SOLD - 1600 TURBO + oval + downunder

[petew]

Just installed in the car. Still needs some bending I reckon.

[Clonebug]

Post a pic of a VE map after you have run it for a while or post a log and .msq and I'll try to look at the VE and give it a change for you.
It's really not that tough and if you "Save As" before major changes you can always go back if it messes up.

[petew]

Out this arvo again, picking up my daughter and tuning.

So my daughter says...
"Dad, does this car have airbags?"
"No, it's from 1956. Airbags came out in the late 90s."
"Wow! So the car is like 65 years old that's cool!"
Chatting through various tuning things. I say,
"It's only running 6psi" and give it a bootful.
Big smile from the other seat"
"Do you like boost?"
Another big smile, "yeah, it's awesome!"

Then I tried to train her on how engines worked. We didn't get past, "it's a controlled series of explosions" and then lots of stupid jokes about what explodes... balloons, bombs, lightbulbs. Craziness.

Anyhow, questions...
1. What temp does everyone have their WUE cut out at? I'm struggling to get the motor out of WUE in winter here.

2. I had my WB drop out again today. It happened after I gave the motor it's first proper pull after warm up. When I turned the motor off and on again it worked fine again. It's a new sensor on the LC2. Thoughts?

Clonebug, I sent you an email with the MSQ and the datalog from the way home.

[66brm]

Can ase/wue be phased out after a set number of cycles or is it always temp based?

[petew]

WUE is coolant/head temp based.

[66brm]

I guess then you may need to move the taper/curve to cooler areas of the wue dial down the% or move the temp sensor to where it gets hotter

[petew]

Ok, another qu. Just looked into the battery voltage. It peaked out at 18v at one point. Is that too high? In the next log it peaked out at 19v. That's not right... is it?

[66brm]

Put a multi meter over the battery terminals and compare to what ts is displaying, if they are the same it probably indicates the voltage regulator may be faulty.

[petew]

Just been back through my engine logs. The problem has been getting slowly worse. I'd say it's the regulator. Grrr. This thing was sposed to be rebuilt.

Just as well I rebuilt one with a new regulator last week eh?!

[petew]

Took my spare alternator down to my auto elec shop today to have it tested before I put it in (read; pull half the motor apart to install it). All good! Shout out to John Dean Auto Electrical in Penrith, NSW. Charged me nothing and always helps me out. If you're local, give him some business.

Just BTW, replacement regulators are available now from CIP1 for just $32.

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.as ... 087-003-US

This is usually the part that dies so it's a cheap fix for most of our alternators. I'll pickup another one soon and swap it over into the alternator I pull out of the car. Does up to 85amps.

[madmike]

Thanks for sharing that info Pete, I too try and go local for my electrical stuff,

[kangaboy]

Regulators and bearings. Nice thing about those alternators is that most of their parts are replaceable. Got a new set of bearings from a local shop and back on the road it went.

[Piledriver]

My son bought a "new" T1 alt for his 71 super(internal reg) but it was DOA and a warranty swap was unlikely due to time lag from purchase.
(Plus it had to be running "tomorrow")

I adapted it to an external T4 regulator. Worked fine, regulator bolted on the fan housing.
You used to be able to get those with a lifetime warranty from a few places...
I would bolt it over a plug wire holder or such so that it gets cooling air.

[petew]

New alternator is 90% in. I'm kinda happy I had to do this. Coz when I pulled the alternator out, one of the two 10mm bolts holding it to the fan shroud was finger tight. Ouch. Haven't made that mistake again. Blue loctite and proper torquing. Man, these things vibrate themselves apart!

Also gonna do a few other little things to make maintenance easier. For instance, my home made inlet T manifold is too wide. I'll shorten that some and give it all a quick clean out. should be good to go after that.

[petew]

Car is back together and running again. Clonebug has been helping me with some tuning tips. He raised some concerns about my AFR table and I wanted to ask others about it too.

AFR table 11.6.17.jpg

As you can see, in the light throttle areas of the table down around 2000rpm I've deliberately got the motor running a little lean. A local guy suggested this setup to help the motor come on boost quicker. CB is concerned this is an issue. Am I making a mistake with this? Should the whole graph be 14.7 without boost?