68 baja build

Offroad VW based vehicles have problems/insights all their own. Not to mention the knowledge gained in VW durability.

Moderators: Leatherneck, rickosuave1987

Ol'fogasaurus
Posts: 13103
Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 1:17 am
Location: Just north of Seattle

Re: 68 baja build

Post by Ol'fogasaurus » Wed Sep 27, 2017 11:34 am

Good post 'Pile, I remember that being said here before but... quite a while ago. I think it needs to be posted a bit more often; if not for anything else but for safety reasons.

There are two pan replacements available: one black colored (Brazilian?) and one a reddish orange color (I forget the originating source now) with the latter being of a heavier gauge than the former. Both are of a thinner gage than the original stock VW pan though.

I think both come with the stock seat mounts but the business that supplied me with the latter pan was able to get them w/o the seat mounts installed. Not sure if it was a good timing thing or if they are available either way. I had the black replacement pan halves on originally but just didn't like what I was seeing so I replaced them soon after I got them installed.

Travis, with all the bangs and bruises you have had in your short life I would get to this really fast before you might get something really worse :wink: .

User avatar
bikesndbugs
Posts: 565
Joined: Fri May 27, 2016 12:15 pm
Location: san diego

Re: 68 baja build

Post by bikesndbugs » Wed Sep 27, 2017 2:17 pm

My seats are cage mounted now.
Beam is tied into cage so it is stiffened. The rubber rag is nice for impact absorbsion.

My mount will be similar to yours might even buy that one. Quick release is a no for me because I already have a wheel and hub in my yard.


The hub does happen to be aluminum. So how do I mount it to a steel shaft?.


Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Travis
I spend way to much time on this site

Ol'fogasaurus
Posts: 13103
Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 1:17 am
Location: Just north of Seattle

Re: 68 baja build

Post by Ol'fogasaurus » Wed Sep 27, 2017 3:40 pm

"The rubber rag is nice for impact absorbsion."

Yup, that is what it is there for but in my case there is going to be a different use (non-street only and a lot of in-even ground) so, right now it isn't a priority to me based on the angles I may have to use. The piece I am making will interchange directly with the rag joint if it does become an issue (covering my fanny on this). Talking to someone not too long ago, the electric power steering is also a positive issue.

If I remember correctly the AL hub is splined inside and is designed to go over a stock steering shaft then nut'ed into place. If I remember correctly AL can be welded to steel. To upgrade your welding skills; http://www.esabna.com/us/en/education/b ... -steel.cfm

User avatar
CentralWAbaja
Posts: 3893
Joined: Sat Feb 06, 2010 12:05 am
Location: 75 miles east of Seattle

Re: 68 baja build

Post by CentralWAbaja » Wed Sep 27, 2017 9:31 pm

Or you could weld a flat round plate to the end of the steel shaft and drill and tap the aluminum hub and bolt em together.
It is not Mickey Moused.....It's Desert Engineered!

Ol'fogasaurus
Posts: 13103
Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 1:17 am
Location: Just north of Seattle

Re: 68 baja build

Post by Ol'fogasaurus » Thu Sep 28, 2017 12:57 am

CentralWAbaja wrote:
Wed Sep 27, 2017 9:31 pm
Or you could weld a flat round plate to the end of the steel shaft and drill and tap the aluminum hub and bolt em together.
Since there are several styles of adapters for the VW (old and new styles) so w/o seeing just what the hub looks like: assuming there is proper edge margin (aka "meat) on the hub for bolts, that might work.

The more you want things to be easy; the harder it will get! (an old proberb I just made up :twisted: )

Lee

User avatar
bikesndbugs
Posts: 565
Joined: Fri May 27, 2016 12:15 pm
Location: san diego

Re: 68 baja build

Post by bikesndbugs » Thu Sep 28, 2017 10:33 pm

This is the hub thing and the wheel. And the shaft a bought any ideas on how to get the two togetherImageImageImageImageImageImage

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Travis
I spend way to much time on this site

Ol'fogasaurus
Posts: 13103
Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 1:17 am
Location: Just north of Seattle

Re: 68 baja build

Post by Ol'fogasaurus » Fri Sep 29, 2017 12:28 pm

Having computer problems this morning and lost a couple of hours work so I will try later today.

The pictures were good! Based on what I think I am seeing I do not recommend you going in this direction and for several reasons; cost and safety being the two top ones.

Later, Lee

Ol'fogasaurus
Posts: 13103
Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 1:17 am
Location: Just north of Seattle

Re: 68 baja build

Post by Ol'fogasaurus » Fri Sep 29, 2017 2:44 pm

Based on your pictures, and your picture only, it looks like you either dropped something on your toe or you need some meds :lol: (sorry 'bout that but it was just too easy) . Seriously, what I think I see is something that may have come out of an old formula race car. If so, in my opinion, then is isn't heavy duty enough for either the street or mild off-road use.

1) I do not like the idea of a threaded jam nut on the universals connecting the universal to the shaft even if there are splines and a welded seam/join are in the mix. Just too light weight for the street even. The shaft itself also looks a bit wimpy too but then I haven't seen it in person either.

2) When I was talking about enough "meat" or "edge margin", again without having seen the pictures, this is exactly what I was talking about. What I think I am seeing will mean that you have to build a new steering column to support the connection (and bearings?) to the steering wheel to sit in. The lower portion of the mount has no room for drilling and threading of fastener holes nor any material to support the hole.

