]

i have a file set-up with 17 pics of my car(no murders)lol , and i can get the file to the loading point, but as piledriver stated they have to be in perimeters. what i don't know is how to get my pictures or file to conform to this. my file shows they are jpeg and 2848x2134 at between 877 kb and 1.39 mb. any suggestions? do i also have to trim each pic out of the file before an upload or is the computer doing this automatically when i click on to one pic to send, orrrrrr is it trying to send the whole enchilada? see darryl what you can get into when you don't know wiring? you guys would've already seen my car if wiring was what i was dealing with. dfhtrhjn post is what you need and is sold at o'reilly's for abt. 10-15 bucks and the striker bolt, same place for abt. 10 per side. going to get off here so i can try some reconfiguring on my pics.

[Piledriver]

i have a file set-up with 17 pics of my car(no murders)lol , and i can get the file to the loading point, but as piledriver stated they have to be in perimeters. what i don't know is how to get my pictures or file to conform to this. my file shows they are jpeg and 2848x2134 at between 877 kb and 1.39 mb. any suggestions? do i also have to trim each pic out of the file before an upload or is the computer doing this automatically when i click on to one pic to send, orrrrrr is it trying to send the whole enchilada? see darryl what you can get into when you don't know wiring? you guys would've already seen my car if wiring was what i was dealing with. dfhtrhjn post is what you need and is sold at o'reilly's for abt. 10-15 bucks and the striker bolt, same place for abt. 10 per side. going to get off here so i can try some reconfiguring on my pics.

You have to load each pic into a paint program and scale it down to 800x600 or less... crop it first.


I run Linux, so I use GIMP. MS paint will work although not as easily.

If you're running *UNIX, you can scale whole directories full of pics at once using the imagemagik tools...

(where UNIX is MacOSX, *BSD or Linux, or any of the other flavors)

[Darryl Castone]

the mechanic who was working on my car did mention how the fuse box blew once....
well i'm guessing $20-$30 will get me a new entire fuse box set or whatever.
how much would a pro charge me to do new electric for me?
then again i have my next door neighbor who is a freak at cars. he bought a VW jetta claimed as totaled (serious engine fire) from a dealership and rebuilt the engine, repainted the body panels and engine bay, re-did the wires and everything within 3 weeks and the car was new.
he's helped me a lot on my car. when i really think about it. i think i need a new fuse box and new switches/toggles that control everything and stuff will actually work like my windshield wipers, headlights and etc...

so when i install my carpet. the jute padding.... should i put that towards the back where the speakers and etc is or, that AND the floor of the car?

[djm58]

i had one quote from o'reilly auto parts at around 30 bucks for a fuse box like you need and another they had in stock which was a 6 fuser for abt. 10, all depends on how many circuits you want to run, a fuse for each item(wiper,headlight,radio etc.) is the best way, total everything you might possibly want and then make sure the box has at least that many fuse ports. most boxes will have an amperage rating of 30(recommended). if your running anything above that, you need a larger amp box. you can share circuits but thats where problems can start(amperage overloading). sounds like your neighbor is a good candidate since rewiring an engine compartment is no small task and takes some pretty good knowledge of wiring to execute. also when your bringing your components into the box, you need to know what amp fuse to run for that particular item and "never" run a larger fuse than recommended or, well.... as far as sound dampening goes, i'de put in as much as you could, starting at the rear since that seems to be where most of the noise i've experienced has come from(engine, exhaust). i really haven't had a lot of road noise, but i'm sure its because of the carpeting and i have seen alot of insulation in the rear bulkhead and rear seating area of my car. well i'm presently trying to uninstall a program that was suppose to help me with the pixel format in my photo gallery, instead i got a new background and toolbar. i have windows vista and the only spot they offer for reformatting is in the e-mail spot. but i'm learning a lot, this thing wont spank me to much longer(fingers crossed).

[dfhtrhjn]

If your neighbor is good at wiring then I suggest having him help you. A shop is unlikely to let you hang out while they do the work so you can learn. There's no substitute for knowing your own cars wiring; I spent a lot of time on it and have every circuit memorized.

So then, one fuse per device, if you don't know the amperage start low, you'll burn a couple out before you find the right ones for each. It's still better than using a fuse too large and causing a fire because the amps heat your wires up. Actually you can probably put all your gauge lights on one (on the switch that's got your headlights). anyway, you're already wired up so all you have to do is find where everything belongs.

Most of your gauges will probably have four wires, Power (red to fuse box), Ground (black to ground or negative on bat), Lighting (white wire for gauge light), Signal (green wire for signaling the gauge). Here's how you hook up a tachometer:




All you have to do is get your volt meter out and start checking wires, it gets easier once you've done one I highly recommend drinking scotch while wiring.

[djm58]

if just one of my pics makes it to the forum i'll be happy, then i'll start trying for more pics at a time. this one should be one of 17 i have so far.

[Darryl Castone]

i like how your front bunpers aren't out as much as mine are. and it also sucks your cars have front grilles and mine doesn't. wish there was a mold for those things.

BTW for both you and stephen. my exact paint is:
(this is just all the info i have)
MATTOS(not sure if Mattos was the store or the brand name?)
4737 IF (dunno what that means)
cost code: E. (dunno what that means)
FUL-BASE BC (dunno what that means)
car: Ford
year: 1974
PO/RO # WAITING (dunno what that means)
code: 2008
color: CANDY APPLE RED "T" (dunno what "T" means)

MIXED BY: MATTOS, INC. 05/13/2010

there are misc' symbols too like it says
"Sealer/G"
"VOC/ap:5.5 & le:5.5"
"VOC G-L/ap:654 & le:654"
"Pb Lead" (the Pb lead thing actually has one of those symbols overtop of it to say it doesn't contain whatever that is.)

i hope that helps you guys on color

[djm58]

mine had rubber bumperettes which extended back into the body,didn't likem' so i took them off. didn't offer any protection for you or the car for that matter. the grille is hand fabbed solid flat steel bar(matching signal covers) which i believe are original and could be built easier with another type and better material. i was looking at recessing with stainless or polished aluminum. it all depends on the direction of style your headed in. i still haven't decided on what color shade i want other than it will be red(fav.color). stephen has a beautiful car, i've admired it every since i seen it. i'm going to try and back-and-forth some pics of inside-outside of my car as i'm still having trouble uploading.

[djm58]

i have done nothing to the interior yet other than the stereo, speakers, and temporarily covered the seats and st. wheel.