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If you have not already replaced all 6 rubber lines I suggest you do so.
(the other two are the blue lines from the reservoir to the master cylinder, takes special hose)
If you have not personally replaced them consider them bad.

Ive replaced all soft lines including those. And the master the fronts are braided now rears are rubber.

Only thing I haven't is wheel cyls

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might pick up some sway away spring plates with 27mm swing torsions.
might be quite stiff. but will it work?


Swapping wheel cyls front to rear today. Might get my tires swapped to new wheels

ended up going to leduc swap meat.

picked up some harnesses, a fiberglass cowl, fire extingishers, 26mm torsions, a degreee pulley and a steering shaft with two u joints,
harnesses are brand new prps 50 a peice, cowl, pulley, fire, and steering shaft were 5 each and 40 for the torsion's.

started the wheel cylinder swaps.

what are my rear shock options for stock lenth.
does bilstein make bolt ons for a bus i would think those would have a better suited valving for a baja

Yes Bilstein DOES make shocks for VW buses. They are 8" travel. Fit the same as KYB Gas-A-Just 5530 8" travel shocks. Like what the 8" shock towers for VW beams are made for.

8 seems a bit too long I wish bilstein had a shock chart similar to kyb with the lengths listed

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There is/was one but by the time you get through with length (compression and extension) then you have to deal with the eyes for the bolts to go through.

My 6100 series of Bilsteins came with spacers and adapter spacers for mounting and centering the shocks through the two arcs. As I remember, that stuff didn't show up in the charts.

Lee

I'm thibking of heavier cars that have a vw swing axle. There's bus but those are 8 inches, and early type 3. Ill see if they make some for type 3 if not I guess ill just go with type one replacements. Or a possible universal fit as they are just a universal vaulving but considering vws are so light the vaulving should be on the stiffer side for a bug

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eshocks.com has bilstein lenght and reccomended valving charts.

cbeck wrote: ↑Fri Sep 15, 2017 3:59 pm eshocks.com has bilstein lenght and reccomended valving charts.

That is who I bought from and I thought I got a fair price from them and they were very good to deal with.

Lee

Got the torsions set equal. Now I gotta do clutch rings and fix other stuff.

Steering I'm gonna build a shaft but still use a box ive got a few laying around gonna Try to get the best condition one on.

My seats sit really low so I need to raise those a bit.

Also as far as belt mounts go. My belts are wrap around on shoulders and 5th point but the lap belts have to bolt on. Should I just bolt to the stock belt locations

I'm still playing with the steering relocation due to seat height myself. I am in the process of turning a metal connector to replace the rag joint. I'll go through the fire wall then put a universal (or two) just inside of the passenger compartment. That's my current thinking anyway.

Seat height is really important, not just for comfort but for egress and exit in a quick manner. Fit yourself comfortably then work from there.

On the seat belts I am not sure if using the stock location is a good idea. Since I haven't seen the stock locations for so long I would worry if they were set at a bad angle for the harness to work correctly. In my b;ue buggy, mine are mounted in the floor with doublers on the bottom of the pan.

Looking up for mounting kits most of the ones I saw were for floor mounting. Remember to get the right strength and style of bolts and use wide dia washers to spread the loads out over a larger area. https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments ... _up6pt.gif

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=mo ... +in+a+baja

I did find this though for a non-cage hookup: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/soloracerdotcom_1884_11703223

my stock seat mount locations are in the perfect spot.
or at least very close.\
i picked up a sheering shaft with 2 u joints the other day. so that gives me something to build with. not sure what else im gonna do.
probably weld to the stock rag joint area

You need either the rag joint or make a metal one with the mounting flanges 90° apart like the stock unit has. Otherwise you lose a whole lot of strength. The softer stock unit allows some absorbing of loads some and some miss-alignment, such as the frame head flexing (I know you are going to stiffen the frame head up... just giving some info). http://www.ebay.com/itm/EMPI-VW-Bug-Bug ... zE&vxp=mtr

I am using a couple of carrier similar to this but with mounting flanges. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Shaft- ... Dj&vxp=mtr

The mount will be something like this attached to the front dash cross bar on the cage. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Shaft- ... bA&vxp=mtr

The steering wheel will be mounted to a quick disconnect like this. This is the splined version which is stronger than the hex head version but both will work. The quick disconnect makes egress and exit much faster if needed. http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-BUG-BUGGY-SA ... Hv&vxp=mtr

If you are still using the stock seat mounts (pre-73 design) you need to bolt the seats down to the pan with 4 ubolts each, with 6"x6" reinforcing plates under the pan.
This avoids a potential broken neck from flying into the rear window backwards.

That's per TSB from VW, they completely redesigned the seat mounts for very good reason in `73.
The original style mounts can unwrap in a mild rear impact, hell, I have seen them fail just from some offroad shenanigans.