1600 turbo build thread

[buguy]

I tell ya it's the clutch, pressure plate, and fly wheel that is really killing me. They are $250 by themselves. And shipping!! I have a cart all built up and its $116 just for shipping. And that doesn't include heads! That's nutty!

[petew]

I'd like to say I feel sorry for you, but...

When I ordered all my gear from CB it came to US$450. With exchange rate and shipping to Australia it cost me... wait for it... AU$1000.

That's normal over here. So I reckon $350 for your clutch/flywheel/pressure plate is a steal. Cost me that much just for the pressure plate.

So, spend it once, spend it properly.

[Clonebug]

What is wrong with your original pieces??
Flywheels don't go bad very easily........
Was your pressure plate slipping with the old setup???
I found the stock PP goes to about 13 lbs boost and the Stage I goes to 22 plus lbs. or 175 ft lbs. torque.....
I doubt a 1600 will slip a stage I until 24-25 lbs. boost.
If you are building a 1915 you might overwhelm a Stage I by 15 lbs. boost...maybe........

I have beat on my stock flywheel for a quite a few years and it has no wear that I can see. It is 8 doweled......

[buguy]

I have a 6v trans and had the 180mm stuff in there.
And yes it was starting to slip in third gear at 9 psi.
Also after reading your stuff Clone I am nervous about the stage 1 PP. I really don't want a clutch that is super hard to push too. We have tons of stoplights here and I will be rowing like mad.

[Chip Birks]

I just put a stg2 in mine with a really feisty disk. That new pp is so light its silly! At least compared to my old stg3! With the long arm it really isn't bad at all. My stupid disk by itself was over $250! But it holds!

[petew]

I'm probably overkill with my Stage II, but then I can clutch kick and it never slips. Having done a few motorkhanas with the car now, I really don't regret it. You should only need a stock friction disc. Also like Chip said, with the late model longer clutch arm it's really light. My 12yo daughter could drive easily the car.

[buguy]

Man I probably should get a stage 2. I would imagine 12-13 psi with a 1915 I will be at 200hp.

[buguy]

Ugh. I was just doing some reading. Are all aftermarket cams the flat style cam gear? I think mine is dished so now I will be needing a new oil pump too if they are all flat style.

[Clonebug]

That damn snowball!!!!!!1

[Chip Birks]

Ugh. I was just doing some reading. Are all aftermarket cams the flat style cam gear? I think mine is dished so now I will be needing a new oil pump too if they are all flat style.

I've never seen a dished cam from an aftermarket supplier

[Clonebug]

Man I probably should get a stage 2. I would imagine 12-13 psi with a 1915 I will be at 200hp.

Well....Let's see what my fav calculator has to say about that........We talking Whp of course since that is what I'm comparing it to...
200 whp equals 230 crank hp so it would take over 18 lbs. boost to get there with a 1915cc engine at 5500 rpm.
Spin it to 6500 and you only need 14 lbs. boost.

[buguy]

Dang. More money. Getting further and further away from FI. I'm about ready to throw some rings on my original pistons and plunk the original cam back in too! Put some bearings in it and order megasquirt. 5 extra psi and I'm making the same hp as a 1915.

[Chip Birks]

Man I probably should get a stage 2. I would imagine 12-13 psi with a 1915 I will be at 200hp.

Well....Let's see what my fav calculator has to say about that........We talking Whp of course since that is what I'm comparing it to...
200 whp equals 230 crank hp so it would take over 18 lbs. boost to get there with a 1915cc engine at 5500 rpm.
Spin it to 6500 and you only need 14 lbs. boost.

Can you tell me what my 2276 needs to make 200whp at 5500? I have a number, just want to know what the calculator says.

[buguy]

Looks like 13 or so.
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/calcboost.html

[buguy]

Looks like all I would have to do with a stock engine to Max out my carb and turbo is run 35 psi. That's 285 hp at the flywheel. Gonna need some E85 I think!