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Gonna have to do some searching on flat shifting and all...

Chip Birks wrote: ↑Fri Nov 03, 2017 11:04 am My wires don't go along the outside of the column, but literally through the steering rod, popping out just above where the rod couples to the steering box coupler.
Okay Clone, that makes way more sense! Its an arming switch on the shifter! On/off makes sense.
I just leave mine active all the time. I've never acccidentally used the launch or flatshift on the street, gotta be trying pretty hard to be naughty to make them do their thing.

I have my launch rpm set at 4000.......not sure if that would be right or not.
I suppose I could leave it on too but that little yellow indicator light might make me want to try it where I should not tread........
I'm not really familiar with how it works and the one time I tried the flat shift I had it set to spark and fuel cut and it didn't work real good......
It fell on it's face but shifting was sure easy!!!!

I don't want to blow anything but from what I gather a stock swing axle is pretty tough......welded 3rd and 4th though.

Clonebug wrote: ↑Fri Nov 03, 2017 12:45 pm
I have my launch rpm set at 4000.......not sure if that would be right or not.
I suppose I could leave it on too but that little yellow indicator light might make me want to try it where I should not tread........
I'm not really familiar with how it works and the one time I tried the flat shift I had it set to spark and fuel cut and it didn't work real good......
It fell on it's face but shifting was sure easy!!!!

I don't want to blow anything but from what I gather a stock swing axle is pretty tough......welded 3rd and 4th though.

I launch between 5500 and 6500. 6500 if boost is non existent, 5500 if at a decent boost level. I've never used flat shift successfully. My clutch won't hold while even granny shifting the car right now. No point in trying to keep the throttle on the floor. Next season I'll figure it out.

Honestly, i wouldn't even mess with the flat shift/launch settings unless you are planning to drag race the car. There is no reason to punish parts like that unless you are looking for that extra .1 second.

I stay out of them "Water Boxes at the strip's not needed for me,, I'm not trying to Break "Record's" or Parts I do a dry hop just to clean the slicks, water box burnouts is pretty much useless for "street"Tires. I use the line lock at Parade's and Cruise's just to show off with some old street tires I keep around for this The handle in pic is a "staging Brake' hooked to the rears to Pre-Load the Trans. I was just using the E-Break but the darn clutch would start to grab and 1/2 a brake shoe (e-brake ) wouldn't hold it back

I let the button placement rest for a while and sleep over it.

Made good progress on the line-lock plumbing.
Came out verry nice for a first timer!


Making the "edge":











Only thing left is blocking off the top port on the brake cilinder.
Not sure how to tackle that on. Didnt want to order a blanking plug.

Maybe solder the tube shut and then put a normal nipple on.

Because of safety reasons i didnt solder the brake line and bought a blanking plug.

That came in yesterday.

I also ordered a new uretane coupler from shiftrod to gearbox. I notices the stock one on my buggy was missing the long bolt that goes trough it.
And since i sometimes go in reverse instead of 2nd when downshifting i also got a new plastic bushing (guide) for the shift rod.

The only thing i need now is some new hose for the brakefluid reservoir to main brake cyl.

Once i get that i can install the fuel tank back in front and close the hood.
The shifter is then next on the to do list.

Ruben

Are those copper brake lines?

Yup! Why?

panel wrote: ↑Thu Nov 09, 2017 10:50 pm Are those copper brake lines?

I was thinking that too. Copper work hardens and then cracks over time. Aluminium or stainless steel is a lot better.

Ow.

Didnt know that.

Thanks for the heads up, i will keep an eye on them!

I've had copper lines on my car since 1992 and no problem so far.

buguy wrote: ↑Fri Nov 10, 2017 6:23 am I've had copper lines on my car since 1992 and no problem so far.

Even still, they're illegal in lots of places.

Actually I mispoke. I have a copper fuel line. Not brake lines.

So i finaly found something bad on this buggy...

I wanted to place a new shift rod bushing today.

When i took the shifter of and got the old grease off and slide the shift rod out there was no sign of the old bushing. Only the metal ring and a little plastic edge was left on the rod.

And i also noticed the rod was'nt welded properly when they shortend it, see below:



You can see its not welded perfecty in line:





I first filed the welds down and tried to get it in there but no luck.

And to make it worse i bend the bracket where the bushing goes trough about 1-2cm backwards...

But then a friends father came to say hi and offered to cut the shiftrod in half, take the bad welds off, slide a piece IN the shiftrod and spotwelding it back together.

So that made the pain of screwing up al little less.

I will have another go at straightening the bracket when the anger wears off.

Greets!

You can get new shift rods.

When I built mine I just cut the length off the very end and used one of those adjustable ends........

http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6330.htm

and the universal joint style coupler to connect back to the transmission.
This one is the best you can get.......No slop at all and makes for really tight shifts.

http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6110.htm

It works oh so smooth.........

New hangers are available if you want to weld it in.

http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/6334.htm