SOLD - 1600 TURBO + oval + downunder

[Piledriver]

Nor here, but its nice to have real heat when it hits 20F.

It worked pretty good heating the 73 bus it was in when I was in upstate NY too.
That got "lose fingers and ears if you are not covered up outside for too long, and don't lick the airplanes" cold.

Yes, some idiot did that. He was stuck there awhile. B52s are great heat sinks.

[petew]

Yeah, it never gets colder than about 30F. That's cool, but you don't really need a heater for it.

[andy198712]

I use a bn4 and it shifts a ton of air, you could run it cold I guess but it's a huge thing, your fan looks ideal.
Not sure how my bn4 will run in the efi return line either!

[kangaboy]

Driving around with the window open on coldest days is typical.

I would have to do the same with my stock heater setup on my first beetle...but it wasn't because it was creating so much heat (could never fix the leaking valve cover on heater boxes )

Pete, also curious why there is fuel line on that turbo. I assume it is on the drain/feed for testing purposes?

[petew]

Yes, testing.

[petew]

Right, so in the wash up of the khanacross I've discovered a few things. I pulled the intercooler off, looking in the inlet tract and found this..

1. The aircleaner I've got in the car wasn't up to the task. Not sure if it's took small, too dry or not fine enough but there was dust in the oil film on the inlet track. I'm looking into a solution for that now.

2. Even though there was some oil in the inlet tract, it was MUCH less than I've seen before. Considering I spent the day flogging the car in the dirt and then drove an hour home on the freeway there was less than a teaspoon all told. I'm super happy about this because obviously the turbo drain is finally working. Whatever oil I'm still seeing must be left over from before I fixed it. Turbo guru reckons the dust in the inlet has cleaned the seal and seated properly. Either way, I'm pretty stoked.

What really cool about all this is it means I can get on with getting the car ready for certification and stop fluffing around with the turbo drain. The new turbo will be mothballed in case I need it in future. Yay!

For now, the next move is to give the motor and oil/filter change.

[petew]

Last night I pulled the sump cover off and changed the oil... by making a huge mess spilling oil everywhere. Of course.

Anyhow, it's all oiled up and ready to go. This morning after footy (where son no.2 ran half the field, scored a try then converted it. Look NRL, it's real football), I recalibrated the AFR sensor and took the car out for a quick tune. And man, it's quick!

I was right about the old AFR sensor. It's been tuning the car rich for some time. I noticed this when I drained the oil last night. It was much darker than it has been before. So with autotune on I drove out into the country area just near us. Did a few long pulls and generally tried to fix the tune. It's a LOT better. I was sort of wondering how much boost the turbo is putting out now. As you can see from the log below, 5.5psi is the most.

25.5.17 Tuning log.jpg

I guess that's the stock spring in the wastegate. Which is ok. What's cool is I had full boost at 3400rpm. On the way home I decided to push it through some corners with the throttle flat. Man, what a hoot! Both times the car, which looks docile, stepped out a little sideways. Who knows what the other traffic thought. I didn't even chuck it in hard! The second time it was bouncing off the 5k rev limiter and cracking like a rifle



Autotune generally pulled fuel out across the board. I expect it can still do better, but I'll leave that til later. Next month I'm driving it to Canberra and back, so I'll autotune the whole way there and back. Should have a great tune after that.

[panel]

Not a bad looking MAT temp either.

[petew]

Not a bad looking MAT temp either.

Yeah, it's about 66 degF (19degC) here today. It surprised me when I was driving along. The intercooler pump would only switch on from throttle input. The head temps are quite low too from that sensor.

[petew]

Got a question re injector duty cycle...

The log above shows I got up to 76% with just 5.5psi and nowhere near my intended 6k rpm/14psi target. When I last (accidentally) ran 14psi, I had 125% duty cycle (which I guess is not so good). Even still the motor was running crazy rich at 9.9AFR.

So, does my rising rate regulator boost fuel line pressure to allow for the extra capacity? Or do I need bigger injectors now?

[Piledriver]

Fix your VE table then see how the duty cycle looks at ~11:1.

If it was reading 9.9 it's railed, maxed out, no telling how rich it really was.

Very few (if any) WBO2 controller setups can read below 10:1.

[Piledriver]

I use a bn4 and it shifts a ton of air, you could run it cold I guess but it's a huge thing, your fan looks ideal.
Not sure how my bn4 will run in the efi return line either!

Works fine, I have a "T" right before the tank return inlet.

I'm using a Webasto Airtop 4000 pump on mine, works great.
Not adjustable but it doesn't apparently need it.
Got it for 40 bucks, new in factory bag including an installation kit, most of it useful.

It fit in the same "hole" my BN2 did, but the BN4 works a whole lot better, and has been dead reliable.
I used it for years with the BN2 pump/regulator rig, still worked better than the "NOS" BN2, which committed suicide by fire after one season. (It didn't get "out" of the heater, but it internally developed a small gasoline leak and melted the fan)
Biggest issue wit BN2s is lack of an automatic fuel cutoff... I'll mod mine so it works more like a BN4 with a metering pump, using an optical trigger off the fan feeding a frequency divider for pump signal)

I had the BN4 in a box housing spiders for 25 years...
it fired right up.

[petew]

Out in the car again today. I let autotune mess with the WUE = Fail.

