Safari Turbo/Megasquirt Fuel Injection Project

[Chip Birks]

If you are gonna build a 1915, you are pretty much only the cost of machine work away from building a 2276. Mine uses stock length rods. Just gotta buy B pistons instead of A. You've already opened up the bore. Now you just need to make room for that big crank. If you go chevy journal and h beams, it'll be that much easier.

[GS guy]

I like "big-n's" too, but knowing Clonebug's quest for maximum benefit vs. cost, the 74 crank would be a near bolt-in to the existing set-up, with only some slight shimming to the barrels to required (maybe some slight case clearancing?). Not overtaxing the already done intake and exhaust systems. A little more bang for the buck vs. a CW 69 crank? Still unbelievably impressive - the power and longevity out of the existing motor, nice going CB!

[GS guy]

OK - edit to the previous post, just a "little" more than bolt-in for the 74mm crank. Did a little homework and it would need either 0.100" barrel shims/longer pushrods plus whatever else dealing with a 0.2" wider longblock - or - use 5.325" long rods to gain back 0.075" of the width increase. The longer rods would seem to make the most sense (with 0.025" shims), but of course an added expense. Not the "easy" stroker option I first thought.

[Clonebug]

I think I'll leave it a 1679cc engine just so I can agitate the turbo haters in that other VW forum. I take great enjoyment in posting hp and torque levels in the Engine Build/Combos thread that most 2276-2332 engines can't replicate on a dyno sheet. All you hear is the birds chirping.........
All for about $3500.00 in cost (which includes the engine, turbo and FI) compared to probably $6000.00 or more to do the same thing with a stroker.

While a Stroker would be nice the snowball effect would be just too great to justify the costs involved.

I feel I have a pretty nice driver as it sits. At almost 30,000 miles with a turbo I should be able to prove that longevity is possible along with over double the hp output.

[petew]

But then... a 74mm crank and some 94's would build you a nice 2054. Stock rods, stockish heads, but a quicker spool.

Are you feeling as tempted as I am?

[Clonebug]

But then... a 74mm crank and some 94's would build you a nice 2054. Stock rods, stockish heads, but a quicker spool.

Are you feeling as tempted as I am?

Go ahead.....and keep track of the costs then let me know what your Wife thinks of it.........

Now if Mario starts getting close to my output I might have to do something to stay on top but for the time being I'm good.......Although I'm weighing the benefits of redoing the DRD heads and maybe some 1.25:1 rockers for better air flow............

[petew]

Go ahead.....and keep track of the costs then let me know what your Wife thinks of it.........

[BBvideo=560,315]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxK5iaC8L2U[/BBvideo]

[buguy]

I agree that there is a certain draw to keeping a small displacement engine. You really must have done your homework. I put together a cart on Mario's site and I'm damn near $2000 there, and that's still no TB, injectors, some sensors, harness, and who knows what else!

[Clonebug]

I have a list with all the parts I paid for on my first FI system.....It added up to $1300.00 and I included $250.00 for misc hardware, bolts and clamps.

I sold that a couple years ago and upgraded to the Ver. 3.0 board and MS2 but I just took the money I made selling the Ver. 2.2 setup and put it into the new one. I sold that system as a bolt on ignition only MS system with a crank trigger included along with plug wires.

I have more money in the Ver. 3.0 but added upgrades that are not really needed for a first time FI system.

I saved a fair amount by scoring on the Volvo pump, TB and injectors for $20.00 but have since upgraded the injectors to larger ones.

It is a vicious circle no matter what you do.

I just save it for winter upgrades which you probably don't have in sunny Florida....

Ebay, Local Craigslist and other places are a good place to look for parts....I spent 2 years gathering FI parts before I started installing it.

That's why I list the parts I use in my build so guys like you just have to buy once for the target hp that you or I want to run. I have bought stuff a couple times in upgrades and it does add up especially when you have to buy different size tubing and silicone connectors.
Shop smart.....put a list together and buy it one time..........

It's still cheaper than a stroker and there aren't many that can compete price wise, or in hp and torque. When you blow up a stroker you are done....if you blow up a stocker...you sniffle a bit and get another cheap used engine.
Pay attention to your tune and you won't blow it up.

There is a guy on theSamba that didn't even get 1500 miles on his hot to trot 2276 and the bearings are gone.....now he's building a 2332......
I'll still probably outdo him on hp/torque.

[buguy]

For sure. That's why I was to do plenty of resesrch. I have 2 other cars that I need to restore so once the bug is done, its done. I won't have the time or resources to do it again.
I have to keep telling myself that the best part of this car is driving it. I used to have a ton of fun in it... Even when it was a stock 1200!
I'm going to borrow my brother in laws gopro one of these days soon and shoot a little video.

[Clonebug]

I got a Hero5 Black for Christmas....

I should be able to get some decent video now.......

[petew]

When you blow up a stroker you are done....if you blow up a stocker...you sniffle a bit and get another cheap used engine.
Pay attention to your tune and you won't blow it up.

Yeah, but that's not going to last forever. Even over here where they sold HEAPs of VW, good stock motors are starting to be hard to come by. In most cases you need to rebuild them and that's not a cheap proposition these days. Mine cost me $3.5k for an almost stock rebuild.

[buguy]

Yeah a Hero 5 black outta do it!

[turboedbug]

Since talking about losing a stroker motor vs a stocker.

i kinda like the subaru thing. But hey thats just me. Already fuel injected, comes with a turbo.

So if i blow my current setup i could go out and spend less than rebuilding.

Now dont get me wrong on sounding like i am hating on acvw. I am just a cheap azz that found the pros and cons worth the swap.

I snagged my motor and trans for just under 700$

Now thats not usually common at that price.



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[buguy]

I'd be lying if I said I hadn't thought about it.