I would not use the steering wheel itself as, without seeing it up close, it doesn't look strong enough for other than racing use. It does look like a formula V (for example) steering wheel. Light weight, straight arm steering and small in diameter for a very light front steering. If you remember I am building a buggy that looks like a cross between a Model T touring body with Model A fenders so I wanted to continue the look.
th65EH9YFS.jpg
This is a Model T steering wheel. Notice the wheel itself sits lower than the connection. In the mid 50s they added the need for seat belts and a non-flat steering wheel (deep dish) because there were some people who were skewered by the steering shaft when the steering wheel collapsed in a wreck and they were flown forward on to it. Your steering wheel looks to be flat and I can't see any under structure to see if there is more to it than "just flat". It looks to be just a good "ol fashion" light weight, steering wheel.

Do you want me to post some options I looked into (not sure if I am going in the same direction but not sure either if I will continue on either)? I'm still playing with the whole thing on my rig as my seat location is still driving the change. I still have to make then add the double on the under side of the pan like Pile recommended, something I had almost forgotten to do. The seat location side to side and front to rear is still in limbo which is why I am having so much fun here :roll: .
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

Ol'fogasaurus
Posts: 13103
Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 1:17 am
Location: Just north of Seattle

Re: 68 baja build

Post by Ol'fogasaurus » Fri Sep 29, 2017 6:22 pm

Travis, there was a lot I left out on this post after the first couple of try's failed. To state the obvious: one of the clues on things to look at is the size and heaviness of the components. A good example would be the jam screw used in the universals. The screw used was a CSK screw which looked to be of some questionable diameter with a blade cut for a screwdriver. That is not a real HD hard working setup! A jam-bolt with some girth to would be more appropriate but the universal also looks too small to support it.

Since I can't see a lot of things in the setup but guessing from a lot of thing (such as your hands and feet and size relationships between the parts), the rod also looks to be on the small size (not sure if hollow or not but if it is hollow how think is the wall) for something as important as steering as does the universals themselves.

Lee

User avatar
bikesndbugs
Posts: 565
Joined: Fri May 27, 2016 12:15 pm
Location: san diego

Re: 68 baja build

Post by bikesndbugs » Sat Sep 30, 2017 11:17 am

That wheel came from.my buddy he was gonna put in on a sandrail. I do still have my grant that's on the car. The quick release sucks so I could pull That out and just reuse stock spline. That would be the most cost effective.

Yes I dropped something on.my toe I forgot what it was.

The shaft is pretty heavy so its got some girth for it. Bought it off a guy with what appeared to be vw race stuff.

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Travis
I spend way to much time on this site

Ol'fogasaurus
Posts: 13103
Joined: Tue Nov 14, 2006 1:17 am
Location: Just north of Seattle

Re: 68 baja build

Post by Ol'fogasaurus » Sat Sep 30, 2017 12:57 pm

Just remember, my opinion was based on pictures and they can be deceiving at times. Just choose carefully as we don't want to lose you.

Grant, or Grant style of steering wheels are usually a good choice. The quick disconnects are handy to have and for many good reasons but if your spacing between the seat, cage and steering wheel is satisfactory for easy getting in and out easily then stay with the Grant style of aiming device; cheaper and less stuff to mess with. In my black buggy things are not quite that easy which is why I am heading in the "quick disconnect" direction for the additional space needed getting in and out and age.

Lee

User avatar
bikesndbugs
Posts: 565
Joined: Fri May 27, 2016 12:15 pm
Location: san diego

Re: 68 baja build

Post by bikesndbugs » Mon Oct 02, 2017 5:15 pm

That flat aluminum wheel is 3/8 thick. So pretty beefy.
Also a bit larger in diameter than my grant so steering would be easier.

Just not sure how to mount its alum hub to a steel shaft. Possible through bolt?

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk

Travis
I spend way to much time on this site

User avatar
bikesndbugs
Posts: 565
Joined: Fri May 27, 2016 12:15 pm
Location: san diego

Re: 68 baja build

Post by bikesndbugs » Mon Oct 02, 2017 5:25 pm

In addition to my last post I picked up a 1600 sp off a 68 bus. It has a generator 009 dizzy and a 12v coil. So do I need to do anything regarding the flywheel and alternator/ distributor.

Part number on the generator shows up on Google as 12v so that's good


Travis
I spend way to much time on this site

User avatar
dustymojave
Posts: 2011
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2008 12:08 am
Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal

Re: 68 baja build

Post by dustymojave » Fri Oct 06, 2017 12:17 am

Should say 12V on it next to the part number. Plus a 12V fits in the same generator stand as an alternator. 6V generators are skinny. 68 should be 12V.

No reason to expect a small flywheel.
Richard
Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
Speed Kills!, but then...So does OLD AGE!!
A.R.T.S. OffRoad Race Tech Inspection
MDR / MORE / Glen Helen BajaCup Challenge
AKA: MojaveRacer208
'58 Baja with 815K Miles and counting

User avatar
sideshow
Posts: 3206
Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2003 2:00 pm
Location: suth'ern oraygun yusa
Contact:

Re: 68 baja build

Post by sideshow » Fri Oct 06, 2017 8:25 am

Look for "14v" as 6 volt generators (stamped/marked 7v) were offered in large OD.
Also look for 30A, if you find 38A there are a couple minor differences in size and wiring.
Yeah some may call it overkill, but you can't have too much overkill.

Post Reply