4 Seat Chenowth Repair

Offroad VW based vehicles have problems/insights all their own. Not to mention the knowledge gained in VW durability.

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n8ball
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Re: 4 Seat Chenowth Repair

Post by n8ball » Sun Feb 14, 2016 6:55 pm

Steve, thanks for looking out, but I am going to the dark side.

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Re: 4 Seat Chenowth Repair

Post by bajaherbie » Sun Feb 14, 2016 9:26 pm

:shock:
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Re: 4 Seat Chenowth Repair

Post by Steve Arndt » Mon Feb 15, 2016 11:01 am

JUSSUMGUY wrote:Steve- i bought the engine back as the problem with the engine was more extensive than i had thought and had represented to Nate.
Basically it needs a new rod, perhaps a piston and the crank polished or turned. Crank is currently 10 under so is still doable if in fact it does need to be turned. Im not sure what im going to do with the engine. Perhaps rebuild it, perhaps part it out.
You can get a set of these in there, clean it all up, then sell it.
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDet ... tCode=1254

Sorry to hear about the Dark side N8, but it does make having a heater much more straight forward.

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Re: 4 Seat Chenowth Repair

Post by JUSSUMGUY » Mon Feb 15, 2016 2:31 pm

Thanks Steve. I'm pretty sure I'm going to rebuild it as there is not that much wrong with it but it will have to wait till I finish the subie swap.

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Re: 4 Seat Chenowth Repair

Post by n8ball » Wed Feb 24, 2016 11:37 am

OK well after a great race weekend, I came back with some motivation to work on the buggy. Unfortunately I am a little under the weather, but I still managed to get some work done last night. New wheel bearings installed up front. I had a bit of a wobble at low speeds, so at Cameron's suggestion, I started with those. The driver side was way sloppy and when I pulled it the outer bearing was a rusty greasy mess. The grease I expected, but the rust was obviously not acceptable as it had pitted the bearing pretty badly. I used some 1000 grit to clean some minor surface rust from the spindle. Off to the store with parts in hand. I replaced both inner and outer bearings and put in new seals. Both wheels are nice and tight now, and roll smoothly.

I also got a new engine adapter, flywheel and clutch on the way, and Santa should be here in his brown truck on Thursday.

If the weather holds out, I may spend Saturday in the wrecking yard pulling a motor. I say may because I have a good friend in town from Georgia. Right now our plan is to snowboard on Sunday, but if it dumps Friday, the junk yard won't be any fun anyway. So a Saturday shred-fest at Snowbird would be in order.

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n8ball
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Re: 4 Seat Chenowth Repair

Post by n8ball » Thu Feb 25, 2016 7:53 pm

Any suggestions? Do you think I can TIG it?
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Re: 4 Seat Chenowth Repair

Post by n8ball » Thu Feb 25, 2016 9:56 pm

I found the above boss broken off the starter as I was test fitting the engine adapter that showed up from Pacific Customs. I had a shop mate TIG it up after a little sand blasting and chamfering. Then a couple minutes with a die grinder and a file and it looks alright. Before it goes back on, I am going to clean it up and shoot a little flat black on it. I hope the cast aluminum weld job holds up.

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Re: 4 Seat Chenowth Repair

Post by Leatherneck » Thu Feb 25, 2016 10:56 pm

Good sized flat washer to distribute some of the torque might help.

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Re: 4 Seat Chenowth Repair

Post by dustymojave » Fri Feb 26, 2016 1:01 am

Shoot fahr! I ain't never seed one a' them broke afore...

Really isn't much of any room for a flat washer there though. 'D'-head bolt maybe, but not a washer.
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Re: 4 Seat Chenowth Repair

Post by Ol'fogasaurus » Fri Feb 26, 2016 9:13 am

http://www.harborfreight.com/compact-bender-38470.html I don't know if dies can be made for them easily but as Dusty said, pipe and tube are measured differently so the dies are different. Pipe is talked about in "inside diameter" and tube is in "outside diameter" so the OD of each is going to be different.

You can modify the shape of washer for fitment or even make your own but you need to do some heat treating of some kind because thin, workable flat stock is going to be too soft to do much usable work for you. http://www.ehow.com/how_4575979_heat-treat-steel.html

"D-head" bolts, like the one VW uses on the AC engines we play with, are OK if you have provisions for a nut on the threaded end. The D-head fasteners I have seen do not have hex or cap ends on them which is a limitation for torqueing :wink: .

A bit late but I hope the welding was done after tapering the ends to be joined. A good welder would know that but it does get overlooked sometimes in the heat of battle. Flat is good and slight bend or taper isn't always. Use a straight edge to check it out before you put a torque load on it... if you haven't installed it already.