Once it was warmed up I did a few sessions of autotune. Man it drives nice. I'm sure there's more in it still, but with the autotune pulling more fuel out in various places, it spools up much faster. What I have noticed is I tend to short shift. I think that's for 2 reasons; it gets full boost way below the redline; near the 5k redline the motor sounds like an out of control knitting machine trying to break through the firewall to kill me (it's also pretty loud on the freeway). However, I did think it was important to tune it up higher so on the way home I gave it thrashing off some lights. 1st gear is next to useless.

3.6.17 Tuning log.jpg

It runs out of wastegate so fast and then hitting the rev limiter throws you forward like you put the brakes on. Is there a way of softening that? You can see the pulls above. The left peak is first gear. The right is 2nd gear. What worried me is when it had an AFR peak above 15.7 momentarily in 1.5psi of boost. I hope the autotune fixed this. I guess I better check that in the tune.

[Clonebug]

Raise your rev limiter to what the engine can stand. If you have a C/W crank your limit should be set to just below destruction.....

I have my rev limit set at 5800 rpm and I shift around 5000-5400 rpm. You don't want to be hitting the limiter every shift. It is only for if you miss a gear or in the heat of a race you forget to shift.

The high afr after the shift is the Lambda delay you should be setting in your "Advanced Settings" in Autotune at that rpm to better your tune.

You are probably lean in the lower bins of your VE table so it leans out for a second at each shift. Let Autotune work a bit then smooth the bins that don't get touched by the Autotune.
I just put them close to the same numbers and go up or down a bit in rpm and map like the tuned sections.

It takes a bit to figure out how it works but the hardest part is finding time to drive it to tune while not going to and from work.

As I said earlier......getting the Lambda Delay set is quite important or else the tuning is behind a couple cells and tuning the wrong section chasing the tail a bit.......so to speak.

To get the delay figured out you can left click the log map......hold the mouse button down ......drag from tps lowest point to afr highest point then let go of mouse......on the bottom is the time you highlighted in seconds. Example if the time is .632 that would be 632 milliseconds...put that in the rpm/map bin at that rpm.....you can change the rpm and map bin numbers to whatever you want too but you might want low cruise.....mid... and high rpm/full boost bins if you know what I mean.
Sometimes you have to move the area highlighted off center in order to read the numbers but it will give you a pretty good idea of what the delay is.
If you pay attention you can catch other rpm areas the same way and get your Lambda Delay filled out accurately.

I am working on an annoying hesitation at shift points especially from first to second gear at lower rpms. Mine goes lean when shifting then comes right back but will give a little lurch.......grrrrr

[petew]

Raise your rev limiter to what the engine can stand. If you have a C/W crank your limit should be set to just below destruction.....

I have my rev limit set at 5800 rpm and I shift around 5000-5400 rpm. You don't want to be hitting the limiter every shift. It is only for if you miss a gear or in the heat of a race you forget to shift.

Just moved it up do 6000rpm. I think it would go a little higher than that, but that seems like a good place to stop. I did find it interesting that the car doesn't get full boost in first gear. Obvious it revs up so fast the wastegate opens early (@ 4.1psi). However that was 4675rpm (almost 300 below the then limit), so maybe the rev limiter was already starting to cut spark.

The high afr after the shift is the Lambda delay you should be setting in your "Advanced Settings" in Autotune at that rpm to better your tune.

You are probably lean in the lower bins of your VE table so it leans out for a second at each shift. Let Autotune work a bit then smooth the bins that don't get touched by the Autotune.
I just put them close to the same numbers and go up or down a bit in rpm and map like the tuned sections.

It takes a bit to figure out how it works but the hardest part is finding time to drive it to tune while not going to and from work.

As I said earlier......getting the Lambda Delay set is quite important or else the tuning is behind a couple cells and tuning the wrong section chasing the tail a bit.......so to speak.

To get the delay figured out you can left click the log map......hold the mouse button down ......drag from tps lowest point to afr highest point then let go of mouse......on the bottom is the time you highlighted in seconds. Example if the time is .632 that would be 632 milliseconds...put that in the rpm/map bin at that rpm.....you can change the rpm and map bin numbers to whatever you want too but you might want low cruise.....mid... and high rpm/full boost bins if you know what I mean.
Sometimes you have to move the area highlighted off center in order to read the numbers but it will give you a pretty good idea of what the delay is.
If you pay attention you can catch other rpm areas the same way and get your Lambda Delay filled out accurately.

I am working on an annoying hesitation at shift points especially from first to second gear at lower rpms. Mine goes lean when shifting then comes right back but will give a little lurch.......grrrrr

I found a delay of 0.465mls. I've programmed that in as you suggested. I don't know exactly how to smooth out my bins. I might ask a local guy to help me out with that. I also think I have some more work to do with autotune to get things right.

Interestingly, max boost arrived when I was cruising at 50mph then rolled into the throttle. Then the boost came on fast and topped out at 6psi. I know it has more it in once I fit a bleed valve.

In other news a good friend came to my church today to hang with us. He brought me a couple of old gearsticks so I could mod them for the car. I'm having issues with the shift-knob hitting my knee even with the different seat. The original plan was to tap the top of this shortened stick M10 and put the new ball on that, but it was so hard I couldn't even get the tap started. So I cut another few inches off.

stick1.jpg

Then I cut the head off a high tensile bolt and ground them both back to weld together.

stick2.jpg

After a few false starts I got it in the right spot and pored heat and metal into it. Then I got the miniature snooker ball out and started drilled and tapping. It's epoxy resin, so it was easy.

ball1.jpg

ball2.jpg

All good to go. So it's got a coat of paint on it now too.

stick3.jpg

stick4.jpg

Gotta sort out some registration things now. Demister, wipers, Etc.