68 baja build

[dustymojave]

Tie rods hit the upper tubes at bump... That means you put the tubes in too low. Mine don't have that problem and I have a stock gas tank in mine.

[dustymojave]

If that oil pressure gauge is mechanical (connects by hose to the engine) - I recommend selling it. Electric is fine, but 12 or 13 feet of hose through the cockpit to the dash makes for an awful lot of opportunities for a leak as well as pressure loss and loss of sensitivity in reading.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Dusty, on the electronic pressure gauge if I remember correctly the position of the "bell" part has to be down not up to get good readings. That true?

[dustymojave]

I presume Lee, you mean the "bell" of the oil pressure sender housing. I've used them in a number of vehicles from Trans Am racing tube frame Corvette to Class 7S-4x4 Toyota pickup and a hot rod roadster with a Buick Straight 8, including many VWs. Pretty much most any orientation of housing. No issue in any way regarding that.

[bikesndbugs]

I thought that gauge was one of the spark plug tire inflators as it has a Schrader valve at one end. I may be wrong ill double check.

The tubes are as high as they go sitting right under the tank brace. Not a big deal though.

Steering needs work sooner rather than later. Really want from center what are my options probably a heim then a u joint to a box or rack.

Shock mounts got done today. So did fiberglass mounts. Bumps bunper and final welding left.
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[dustymojave]

You just may be right about that Travis! I read that the gauge is "Sun" brand, I've seen similar text in the face of an oil pressure gauge. And saw the rubber hose.

I've never seen a Sun brand spark plug inflator. Mine have braided hoses and no such text on the dial face. Doesn't mean that what you got isn't a Sun brand inflator.

[bikesndbugs]

Ill check tomorow. I can get some wright combo spindles for about 200 bucks. Is that something worth getting or just gusset the stock omes for now. Not sure how.I'm gonna mound headlights im thinking maybe extend the hinge out and build them.off of that and put them as.far forward as possible. Im out for the night as I have work at 6am tomorrow.

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[dustymojave]

YES. If they are in any kind of decent shape, those combos are a good buy at that price.

That front hood mount looks pretty good, but how about the bumper?

[bikesndbugs]

YES. If they are in any kind of decent shape, those combos are a good buy at that price.

That front hood mount looks pretty good, but how about the bumper?

I plan to sleve around the 1 1/2 inch with a cut down the side so it slides over that one inch cross fiberglass mount then have the bumper slide into the 1 3/4 tube bolted through.

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[Ol'fogasaurus]

I presume Lee, you mean the "bell" of the oil pressure sender housing. I've used them in a number of vehicles from Trans Am racing tube frame Corvette to Class 7S-4x4 Toyota pickup and a hot rod roadster with a Buick Straight 8, including many VWs. Pretty much most any orientation of housing. No issue in any way regarding that.

I remember seeing someone post about the location of the "bell" rotation being a problem many years ago so after an oil pressure problem I am not sure "yeah or nay" on it (part of me wants to believe it based on some of the problems I had with the one I was using). I used to put a "tee" in the mix to give myself both an oil pressure gauge and an idiot light but the idiot lights are not what I would call a definite source of information as they take so long to warn you in advance of a catastrophic event. I think they don't come on until 7# of oil pressure and can flicker at idle even when the gauge says you have good oil pressure.

The gauge gave me an advance warning (I do monitor my gauges especially when off-roading) that I was developing an oil pressure problem so I was able to turn around and to get to within a block away from camp before the idiot light came on... well after the gauge read "0" oil pressure. The gauge also told me that I needed to put a deep sump on my engines for going up and down steep hills (dunes).

Update: I just remembered why the not up but down. It has to do with the potential of the 'bell" draining the oil out and the possibility of getting an air bubble in it so you don't get a true reading. At least that is what I remember being argued.

[dustymojave]

I like using a large light such as 1" diameter for oil and alternator idiot lights. It's worked well for me.

When I'm driving offroad, it's generally not as a leisurely putt. I don't have time to divert my attention to reading gauges. Most all offroad racers in 2 seat vehicles reading gauges is a responsibility of the guy in the right seat for the reason above. In highway driving, one can take the time to occasionally glance at a gauge. Same is true of circle track racing and even road racing. Now...I know that not all offroaders are racing all the time. But even slow crawling in a 4WD is a VERY 3D experience. It takes a lot more concentration on where the vehicle is going and how to make it go where you want it to go than most other situations. Sand dunes is not so intensive as most other offroad situations. A graded dirt road is not so intensive either. In a forest trail or desert track, gauges are a big distraction. My HiJumper has never had any gauges. My Baja does have gauges. But it's not always driven offroad. Gauges not included cannot fail and cost no money.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Approaching a dune, especially a high or steep sided one, where the entering RPMs are going to be high, I take a quick glance at the gauge before I hit the transition and again at the top of the dune. When facing the dunes I am watching ahead, my speed vs. holding onto the side of the hill and monitoring the oil pressure. The same when going down a dune: this is where I would see most of the loss of oil pressure even if you are going down under compression, adding a sump went a long way to solve that but the engine had already been damaged because of the several steep hills I had to go down to get back to camp after the oil pressure warned me, well before the idiot light went on.

On jumping dunes: before launch and on landing plus some distance after is also a good idea.

The idea of a big red light is a good idea, mine wasn't and still isn't as large as it should have been but I made sure it was a bright light and set high in the dash.

[bikesndbugs]

Big news it went for a drive.!!!!!!!!

First 3 pictures are of the bumper and the bump stops. Ended up having to trim the droop stops to get the arms in because my beam ia turned up to basically straight up.

Then it went for a drive. Still have holes everywhere but it did pretty good. We were down a lot of gear oil so we took it easy. Its not bad with the 31s but my rear is sagging really bad to where its at like stock ride height and it feels really soft compared to how it was. Gonna fix my toe and camber today then turn up the rear. The floors and roof holes need to be welded also. Gonna spray the cage today too. [IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201707 ... 1d72cd.jpg[/IMG][IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201707 ... 7038bc.jpg[/IMG][IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201707 ... 896dad.jpg[/IMG][IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201707 ... df2907.jpg[/IMG][IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201707 ... 8e1b6d.jpg[/IMG][IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201707 ... 4c436f.jpg[/IMG]

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[TimS]

Congrats on the drive. Good luck on the fine tuning.

[bikesndbugs]

My friend claims you can get 12 inches of travel out of stock irs arms lenthened with stock CVS that doesn't make sense to me because the cv can only take so much angle regardless of the arm length. The only reason I could think of would be that that would straighten the axle so it is unsing all of the angle in up or down rather than splitting the cb angle between forward and up and down

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