I forgot to add: https://sizes.com/materials/colors_of_heated_metals.htm

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n8ball
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Re: 4 Seat Chenowth Repair

Post by n8ball » Fri Feb 26, 2016 9:41 am

Thanks for the replies guys. I chamfered the parts well with a file before they got welded up. I wish I had a TIG because I would have done it myself. I didn't want to hook up my spool gun on the MIG so I had my buddy do it. He really made a mess on it, and I had a good bit of grinding to flatten it out. Hopefully it'll hold. There is a little porosity visible on one side after my grinding so I don't have total confidence.

Note to any "welders" out there- When in doubt, grind it out. Don't add giant goopy welds over a porous pass. Especially when most of it is getting ground off anyway.

I'll use a washer to help spread the load. If I need to grind a flat edge for clearance I can handle that.

Foggy I 'm not sure where you were going with the bender link. I have that one, and it does not bend pipe or tube. For bending tube I have a radius roller and JD squared model 32 (not mine) in the shop. For pipe I have the HF hydraulic pipe bender, or as I like to call it, the tubing smasher.

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Re: 4 Seat Chenowth Repair

Post by Ol'fogasaurus » Fri Feb 26, 2016 10:21 am

n8ball wrote:Thanks for the replies guys. I chamfered the parts well with a file before they got welded up. I wish I had a TIG because I would have done it myself. I didn't want to hook up my spool gun on the MIG so I had my buddy do it. He really made a mess on it, and I had a good bit of grinding to flatten it out. Hopefully it'll hold. There is a little porosity visible on one side after my grinding so I don't have total confidence.

Note to any "welders" out there- When in doubt, grind it out. Don't add giant goopy welds over a porous pass. Especially when most of it is getting ground off anyway.

I'll use a washer to help spread the load. If I need to grind a flat edge for clearance I can handle that.

Foggy I 'm not sure where you were going with the bender link. I have that one, and it does not bend pipe or tube. For bending tube I have a radius roller and JD squared model 32 (not mine) in the shop. For pipe I have the HF hydraulic pipe bender, or as I like to call it, the tubing smasher.
That is the same bender that Dusty talked about but the picture shows more about the flat tooling he was talking about.

Good to hear you have a JD2, something I wish I had but just can't justify it.

If you have those types of tools in a "shop" then I am sure you can handle re-shaping a washer. :wink: I not only write to you but I consider the lurkers also so I sometimes get very basic. Sorry if I am confusing or sound if I am talking down to you or anyone! You get that habit if you mentor or teach for any length of time which I did.

Lee

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Re: 4 Seat Chenowth Repair

Post by n8ball » Fri Feb 26, 2016 10:54 am

No worries. My shop is pretty well equipped for a tinkerer like me. I have a 5x10 high definition cnc plasma table with 1/2" steel and aluminum capabilities. Millermatic 252 MIG with spool gun. Couple small welders. 2 glass\pottery kilns. Wood working stuff- lathe, band saw, scroll saw, table saw, routers, lots of hand planes. I have been in product design for about 10 years, and I am a tool junkie. Most of my time is spent at the computer modeling stuff in solidworks, but I tend to know what I am doing around the shop.

At work I do mechanical design on neuroscience research equipment. Implantable devices and experimental diagnostic equipment. I run small batch prototypes on a 4 axis mill. Some stuff we send out for SLA style 3d printing, but I am trying to get a printer for work. I am pretty sure that is a go in the next 6 months. We have a laser there that cuts and etches plastic and wood. It will etch metals, but it won't cut them.

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Re: 4 Seat Chenowth Repair

Post by bajaherbie » Fri Feb 26, 2016 6:43 pm

a friend gave me a HF pipe kinker and I eventually sold it in a garage sale! I tried it a few times but it was just taking up space in my shop. proud owner of a JD2 now...
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Re: 4 Seat Chenowth Repair

Post by Leatherneck » Fri Feb 26, 2016 8:32 pm

n8ball wrote:No worries. My shop is pretty well equipped for a tinkerer like me. I have a 5x10 high definition cnc plasma table with 1/2" steel and aluminum capabilities. Millermatic 252 MIG with spool gun. Couple small welders. 2 glass\pottery kilns. Wood working stuff- lathe, band saw, scroll saw, table saw, routers, lots of hand planes. I have been in product design for about 10 years, and I am a tool junkie. Most of my time is spent at the computer modeling stuff in solidworks, but I tend to know what I am doing around the shop.

At work I do mechanical design on neuroscience research equipment. Implantable devices and experimental diagnostic equipment. I run small batch prototypes on a 4 axis mill. Some stuff we send out for SLA style 3d printing, but I am trying to get a printer for work. I am pretty sure that is a go in the next 6 months. We have a laser there that cuts and etches plastic and wood. It will etch metals, but it won't cut them.
Big deal, I've got a drill press and a big fricken hammer.. :lol:

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