1641 Turbo EFI Manx. 250Hp/337Nm Turbotub

[Chip Birks]

I have heard that too but I talked to a dude that was a big shot welder and he told me it was more important for food grade stuff. But I can see where any scaling would not be a good thing.

I'm going all stainless on my next setup. I'm will be building a back purge setup with my spare tank and regulator. I like welding stainless. I haven't used the back purge stuff yet, but look forward to it. Should make for some nice clean welds inside and out.

[rubenski]

I will probably tack the bends and straights in my garage and then take it to the metal shop in my town. He is a true boss, i dont think there isnt anything he can't weld.
Atm he is restoring his pre-war motorcycle, full stripdown and making it new, looking old (patina)
I think he has more then 15 motorcycles from the 40-50's.

Anyway, i got the price for the flanges too.

110 and 23€ shipping. That is a good price.
2 weeks to fab and ship!

[woodsbuggy1]

A simple tab coming off one of the exhaust flange bolts with a bolt thru it that lines up with wastegate arm will also keep your factory wastegate closed without and modifications to the turbo. Worked for me for 3 years in the off road buggy.
Keep up the good work
Kenric

[rubenski]

Got me a pic?

[rubenski]

Quick question,

From 4in1 to turbo entry:

Would a 2.25inch (57mm) up-pipe be a good size?

Turbo entry is 1.81inch (46mm )

[buguy]

I went from a 1.5" to a 2.25" on mine and didn't notice any difference. But my turbo was oversized at the time so I don't know how much that affected things. When I put the new turbo on I went with 1.75".

[Chip Birks]

Why not go 2 inch? Unless of course you are planning to port the turbo a bunch.

[buguy]

When I first did mine I was trying to fix a problem that turned out to be just too big of a turbo for my liking. So I was hoping the up pipe was the problem. It wasnt. So then I went back to the idea of keeping everything as small as possible to keep air speed up. Plus for me the 1.75" fit inside my flange just perfectly for a nice weld. Where my 4 into 1 met the flange was pretty big (maybe 2.5") I ended up welding the hole shut some to fit the 1.75" and then used a spreader to enlarge the 1.75" some. Tried to split the difference.

[woodsbuggy1]

This is on a TD04 12t but would work the same on others, sorry for all the rust, it is not uncommon to have several inches of mud covering everything after a fun weekend.
Kenric

[buguy]

Can you tell me more about that 12t? I was thinking about using one on my stock 1600 before a great deal came up on the 15t I have. Seems that the 12 was a bit smaller and might boost a little sooner. Better for my small street car.

[woodsbuggy1]

The 12T that I have is tiny, it is from a Kubota diesel engine. I was running it on a 1776 in my off road buggy, I could be a full boost(8lbs) by 3600rpm in 1st gear, would probably be annoying and have very high IAT in a street machine. I am going to use a TD04 13T(subie) turbo on this motor as it is going into my street buggy.
Kenric

[woodsbuggy1]

From my understanding, spooling a turbo is all about exhaust velocity, so having a larger pipe than what turbo was designed for should only promote late spool and lag. Just my simple minded thoughts.
Kenric

[rubenski]

This is on a TD04 12t but would work the same on others, sorry for all the rust, it is not uncommon to have several inches of mud covering everything after a fun weekend.
Kenric

Thanks, i will look into that option

Guess i will use a reducer to go from 2.25 to inch

[buguy]

Whoops my mistake. A 13t is what I am running too. Not a 15.

[rubenski]

While surfing the ebay looking info subaru engine tuning stuff I stumbled upon this:

Looks a bit like your setup clone, minus the fan.
But i guess if i can get it just above the rear of the body the scoop would catch lots of air.

Maybe a good alternative for the W/M injection.
Boost is going to start low at 6-8 psi.