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Went from a s2a turbo to a Chinese ball bearing t3 t4.

Get a bigger filter on that thing!

Did some prep on the heads for my turbo mouse today. Felt nice even though it was only a couple hours. I lapped in my valves and got the valve seats blended in one of the heads.

MarioVelotta wrote:Did some prep on the heads for my turbo mouse today. Felt nice even though it was only a couple hours. I lapped in my valves and got the valve seats blended in one of the heads.

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So did you put them back together and leak test them?????

I took a small piece of 1/4 inch plywood to cover the intake or exhaust port...drilled a 3/16th hole in it so I could put my blow nozzle through it and gave it a squeeze to air test the valves.
Instant leak test..........

did your air pressure blow the valves open, off the seats?

Clonebug wrote:So did you put them back together and leak test them?????

Not yet. I'll get the other head blended in a first. There is a shop in town with a flow bench. I kinda want to see if I can buy a couple hours with it just to A/B the untouched head vs. the blended head to see what the numbers say.

SC3283 wrote:did your air pressure blow the valves open, off the seats?

I doubt it since I just hold the plywood against the head and put a little air to it to check it.

The ones that didn't leak doing the bench test didn't leak on the engine. The leaker on the bench leaked when testing it on the engine too.
That is pressuring it from both sides....bench and engine.
I only have about 115 lbs air pressure from the compressor and with leakage around the plywood I doubt I could maintain anything close to that.

well today I took out my broken snow progressive controller and put in a hobbs 4psi switch to run my water meth. No more ping! And ill be checking my valves tomorrow morning finally hit 100 miles on the new motor

I have two Hobbs running on my WI.....
One activates at 6lbs. and the second activates at 10 lbs.

You could probably bump yours up to 6 lbs for activation without issue.

The best thing to do is to log your boost run and find out where detonation hits and set your WI to when that happens.....

No data logging on that one. Old school!

chriswillrise wrote:well today I took out my broken snow progressive controller and put in a hobbs 4psi switch to run my water meth. No more ping! And ill be checking my valves tomorrow morning finally hit 100 miles on the new motor

Quick and effective! If you need it at 4 psi I would look into adjusting the timing a bit.

MarioVelotta wrote:

chriswillrise wrote:well today I took out my broken snow progressive controller and put in a hobbs 4psi switch to run my water meth. No more ping! And ill be checking my valves tomorrow morning finally hit 100 miles on the new motor

Quick and effective! If you need it at 4 psi I would look into adjusting the timing a bit.

No data logging! Im old school for now, I emailed you about what the price difference would be between a mega and micro squirt. Im only running 10lbs of boost and when the snow controller broke I got detonation. Locked out at 24 degrees timing. I didnt think it would matter much when the meth came on, I have such a small cam that it hits 10 lbs really quick so I didnt think it would matter if it hits .5 seconds later than what I have it set too

Got carried away with a credit card and bought a decent wastegate - at last

So just swapped my leaky ebay special for a TurboSmart 45 Hypergate. I'm looking forwards to saying goodbye to lazy boost, oil temp issues and the inability to get over 12psi.

Get a good solonoid then as well. Good is 3-port, best is 4-port imho...

Think that'll be my long term aim Wally.

I never did manage to get the S40 to control that N75 valve. I might yet try and control it using something electronic and independent of everything, but for now it's just plumbed into my manual boost controller