If you run E85, it doesn't really matter what shroud you use, it's going to run cool. If you want to run "pump gas", consider the amount of research that VW did on the shrouds, and don't take it for granted...they work better stock than any aftermarket option available. The aftermarket 36hp Doghouse shrouds are "pretty good". They keep an oil cooler in the shroud and cool pretty
evenly. It's also pretty easy to mount up a set of air control flaps which you can just wire open or run complete with a functional T-stat (highly recommended unless you only drive it in fairly hot climates). Plenty of people run without a cooler inside the shroud with no problems. Something to consider is if you damage the external cooler somehow, if you have one inside the shroud you can just bypass the external one and get home w/out cooking your engine. Plus, the fan puts out plenty of air to keep oil temps in check with the DH shroud (assuming the tins are complete and fit well
), why not make use of it.
You might consider getting those pistons from Dev if the price is right. Good to have around if nothing else, or you could piece them together with a set of long barrels cut to your needed length and some tool steel wrist pins. Did you ask about restock time on the mahle sets from CB?
From what I understand, the welding done behind the #3 cyl is to prevent cracking that's caused by the case main stud pulling
away from the top front head stud, stressing the case every heat cycle until cracks develop across that "thin" area of web in the case. They started running that stud deeper in the case so it bites into material down past the anchor point for the main case stud, this way the two anchor points basically pull
towards each other as the engine heat cycles, avoiding the stress cracking in that location. Many people will argue that welding up that area is not only unnecessary, but damages the case from all the heat and potential warping caused by the welding, possibly creating the need for align boring that otherwise wouldn't have been needed, etc. Search around on the subject and make your own decision, don't just do it because that's what the local VW shop always does...educate before you spend
.
If ground clearance is high priority, you might consider the 4-gear oil pump and dry-sump tank from CB. Lots of woods buggy guys go dry-sump for ground clearance reasons. They are also better at keeping a constant supply of oil to the pump under severe angles, cornering, etc. It'll add a few hundred bucks to the overall costs, but something to consider. An Accusump is another option to a deep sump, but it's no cheaper or less complicated than a drysump really, however you can pre-oil with it before start-ups, and it'll feed oil pressure to the engine even if you're on your roof for a just a bit.
