1641 Turbo EFI Manx. 250Hp/337Nm Turbotub

[rubenski]

I kind of have a plan in my head for the stock wastegate deleting.

I plan to drill and tap a hole for a M8 screw in the flange right where the valve is that opens and shuts.

Get a bolt in there with some sealent ont the threads and then i wont need to weld anything on the turbo.

[Chip Birks]

How will you keep the flapper shut? I just bought a internally gated turbo. First thing I did was pull off the stock gate. I plan to just weld it. Mine is new though, should be pretty easy to weld on, nice and clean. If that header is 1.5 or so diameter, I'd recommend picking up some 1.5 v-bands and using them instead of the 2 bolt deals. I'll be doing those on my new exhaust for sure. So much easier to work with.

[petew]

And CSP stuff is always mega expensive.

[rubenski]

How will you keep the flapper shut? I just bought a internally gated turbo. First thing I did was pull off the stock gate. I plan to just weld it. Mine is new though, should be pretty easy to weld on, nice and clean. If that header is 1.5 or so diameter, I'd recommend picking up some 1.5 v-bands and using them instead of the 2 bolt deals. I'll be doing those on my new exhaust for sure. So much easier to work with.

I will screw a bolt against the flapper (trough the exhaust flange) to get it shut.

I guess if a vaccum operated actuator can keep the flapper shut and not leak boost untill 7-10psi, a little twist of the wrench will do fine.

Boost will be controlled trough an external wastegate.

They look so much better and the turbo looks much nicer without the stock wastegate.
I could cut the top of the flapper control arm off too....details....

Pete, i allready have the exhaust pictured in my prev post, but i will only use the J-pipes and 4in1. The mufflers and Y-pipe are gonna get sold to get back some money.

And also the 40mm webers, throttle linkage,fuel pump, coil, distributor and CB Blackbox.

Maybe i could get a 1000€ if i sell it to the right guy. I know its worth more than that but i know thats not what you get back from it.

[petew]

Yeah, sell that stuff while there are still carb/dizzy lovin' suckers to buy it. Eventually, people will give up on that junk and go straight to EFI for aftermarket stuff. The price keeps coming down and down. I don't miss my points or carbs. Love just plugging in the laptop and going for a drive.

[rubenski]

So maybe you're right, i probably cant get the 4 2-bolt flanges made for this money:



Only about 30€ for 2 v-bands at my doorstep.

Looks the part right?

[Chip Birks]

Yep!

[rubenski]

Contacted the seller for combined shipping for the 2 1.5inch vband clampsnfor the j-pipes and the 2.25inch for on the turbo exhaust flange.

[rubenski]

Havent heard back from the ebay seller for the v-bands.

Did get all my drawings for the flanges.

He wont mind me mosting them here i guess. Most of them you can get from google.

[buguy]

Is it cost effective having them all made when they are already available? And are you building the header out of mild steel or stainless?

[Clonebug]

That TD04 #3 diagram is not a Subie flange...at least not any that I know of.

[rubenski]

No, its the flange for my up-pipe comming from the 4in1 to turbo.

And yess i will have it lasercut in stainless.

Gonna get a price tag today!

[buguy]

Nice! When I was pricing bends, stainless wasn't all that much more expensive than mild steel.

[Clonebug]

Stainless is a little more complicated to weld though as far as I understand.

To do it right you need to backfill the tubing with argon in order to get a clean weld inside. Otherwise you can get loose scaling or weld chunks that might break loose and go though the turbo or worse go through the engine if it's on the intake side.

[buguy]

I have heard that too but I talked to a dude that was a big shot welder and he told me it was more important for food grade stuff. But I can see where any scaling would not be a good thing.