1600 turbo build thread

[Clonebug]

Cam is pretty close to my W-100.
276* Duration
236 at .050
420 lift W/1.1:1 rockers

[madmike]

8 dowel your crank & Flywheel maybe Low cash John has a jig?

[buguy]

I posted on the other site too. They seemed to think that was too much cam and I'd have to spin it too fast for my engine. They also recommended a Web 218 and maybe a 112 lobe.
https://vwparts.aircooled.net/Web-Cam-T ... 00-382.htm

And I guess there is no real reason I can't use the new flywheel that is drilled for 8 dowel for a template. I will ask my guy.

[Clonebug]

You are now in the snowball effect especially asking thesamba for turbo advice.

Once you get larger P/C's you have a bunch of machining to do along with a better crank to support the extra power.
If you plan on any major amount of boost whether 85.5mm or 94mm you really should get your crank and flywheel 8 doweled. I had Tim do that to my stock crank when I bumped it to 1679cc's.
Going to bigger barrels and a C/W crank puts you in a never ending upgrade due to now having to take advantage of the larger size and higher revving capabilities of that combo. You now need bigger heads.....bigger cam....C/W crank, better clutch , bigger carb, bigger intake, better exhaust and on and on and on......along with a bigger turbo to support the possible extra power you could put out. The TD04L-13T maxes out at 270 hp so you will be needing to start all over again on your turbo plumbing.
A 1915cc engine with 20 lbs. boost and 6500 rpm would put you in the 300 hp territory and I doubt you have anything in that car that will handle that much power.
A trans upgrade along with better motor mounts is needed along with brakes and suspension to hold it all.

You don't realize how hard a 200 whp VW pulls and what kind of torque a turbo puts out. The N/A guys can only dream of that much power at almost 3 times the cost.
If your transmission doesn't have welded 3rd and 4th gear hubs you will be pulling that out too.
For that matter stock size tires probably won't hold the power either.......I don't know about that since I run 275/60-15's on the back and have only slight traction issues on a hard launch which I hardly ever do.
You need to do some planning with the P/C upgrade to make sure everything will work together.

[buguy]

Yeah I know it can get nuts fast. But I really don't see myself running 20 psi any time soon. I was thinking with the bump in cc's I could throw 10 psi at it and be plenty happy. Of course sooner or later I will want more but I know there are limitations.
Really the trans needs the same upgrades even with what I was running.
My plan right now is 94mm pistons
8 dowel the crank
Not 100% sure on heads yet but the Panchito seem real good and have more in them if I want more in the future. At $600 they aren't that much more than $500 for some stock heads
Same turbo should be fine for now.
I would definitely have to scrap the little header I have bends for. I think my intake should be fine at a low boost. And I have lots of carbs to use. But like I said I don't "think" it will be too outrageous since I'm staying low in boost. These, however, are just guesses. I really won't know for sure 'til I'm into it.
Also I am swinging by the air cooled parts place today to see if he has a decent head for sale. If he does the whole plan will change and I will just re-ring it and put it back together.

Also I should mention I was pretty impressed with the one run I had at 11 psi on my stock engine. I was shocked how hard it pulled. Can't imagine what double that boost would be like!

[Chip Birks]

1.375 might not be a bad header. My 2276 only has a 1.5". I bet your exhaust ports aren't much bigger than 1.25 or so on your stock heads.

[buguy]

Yeah it would be great for stock heads. I was talking if I got 40x35 heads.
And the tube I got is 1.375 OD. So it's like 1.275 ID (don't ask me why? It 1.375 with. 065wall). So a bit small for bigger heads

[buguy]

I grabbed a stock head today. I need to take it to work and put it in the parts washer but I didn't see any cracks and the spark plug threads looked pretty good.
Not sure I will use it either way, but if it's good I have it just in case. I didn't pay much so I'm not out much if it sits on a shelf.

[Chip Birks]

Yeah it would be great for stock heads. I was talking if I got 40x35 heads.
And the tube I got is 1.375 OD. So it's like 1.275 ID (don't ask me why? It 1.375 with. 065wall). So a bit small for bigger heads

I'll measure the exhaust ports on some Panchitos today. I'd still bet 1.375 tube will be okay for a mild turbo setup. Your tube measures 1.375 on the od because you bought tube. Tube measures OD. Pipe on the other hand is measured on the ID. Your .065 wall tubing means that it is 16 gauge, which I assume, is what you ordered. Right?

[buguy]

Yes that's what I ordered. I figured it was as big as the stock 35mm valve, so a bit smaller pipe would keep the air speed up really well. Of course this was on the 1600. What's messing me up is it only mics out to about 1.265 - 1.275ID. The OD is 1.375, wall measures 065, but the ID doesn't measure what it should. Should come out to 1.31 but it doesnt. Maybe not perfectly round? Slight burr?
I just put my jugs and heads on so I could put it back in the car and start getting ready to build that header. Never thought much about it before but I can see I put the heads on the opposite side they were on before. Does it matter which goes where on these?

[Clonebug]

Yes that's what I ordered. I figured it was as big as the stock 35mm valve, so a bit smaller pipe would keep the air speed up really well. Of course this was on the 1600. What's messing me up is it only mics out to about 1.265 - 1.275ID. The OD is 1.375, wall measures 065, but the ID doesn't measure what it should. Should come out to 1.31 but it doesnt. Maybe not perfectly round? Slight burr?
I just put my jugs and heads on so I could put it back in the car and start getting ready to build that header. Never thought much about it before but I can see I put the heads on the opposite side they were on before. Does it matter which goes where on these?

1.375 - .065 -.065 for two walls of the tubing. that equals 1.375- .130=1.245"

[Chip Birks]

For fab purposes, there is not a left and right head. I tend to keep track of heads and rocker assemblies, mostly cuz they are fitted to each other.

[buguy]

Ahhhh. 2 walls!
And I do have everything else separated in big ziplocks.
Now since it looks like I have a usable head.... Do I shelf the 94mm p&c and order a set of 85.5's or bore the case and stock heads to use with the big bore?
Not that I have written off getting new good heads etc.... Just yet.

Also I noticed when I was rummaging through a school bus full of heads I noticed some had these 3 little nubs on the heads and some didn't. We're some flycut off or did some come with and some without?

[Chip Birks]

I'd be real hesitant about reusing a 40 year old head, without spending some cash and having a proper valve job done. Unfortunately, if you have a reputable shop do the work, you'll be 300-400 into your free bone stock heads. Or spend a couple hundred more and have a very nice head, with modern port and chamber design, with the ability to cool way better than that old thing.

[theKbStockpiler]

There were different ways to strengthen the heads in that area with the 3 raised parts being one of them. VW's stock chambers are a simple wedge head with more squish and also more valve shrouding.